Checkmate Community Boating Forums - Blogs http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/blog.php Checkmate-Boats.com-A comprehensive website and message board for Checkmate Performance Boat owners. en Sun, 05 Feb 2012 21:29:56 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.checkmate-boats.com/forums/images/misc/rss.jpg Checkmate Community Boating Forums - Blogs http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/blog.php Bravo one , slow too shift into reverse http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/blog.php?b=115 Thu, 01 Sep 2011 16:49:59 GMT hi all, having a problem with my bravo one, it goes into drive good but has a 2 to3 sec delay going into rev?
well here's what I've looked at. gear lube,changed no brass no metal looks good, pulled back cover, looked at cam, shift forks, cone, gears,cant see a problem but you cant see a lot. cables, i do not have three inches on my shift plate but one book i read said to have three inches and another said to run it to the bottom of the plate??? i don't have a tool to check.
I'm thinking my lower shift cable needs to be changed just not sure.most cable problems show up on the drive side. i could be totally wrong. any help would be appreciated. ]]> R.Loren Taintor http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/blog.php?b=115 Fantasy F13 for sale/ Sweetwater Tn http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/blog.php?b=97 Fri, 08 Oct 2010 08:18:41 GMT Just finished project for sale, new motor evinrude etec 40 hp, fantasy f13, new upholstery , gauges, bilge, center mount gas tank in cuddy space. contact me at wlhcah@yahoo.com Got 7000 invested in the restoration. Just finished project for sale, new motor evinrude etec 40 hp, fantasy f13, new upholstery , gauges, bilge, center mount gas tank in cuddy space. contact me at wlhcah@yahoo.com Got 7000 invested in the restoration. ]]> wlhcah33 http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/blog.php?b=97 Searching for spare parts sportfire 110 http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/blog.php?b=89 Tue, 20 Jul 2010 13:37:46 GMT ................ ................ ]]> joniess http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/blog.php?b=89 Muskoka Run? http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/blog.php?b=81 Thu, 18 Mar 2010 20:54:04 GMT Will there be another Muskoka run this summer? If so i would like to join in on it. Missed it last year. Will there be another Muskoka run this summer? If so i would like to join in on it. Missed it last year. ]]> mattschaff http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/blog.php?b=81 Part 11: Filling and shaping the stern http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/blog.php?b=71 Tue, 29 Dec 2009 04:26:00 GMT It's been a long while since I posted. A few things have happened since my last post. I had just removed my Enforcer from the garage I was leasing and I decided to meet my wife for a quick lunch. All my power tools were in the bed of my dually and I left them thinking it would be quick stop. Well the thieves made it a nightmare; took all of 30 minutes and they had managed to steal all my power tools. What a kick in the nuts! I am slowly replacing them..... but hey, I knew better. Chalk up another stupid tax.

So here is where the ole gal is right now; I have filled and shaped the rear deck and stern. My last post had me rebuilding the stern and deck; now you can see how she's shaping up.... literally. I used Dynalite as my filler, a 2" putty knife and a orbit sander(one of the tools stolen).

Here are the pics showing the progress.



The Dynalite proved to be very workable; but, needed to go on in layers. If spread to thick it had a tendency to crack when drying. The directions were clear as to not apply too much at one time. So I would apply a thin layer; let it set and dry; sand until smooth and then apply another layer. It was tedious, but the results were worth it.







You can see here, I have shaped the block on the right side of the stern; the next pic shows the left side before shaping. The coosa was very easy to work; almost too easy. If not careful the sander can take away material too quickly.









Dynalite has been applied and now on to sanding and shaping.











You may notice that the inner/aft corners of the deck opening (made from the coosa) are radiused. This was intentional; a radiused corner will be much stronger and withstand flexing forces better than one cut to a 90 degree. Even though it will covered by the deck lid; I think it will give it a nice custom touch.







I couldn't be more pleased as to how well it turned out. When comparing it to the factory job on compulse170's Enforcer I kew I had it right. I only wish Robbie had aquired her before I had it completed..... probably wouldn't have taken so long to decide how I was going to rebuild it. I had to look at a lot of Convincors and then make my best educated guess as to how it should look.

Now the rear is ready for glass. Once warmer weather gets here, I'll be replacing stringers, installing the knees, and glassing all this in. Cross my fingers!

Next post will be on rebuilding the dash...... I have all the holes filled in but no pics yet.

Hope everyone had a Merry Christmas; and here's to a Happy and prosperous New year!

Hick

]]> Old Hickory http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/blog.php?b=71 recommendations for a budget paint job http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/blog.php?b=68 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 11:55:01 GMT
Quote:
Originally Posted by mkhammer View Post
If your gel coat doesn't have alot of cracks and damage, I mean if it's just oxidized real bad with minor scratches,
Wet sand it with some 2500 grit wet/dry paper and buff it out with 3-M super duty polishing compound, Then finish it with 3-M finesse-it or 3-M perfect -it, apply 3-M marine liquid wax.
If you can bring back the original gel coat it will be more durable than any paint job you could put on it with tight budget and it will look good too.

I sell all that you could want and more, You can check it out

http://www.boatingstore.com/us/MKHam...ers-c3633.html

I sell Interlux paint too


MKHammer
Here is another page with more products, I recommend browsing all pages in this area from the side menu, there are many more products to choose from. http://www.boatingstore.com/us/MKHam...pound&cat=3633 ]]> mkhammer http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/blog.php?b=68 Control cable replacement tip http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/blog.php?b=58 Mon, 07 Sep 2009 20:54:51 GMT It can be a tough job in some boats to replace a control cable. especially if it follows the same route as other wires, cables ect.
I use a method in my shop that really works.
First I get both ends of the cable loose ready to pull out. Then I tape a 1/8" poly pull rope to the opposite end I am pulling.
Then I pull the cable out pull rope following. Once the cable is pulled out I cut the rope off and tape it to the end of the new cable. Tape about 6" of rope solid overlapping the the new cable. Then Pull the new cable through you may have to push too, A second person comes in handy for this.(You electricians know what 'm talking about) The new cable will follow the same route that the old cable was placed. This works well for steering cables,throttle and shift cables . You don't know how much easier this makes it unless you tried to do it with out a pull rope.
by MkHammer ]]> mkhammer http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/blog.php?b=58 Part 10: Stearn rebuild.....My enforcers butt lift! http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/blog.php?b=32 Fri, 14 Nov 2008 22:35:53 GMT Finally got around to rebuilding the stearn of the Enforcer. As you can see later she'll begin to shape up and look very similar to a inboard Convincor. First step was to clean up the splashwell cutout. I cut up to the bottom line of my original level line(I left about a inch below the line just in case). I then sanded the edge and the surface down to the gel. These pics show what she looked like after I was finished. See my "Loosin the caboose" post for before pics.





The next step was to make my patterns for the deck cut out and the rest of the transom. The deck was fairly simple; I laid a large piece of refrigerator cardboard on top of the splashwell and traced around the edge. Once I cut it out I divided it into equal halves. This was because the sides of the splash well taper in slightly as they go down; so once I glued my support blocks in; I could then overlap the two halves and have a perfect pattern.

The top portion of the transom where it meets the canted edge of the deck was a bit trickier. It needed two tabs at its bottom that would overlap the skin from behind, and would need to be 3/4" wider on the starboard side. I took my measurements and then laid it out on another piece of cardboard using a framing square and a chaulk line. Much like I would lay out a subfloor. My youngest son then helped me snap the lines and we cut it out. Here are the pics of the end result.



Once the patterns were completed it was time to to cut the support braces for the stearn and the deck. These were 2"x1" blocks cut from a 3/4" piece of coosa. I took the previous measurements I made from when I cut out the splash well and re-established them at this point.

Note here...When doing a rebuild, meticulous measurements are a must when trying to duplicate what you have removed; and even more important if you are building new structures that were not part of the original boat. I'm glad I took the advice from the forum members here; and did just that.


I prepped the blocks by wiping them with a damp surgical towel; and then applied PL Premium.





I pressed three braces on top of the transom allowing for the 3/4" coosa I would be using. There was no need to clamp them due to the fact that they were resting on top and wouldn't move as long as they were not disturbed.





I then began clamping the rest of the braces around the perimeter of the splashwell spacing them evenly up to the the new level line.





These next two pics depict the braces that would be used to adhere the slanted portion of the rear stearn. I would be using 1/2" coosa. I also allowed for filler and glass when determining my setback. This was a guestimation. But it appears after the glue up it will work well.




Before cutting out the top portion of the transom; I realized I didn't have enough material for one long piece....so I scarfed the length together using PL and a support block in the back. This was done prior to installation. As you can see it worked very well and the joint is stronger than the coosa itself.

The next few pics depict the top transom board after it was glued in using PL. The tabs needed some material removed to thin them down abit. Overall I was very pleased with the installation.










Next I had to devise a asthetically pleasing transition from the top rear deck and the stearn itself. The stearn and deck of most Checkmate outboards; port and starboard;extend past the flat surface of the transom slightly; tapering to the center. I cut 2 blocks approximately 2"x7" from 3/4" coosa. These were glued and clamped w/ PL and will be sanded and finished w/ filler to form a tapered transition from the deck edge to the transom. Much like the faux strake tapers just below them.







next I installed the slanting portion of the stearn where it will junction with the deck. I used 1/2" coosa for this installation. PL and hand clamps were also used.



Now it was time to cut and fit the rear deck opening. As you can see the pattern overlapped nicely.

The deck and opening were made with 1/2" coosa. I also had to scarf a short piece around one of the curves. This was done before the final installation, and again, It met with excellent results. The next few pics depict the gluing and clamping and weighting of the rear deck.




I ran out of pic room on this post; I'll finish below. ]]> Old Hickory http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/blog.php?b=32 Part 9: Transom clamps and gluing/ bedding the transom http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/blog.php?b=31 Wed, 12 Nov 2008 23:00:59 GMT As fate would have it I have lost all of the pics I took during the glueing and bedding of my new transom. So the following will be a discussion of the process. If I recover the files I will post pics. But, before I get into that discussion I am going to repost here, The plans and and materials... As fate would have it I have lost all of the pics I took during the glueing and bedding of my new transom. So the following will be a discussion of the process. If I recover the files I will post pics.

But, before I get into that discussion I am going to repost here, The plans and and materials list for my Giant Jorgensen transom clamps.

Quote:
Well I finally got around to it....here are the plans; instructions and parts list for assembling your own GIANT Jorgensen type transom clamps.See attachments for the plans....they are a little crude but should be self explainatory.

Once you have completed them, you will have two clamps that will have approximately 30-32 inches of depth and 9-9.5 inches of width. This is usable clamping power So, here it is.

Tools

drill w/ 3/4" and 7/8" or 1" paddle bits
saw(s) wood and metal
tape measure
pencil
adjustable wrench

Materials

2ea 8' 2x4 ( I used pine; maple would make a stronger and more durable clamp)
2ea 36" 3/4" 10 thread rod
12ea 3/4" 10 thread nuts
12ea 3/4" flat washers
8ea 3/4" lock washers

Notes

* Be sure to use 8' 2x4's and cut them in half. If you buy studs you'll be shorting youself 4 1/2". I know it sounds moronic....but you guys can do the math

* Trick for drilling holes if you don't have a drill press...mark your 2" and 16" centers on both 2x4 edges. Then drill toward each other; first one side then the other. They won't be perfect; but will be fairly straight.

* The reason for the 7/8-1" holes is to allow some play so the jaws can clamp slightly out of parallel. This is important....if all four holes are 3/4" they won't clamp. I started w/ 7/8" and had to ream one out a little more so if you don't have a 7/8" bit a 1" should work fine. You can always take more out...but it's hard to add. I must also add that I did not use a 1" bit due to the appearance that there would be too little wood left on the outer edge of the 2x4...about a 1/4" on each side of the hole. 7/8" bit gives just a little more wood for strength

* Be sure to get the nuts w/ lock washers good and tight....and try to get them as close to the ends of the rods as possible.....too much threaded rod sticking out narrows the spread width of the jaws.

* Be sure to follow the "Assembly" page(pg2) exactly. The rear assembly "spreads" and the front assembly "clamps". This creates the fulcrum that gives Jorgensen type clamps their power.

* The The 10" angle cuts on the nose of the jaws are optional. I thought it would be advantageous to have them come to a moderate point in order to get the clamps into tighter spaces. Besides, I think they look better this way. Sand and finish to your own discretion. I didn't put alot of time in the finish on mine.

* All the materials I purchased at Ace Hardware and Lumber. Lowes and Home depot should have the same. Total cost for 2 clamps was less than $40. Hardened steel and maple will make more durable clamps....but unless you plan on building boats for a living....these should be fine. They have worked very well on my Enforcer resto.

* I will be posting more pics of the clamps being used in my Enforcer blog. Good luck! I hope they work well for you.


Hick
here are the plans





Here are some additional pics of the assembly and use of the clamps

Tools I used



Close ups of spread and clamp assemblies









These pics depict the clamping and spreading assemblies in use





When I clamped my transom in; I used 2ea 2x4's on each side of the transom to help disperse the clamping power evenly. This pic just demonstrates the how large of a clamping area you have.



Once I locate the rest of the pics I'll post again in this thread. Thats all for now. I'll be back later this evening.


So now I move on to the bedding and gluing of my transom.

This wasn't as difficult as I assumed. The clamps worked like a champ! I used pl premium to glue it up and then placed 4 2x4's (2 on each side) between the jaws of the clamps and the clamping surface.

Prep is very simple: before spreading the adhesive; I first dusted the surface with a wisk broom then used a damp cloth to remove any material left. I troweled the pl evenly on both the transom and the inside skin of the stearn.

I adjusted the clamps for the approximate width of the 2x's transom and skin( 3"+2"+1/4"); then used the adjustable wrench to tighten. One word of warning; once the pl is applied it sets up very quickly...don't get distracted w/ something else!

I clamped my transom in and then had to pick my son up at his church play rehearsal. I got back and realised I had glued the thing a little crooked. One side was about 3/4" higher than the other. It worked out okay as you will see in my next post; but it could have been disasterous.

EDIT: I found the pics of gluing and clamping of the transom here they are:banana:









I continued the bedding process by using auto filler. i had an interesting discussion w/ Kip Combs at checkmate regarding the pink filler they use. Here is a quote of mine from an earlier post on the "Overhalin" forum.

Quote:
Here's the skinny on body fillers. DBF(Detroit) and Bondo are identical in almost all respects. This was eye opening for me.

Their ingredients are:

Polyester resin
Titanium dioxide
Talc
Silica
Glass microsphere's
Hardener: Dibenzoyl Peroxide(red in color-this what gives all of them the pink hue)

DBF has automotive; marine; RV and construction applications.
Bondo has automotive; marine; home and construction applications

Bondo is marketed under a number of names and is owned by 3M. This is a quote from the 3M website:

Quote:
About Bondo

BONDO manufactures and markets automotive body repair, household repair and marine products under the BONDO, MAR-HYDE, BONDO HOME SOLUTIONS, DYNATRON, MARSON, LAMINEX and BONDO MARINE brand names. Our extensive product line has over seven hundred items including adhesive kits, body fillers and putties, fiberglass repair products, paint removers, plastic repair products, rivets, spray paints, super glue, home repair kits, undercoatings, vinyl/fabric colors, paint removers, paint hardeners and catalysts, clearcoats, primer surfacers, solvents, bumper and trim products, aerosol spray paints, undercoatings, plastic repair materials and rust converters. BONDO products are distributed through mass merchandisers, automotive parts retailers and jobbers. They are exported to more than 100 countries. MAR-HYDE, DYNATRON and MARSON products are targeted to the more than 60,000 body shops throughout North America. BONDO traffic control loop sealing compounds are marketed to local governments for use when installing traffic signals at intersections. LAMINEX products and compounds are sold to fiberglass distributors and OEM boat builders. BONDO MARINE repair products are distributed via marine supply outlets. BONDO HOME SOLUTIONS household products are found in home improvement, hardware, paint and sundry retailers nationwide.

Trademarks
BODY LIGHT, BONDO®, BRI-TOP®, CHIP STOP, DYNALITE®, DYNATRON, HOME SOLUTIONS®, MAR-HYDE, MARSON, ONE-STEP®, PLATINUM, PUTTY COTE, QUICK FIX®, SCREAMERS®, SINGLE STAGE, SPRAY SANDPAPER, TAL-STRIP®, TOTAL PREP®, TRUCK GUARDTM, ULTIMATE, ULTRALITE, WHITE FILL, WHITE LIGHTNIN', YELLOW FILL
I've also included some attachment pics of several Bondo trademark fillers.

I decided to use Dynatron Dynalite because it was cheaper than Bondo.

I hope this helps any decision anyone may have when choosing a filler. Just pick one(preferably the cheaper); Most are virtually identical and some will probably come from the same Mfg.
I ended up using Dynalite. It works fairly easy and has a quick set time.

here a a few picks of the inside of the transom after the gluing and bedding were completed.











Well thats it for now. I'll be posting my stearn rebuild. i hope you enjoyed the post

Hick

]]> Old Hickory http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/blog.php?b=31 New Checkmate Owner http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/blog.php?b=29 Fri, 19 Sep 2008 01:45:38 GMT My 8 month search is over. In July I purchased a 1994 185 Pulse with a Mercury 175 hp black max motor.The boat is very red and in great shape. It immediately became the talk of the lake that our cabin is on. It looks like new and at 60 plus miles per hour it is impossible to miss. We absolutely... My 8 month search is over. In July I purchased a 1994 185 Pulse with a Mercury 175 hp black max motor.The boat is very red and in great shape. It immediately became the talk of the lake that our cabin is on. It looks like new and at 60 plus miles per hour it is impossible to miss. We absolutely love it. I am 60 years old but still have a need for speed. The handeling is as good and predictable at 60 as it is at 20. Fantastic handeling boat. Thanks to Kip Combs for all of assistance during my months of searching. I had found numerous other Checkmates and he was there to answer my questions, confirm used values and compared different models and hull designs. I am from Wisconsin and the seller was in Central Michigan. I met him in Ludington and brought the boat back on the car ferry. It turned out to be a great experience. I am a very satisfied and proud Chechmate owner. Hate to put it away for the winter but looking forward to next spring. ]]> Ray Haen http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/blog.php?b=29 Boat Seats http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/blog.php?b=28 Tue, 19 Aug 2008 04:26:55 GMT FOR SALE: Two Factory High Back Checkmate Bucket Boat Seats purchased from Checkmate. Brand new never been used. Color: Cream with Black and Grey vertical stripes. $700.00 for two seats. If interested, call Rick 712-330-2951. FOR SALE: Two Factory High Back Checkmate Bucket Boat Seats purchased from Checkmate. Brand new never been used. Color: Cream with Black and Grey vertical stripes. $700.00 for two seats. If interested, call Rick 712-330-2951. ]]> frenchman http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/blog.php?b=28 <![CDATA[1st Checkmate and luvin' it!!!]]> http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/blog.php?b=27 Thu, 26 Jun 2008 03:37:29 GMT :banana:Just bought my first Checkmate, and everyone will probably think I'm lying when I say what I gave for her. She's a '78 20' Trimate w/ an '86 115 hp Mercury. The hours on the boat are only 1500, the interior and exterior look great, as well as the boat canvas and canopy. It came equipped w/ a Humminbird fish finder, new trailer tires, a new spare, tow lines, paddles, anchors, trailer lights are new as well. It also came w/ 2 new batteries, all for $500.00. I had to repair a seat cushion, a $4.00 fuel line and replace the bow roller on the trailer. I got her on the water last Friday and she runs great!! The previous owner bought it 2 years ago for $4550.00, put it in the water twice and decided it was to big for him so he stored it for 2 years. I will post some pics as soon as I can. ]]> jimbigler http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/blog.php?b=27 Blue186 http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/blog.php?b=26 Thu, 05 Jun 2008 00:47:48 GMT Hello all.....just picked up my 1992 185 Pulse BR,, 175 mariner that purrs like a kitten. I bought it from the states and towed her up too Toronto on tuesday. I am in the process of getting quotes for paint and a new intereor but the bare bones are great. theres no stress cracks or scratches on... Hello all.....just picked up my 1992 185 Pulse BR,, 175 mariner that purrs like a kitten.
I bought it from the states and towed her up too Toronto on tuesday.
I am in the process of getting quotes for paint and a new intereor but the bare bones are great. theres no stress cracks or scratches on the hull but the deck has been faded by the sun.
all in all my 5 year search has come to an end (finnaly) and now the fun begins!
Any help would be appreciated ( pictures will follow ]]> Brad Henderson http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/blog.php?b=26 Part 8: Building the transom http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/blog.php?b=25 Wed, 04 Jun 2008 04:34:45 GMT Finally getting around to building the first structural parts to my Enforcer. Once the transom was out it was on to making a pattern from the old one; cutting and glueing it all up. First decision I had to make was to determine what materials I was going to use. I initially was going to build... Finally getting around to building the first structural parts to my Enforcer. Once the transom was out it was on to making a pattern from the old one; cutting and glueing it all up.

First decision I had to make was to determine what materials I was going to use. I initially was going to build the transom out of Douglas fir due to it's strength and cost effectiveness; but was eventually swayed by several members, one in particular, to give Coosa board a try. The one draw back was cost.

Coosa board is manufactured by Coosa Composites LLC, in Pelham, AL. It is a high density polyurethane foam, reinforced with layers of woven roving and continuous strand fiberglass. Their Bluewater series panels come in 2 different densities. B-26 has their highest strength to weight ratio with a density of 26lbs/sqft and is 30% lighter than plywood.
B-20 has a density of 20lbs/sqft and is 45% lighter than plywood. This from Coosa's website.

As I mentioned earlier, it is expensive. Cost comparison to plywood is as follows:

B-26 3/4" 4'x8' panel $195
B-26 1/2" 4'x8' panel $183
B-20 1/2" 4'x8' panel $129
(Advanced Plastics; Nashville, Tn.)

DFir 3/4" 4'x8' panel $71
DFir 1/2" 4'x8' panel $58
(Nashville Plywood Inc.)

Once I got over the initial sticker shock and found some additional structural products that were actually cheaper than ply,(I'll cover that in a later thread when I get to stringer and floor replacement), the over all cost would not be too much different than ply.

So now I have purchased the Coosa and I am ready to begin the process of making a pattern from my old transom. Here are the tools I used for this part of the rebuild.



First I ground the bondo off the old transom so that tracing would be more accurate.





I made the pattern by tracing the old transom onto a large piece of cardboard from a refrigerator box and then cutting it out with a utility knife.



Doyle watching me cut the pattern



Couple of pics of the finished pattern





You may have noticed that I do not have the engine cut out for the splashwell. I have eliminated it and will be building the transom ala convincor style.

Next I began tracing the pattern on the coosa using clamps and a sharpie. You may notice in several of the pics of the pattern I marked "R" and "L". The original wood transom wasn't completly uniform from right to left. So I marked the pattern and my coosa panels to be sure the glued panels would be consistent.





I was able to get two pieces of my transom off of one B-26 panel; however there was a small area of overlap.



You'll see how I address this later.

Now to cutting; this stuff cuts like butter! I fired up my jigsaw, took a deep breath, and began...



Now many of you know that when you're doing the hot nasty stuff, the kids are nowhere to be found. But as soon as the power tools are out they are all eager to help.

Here's a few pics of two of my boys helping me "cut the coosa"





First panel cut, with the help of my youngest



All three cut and ready for glueing



Here is a pic of the panel that was the victim of the overlap. I cut a small piece to fit the gap.



This panel and the fitted piece will be sandwiched between the other B-26 panel and a panel of B-20. If you havn't figured it out yet that will give me 2" for the structural core of the new transom as opposed to the 1 1/4" from the factory ply panel.

Now it's time for the glueing. I chose to use PL Premium Construction adhesive due to it's lower cost as compared to 3M 5200 Fast Cure. I had found it was being used, by wooden boat builders on another forum, with excellent results.

3M 5200 was $11.45/10oz tube
PL Premium was $3.39/10oz tube.

They are both polyurethane adhesives with virtually identical specifications(see the attachments at the end of the post).

Advanced plastics only had 7 tubes of 3M and I would have to order by the case for any more. Lowes has PL on the shelf and I can buy it buy the tube or case; 1/4 the cost to boot.

I started by wiping down all the panels of coosa with a surgical towel to ensure a clean dry surface.

I decided that troweling the adhesive would be the most efficient means of getting it uniform. I used a standard notched trowel I purchased from Lowes.



I applied the PL with a caulk gun and began troweling







It took three 10 oz tubes to cover the surface of the panel. I took the second B-26 panel and laid it on top; then glued the fitted piece in.



And then applied the second round of PL and troweled. I used a total of six 10oz tubes for the the two sides.



I laid the panel of B-20 on the troweled surface; made sure all the edges were aligned; then placed 200 lbs of weight on top to let it cure over night. I added another 50 lbs after I took this photo.



I was very impressed as to how well this stuff troweled. A notched trowel is the only way to go in my opinion. Clean up was a snap using a rag soaked in acetone.

Tomorrow I will remove the weight and will begin shaping the edges and getting the transom prepped for bedding and glassing in this weekend.

Thanks again for looking!

Hick





I have to give alot of thanks to several members here:175checkmate; teamhart2; jallen355; compulse170; LAallison; wca_tim. thanks guys for all your input
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]]> Old Hickory http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/blog.php?b=25 Part 7: Transom removal http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/blog.php?b=24 Tue, 03 Jun 2008 04:45:04 GMT Well, it's been awhile but I've actually moved along; I tackled the the gritty job of removing the transom. This first pic is of a core I removed early on which told me right away that the transom would have to come out.



I started first by trying to select the right cutting tools. The first was a metal cuting blade for my grinder.



The second is a metal grinding wheel; this has turned out to be an excellent choice. It does alot of things well.



I started by first cutting a checkerboard pattern thru the glass and into the first layer of wood.



This turned out fatefull for my cutting blade; it started coming apart pretty quickly. I then turned to my circular saw which worked much better.



I then began using a 2" wood chisel and hammer; and as you can see from the next few pics it was coming out nicely.











It was at this point I hit a couple of snags. First, checkmate used alot staples to hold the wood together while it was setting from the glue. These played havoc with my chisel. Three or four wacks and the edge looked like a tennessee hillbilly grin. The metal grinding blade started becoming very useful; it sharpens a wood chisel pretty darn quick.

Second, the center layers of wood were more saturated with water and it was like trying to cut rubber with a chisel that wouldn't stay sharp. The next pic demonstrates what I mean.



I was making very slow progress at this point and frustration was setting in. Thank goodness for spring sports and the pinewood derby. Saturdays were pretty much taken up by three boys playing soccer and flag footbal; and also trying to help all three of them build their derby cars. While looking at a wedge shaped car I got the idea that I might be able to wedge the transom away from the outer skin.

Several weeks went by and I went out to inspect where I had left off. The wood had dried considerably and I noticed there was some seperation starting to take place between the skin and the wood from the transom. It would be a couple of more weeks before I could put my idea to the test.

D-Day

Well now it's time to impliment my brainstorm. I first cut seven wedges; four that came to fine points about 12" long and three that had blunt ends about 18" long.

I drove the thinner wedges in first being careful not to drive them too quickly. I didn't want to run the risk of cracking the outer skin. Some of these pics are out of order, but you'll get the idea.





These went in on the right and left sides. I then started a larger wedge in the middle.



It was amazing; you could hear the wood separating from the glass; once the cracking and poping slowed I would begin driving a little further. I then began to realize that I hadn't gotten all the glass away from the bottom and sides of the transom. So I took my grinder and ground the glass all the way around the inside perimeter of the transom; down to the wood.



Once that was accomplished the wood should seperate easily the further I drove the wedges. I began two more large wedges on the right and left sides.





I finally had what appeared to be good seperation. I waited untill I couldn't hear any more crackling and gave the wood a good shove. She popped right out!





Here's a couple of more pic's





Now the transom is out, thank goodness, and is ready for grinding and replacing.



I'll be posting the the cutting and glueing of my replacement transom soon. Thanks for looking.



Hick




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