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The good The bad and not so good

Almost looks like a worm in it! I'm guessing that you'll be out for another trial very soon...

The worm looking thing, looks like some filler material that got dropped in the gas tank. This weekend coming hopefully.:thumb:
 
Robbie, I don't know alot about Dol-Fins or Bob's stabilizer but I think I would try this route before putting holes in the transom if you are concerned about rot. The Bob's Stabilizer only lists for around $60 bucks and it's a good looking product compared to the Dol-Fin.

http://www.bobsmachine.com/Products/transom_stabilizer.cfm

I can try the Bob's Stabilizer first if that doesn't help I'll put the trim tabs back on with a healthy dose of 3M 5200.:thumb:
 
I would leave the tabs as a last resort.

Many of the I/O guys on this site can vouch for the improvements provided by a simple prop change (when it comes to porpoising).

Also, I can't remember, but do you run a hyd. slider. You may need to get the engine up higher if you have not tried that yet.

I believe Randy was running the shaft at 3" below the Vee on the 2400.

HD
 
I would leave the tabs as a last resort.

Many of the I/O guys on this site can vouch for the improvements provided by a simple prop change (when it comes to porpoising).

Also, I can't remember, but do you run a hyd. slider. You may need to get the engine up higher if you have not tried that yet.

I believe Randy was running the shaft at 3" below the Vee on the 2400.

HD

No hydro slider, just the gil bracket. I'm running the same as Randy 3" below the vee. I've got 26P raker to try and buying a 25P Renegade.
 
Also, did you play with the trim much when you were WOT, or was the engine cutting out. WM always looks like he needs a bit of over-trim to really air out the hull on a 2400 and that is with a 4 blade prop.

I nearly always can correct porpoise with trim on my 2100.

I am starting to wonder if the stabilizer plate will even be in the water at 60+ MPH????? I know mine isn't, but that is on a lighter boat with the propshaft at least even with the pad.

Sorry to add to the confusion, I am good at that lately!:D

HD
 
Also, did you play with the trim much when you were WOT, or was the engine cutting out. WM always looks like he needs a bit of over-trim to really air out the hull on a 2400 and that is with a 4 blade prop.

I nearly always can correct porpoise with trim on my 2100.

I am starting to wonder if the stabilizer plate will even be in the water at 60+ MPH????? I know mine isn't, but that is on a lighter boat with the propshaft at least even with the pad.

Sorry to add to the confusion, I am good at that lately!:D

HD

LOL!!! Thanks HD!!! I did mess with the trim, got a trim guage to watch @ the middle mark the motor is perpendicular to the water or 90* angle. When I try a little more, you feel the boat lift like it's getting on the pad. Kinda of hard to explain but I can tell the difference without the trim tabs. I think the tabs help get the stern up more and stay on the pad.
 
When we talked on the phone the other day it sure sounded like it was a fuel issue that killed the motor. Glad to see it was a dirty filter, hopefully that fixes the problem. I would carry an extra filter JIC it does it again. That way you can swap it out right there and make sure its the problem. I would say that with beating around on the tank and everything else, you have knocked a lot of crap loose and this might be a issue for a couple filters.

As for the speed and porposing, you will have to cut the floor back out and knock out that concrete/led shot I stuck in there while you were sleeping. I have to make sure your not as fast as me:poke:.

I am not an expert in rigging but I learn every day, so correct me on this. I would not think the tabs would help get the hull out of the water more without a major friction that would slow the boat down unless the prop provided major bow lift. That would compensate for the tabs pushing the bow down while they were trying to lift the stern. With the boat not having a true pad to ride on will it still life out of the water like the padded boats do? I would try the motor fin and see if it helps before the tabs go back on. The tabs have pluses but ya got to drill and screw em!
 
When we talked on the phone the other day it sure sounded like it was a fuel issue that killed the motor. Glad to see it was a dirty filter, hopefully that fixes the problem. I would carry an extra filter JIC it does it again. That way you can swap it out right there and make sure its the problem. I would say that with beating around on the tank and everything else, you have knocked a lot of crap loose and this might be a issue for a couple filters.

As for the speed and porposing, you will have to cut the floor back out and knock out that concrete/led shot I stuck in there while you were sleeping. I have to make sure your not as fast as me:poke:.

I am not an expert in rigging but I learn every day, so correct me on this. I would not think the tabs would help get the hull out of the water more without a major friction that would slow the boat down unless the prop provided major bow lift. That would compensate for the tabs pushing the bow down while they were trying to lift the stern. With the boat not having a true pad to ride on will it still life out of the water like the padded boats do? I would try the motor fin and see if it helps before the tabs go back on. The tabs have pluses but ya got to drill and screw em!

I've got a new fuel filter,water/fuel separator, Bob's Stablizer and a prop coming this week. First I'll try the stablizer then a different prop and follow that up with both. The raker is a bow lifting prop, don't have a problem with that. While running @ 55mph all the water spray is behind me. So I might have too much setback and maybe that's why the tabs were added. I was hoping Wildman would chime in since he's had success with the 2400.
So that is what I hear rattling under the floor and slowing me down.:poke: I will say this the Enforcer sits alot higher in the water now after removing the wet wood, foam and the spashwell. :thumb:
 
Aren't boats fun? :brickwall:

Not sure if my 2 cents will help or not (I'm guessing not), but I've always heard that porpoising is an indication of excessive trim. That's definitely the case on my fishing boat, once it starts to porpoise I give it just a touch of down trim and she smooths right out. (Again, this may not even apply as the engine on my fishing boat isn't in a different zip code as the boat :D .)

Probably nothing to do with your problem, but I found it interesting that before I reparied my fishing boat I'd actually try to make it porpoise with excessive up-trim and it never would, eventually the prop would aerate and I'd loose speed but it would never porpoise. After I replaced the transom and stringers in that boat I picked up 4 mph, and it was suddenly much more sensitive to excessive trim - apparently with the rotted stringer the hull would "hook" at speed.
 
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Well, lets back up and see the changes made. think about all of them...brings me back to the trim tabs its gotta be it. You improved your boat and now you need to compensate for the missing tabs. personally i would not want the tabs on there either mainly for the reason you mentioned. My exciter did the same when i got her, and the thing took forever to get on plane. We are talking about 2 different boats but i put a whale tail on my motor...wow what a difference no porposing and the thing is on plane before you can say Obama. Ive never lost any speed with putting one of these on my motor either. Just my 0.02 :bigthumb:
largeimage-7461.jpg
 
Aren't boats fun? :brickwall:

Not sure if my 2 cents will help or not (I'm guessing not), but I've always heard that porpoising is an indication of excessive trim. That's definitely the case on my fishing boat, once it starts to porpoise I give it just a touch of down trim and she smooths right out. (Again, this may not even apply as the engine on my fishing boat isn't in a different zip code as the boat :D .)

Probably nothing to do with your problem, but I found it interesting that before I reparied my fishing boat I'd actually try to make it porpoise with excessive up-trim and it never would, eventually the prop would aerate and I'd loose speed but it would never porpoise. After I replaced the transom and stringers in that boat I picked up 4 mph, and it was suddenly much more sensitive to excessive trim - apparently with the rotted stringer the hull would "hook" at speed.

I can tell the difference with the trim being sensitive now since the resto. I could "over trim" to the point the prop would cavitate really bad and loose speed before the resto. Now it's very touchy.....
 
Looking at your pics... I think it may need to come up. With that much setback, it may be burried and making the boat porpoise. Got any pics of the cav plate running?

I'd move it up before I tried anything else. You have alot more SB than I do, but have never had a porpoise problem.

Boat looks fantastic! You did a great job with the resto.
 
Looking at your pics... I think it may need to come up. With that much setback, it may be burried and making the boat porpoise. Got any pics of the cav plate running?

I'd move it up before I tried anything else. You have alot more SB than I do, but have never had a porpoise problem.

Boat looks fantastic! You did a great job with the resto.

I don't have any pictures of the boat running, hopefully I can get some in the next few weeks. The prop is 3" below the vee, I'm going with the setup on the 2400. But you might be right since I've got 24" setback and Wildman is using 19" setback. I can move the motor up one bolt hole to see if there is any difference.
 
Yesterday I got my filters, Bob's Stabilizer and the 25P Renegade prop. So with the exception of the filters, I'll start the process of figuring out the porpoising. I'll add Bob's Stabilizer first to see if it eliminates the problem, then switch props, followed by raising the engine up. Hopefully one of these mods with fix the porpoising. Stay tuned.Thanks to Nick (NDaniels) for the renegade prop, it's in perfect shape.:thumb:
 
Robby, how does the B- stabilizer mount to the lower unit? Do you have to drill holes? Good luck-
 
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