Winterizing a 6.2 MX 320 HP

[john lamon]

So I dropped my Dads boat off at the dealer to get winterized about a week ago, I told them I wanted it done fast because they are in a bad location for dust and any time spent there means a lot of time cleaning it up, I told them the boat is kept on a covered lift or in a garage and does not belong outside when not in use, kinda got a funny look on that one but whatever, their yard is packed with boats to do and it looks like it will be a while, the place I work is next door and my car is filthy with dust after a few days because of the gravel road that passes by so I know it is getting dirtier with every day it sits there, I have tried to look online for info on winterizing but can't find any specific info on the 6.2, on the Mercuiser site all it says is take it to your dealer so he can hose you $350.00, I want to get it out of there so I can get it into it's indoor winter storage unit, any tips on doing it safely? I would love to have it taken care of by next weekend when they get home from Cuba, poor bastard thought it's getting too cold here now so they went on a holiday, too cold to boat, might as well go south he said, I would have waited till January, just saying...

 

[keith4216]

Is it a closed cooling motor? Im too lazy to goggle it. lol

 

[john lamon]

No it's not

 

[keith4216]

After last years mishap of burning up the impellor using the muff method.
This year I'm cutting the intake hose to the impellor and putting in a 3 way valve.
The fluid runs right down to the impellor and it doesn't have to suck like a straw.
heres the basic idea but I'm getting the parts from tha store for a lot less building it myself. http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=DP7

Run the motor on the hose till it warms up and thermostate opens then with a short hose and funnel pour in 5 or so gallons of antifrezze. When getting to the end of antifreeze fog the carb with seafoam till it stalls out. You dont have a carb so I don't think you need to worry about that. lol
In the spring change fluids and impellor.

Thats my plan but theres a few ways. I know you can do it yourself seeing all the other things you do. Don't pay to have it done.


I also find if you need to take your boat to a marina/dealer when you drop it off cover it up. Put towels on the floor and seats. Just shows the guys you like your stuff clean and they respect it more.

 

[atc250r]

II've done something similar to what Keith suggested but used a large funnel connected to a clear hose with a garden hose fitting clamped on the end. Thread the fitting on the muffs, have 4 or 5 gallons of RV antifreeze opened up and ready to go, start pouring it in as an assistant starts the boat and keep pouring til its all used up. Hold the funnel up high so it gravity feeds the pump. If you know what a "beer bong" is that's basically what you're making. I've done a few Alpha One set ups like this.

One other thing. I would buy a can of fogging oil and pull the spark plugs, give each cylinder a nice shot of fogging oil, and turn the motor over a couple of times by hand before putting the plugs back in.

Also, I like to run the tank dry but a liberal dose of StaBil in the tank before starting any of this is a good idea whether you empty the tank or not IMHO. No sense in having that nasty untreated fuel sitting in the lines, rails, and injectors.

 

[Problem Child]

I use a beer bong that my son (Frat Pres.) left laying around (bad idea) and it works great. It even came with a valve on it. I finally was able to take something of his and say, " Nope Jeff I have not seen that beer bong anywhere". I keep it near the mower so I know he wont be finding it . I have always used the green antifreeze for its lubricating/anti corrosion qualities and reuse it every year.

 

[hotdaddy27]

I pull the TStat. The 6.2 takes forever to warm up on the hose in cool weather and I am not willing to take the risk and crack something over the winter. My boat is in a heated gargage, but you never know what can happen.

Pull the Tstat, make a jug/valve/hose w/ garden hose fitting for muffs like the attached picture shows (I shortened the hose after taking the picture) and run 5 or 6 gallons of pink (environmentally safe) camper anti-freeze through the drive and motor. If it is coming out of the tips and drive, you are good. 5 or 6 gallons is probably overkill, but I would rather be safe.

I hate winterizing an I/O!!!

HD

 

[RNGRDVE]

Also, I like to run the tank dry

BE carefull running the fuel system dry. I have found on small equiptment that we used to do this to that this can cause fuel leaks in the spring. without the fuel in the system gaskets and o-rings can dry out and shrink causeing a failed seal. I would definitely recomend the sta-bil though, that stuff is cheap insurance against bad fuel.

 

[atc250r]

Good point Dave. Maybe run the tank almost empty if its got ethanol in it. Less fuel in the tank means less water can be absorbed. IMO the leave it full to prevent condensation in the tank doesn't work with ethanol. I also like to do the drive oil and water separator before laying it up. I've read in a few places to tape over the fuel tank vent, supposedly helps cut down on water getting into the fuel.

 

[Gimme Fuel]

Installing a ball valve on the main water intake line is a great modification. It allows for much easier winterizing and flushing. It also allows you to run the motor without the outdrive installed.

 

[john lamon]

BE carefull running the fuel system dry. I have found on small equiptment that we used to do this to that this can cause fuel leaks in the spring. without the fuel in the system gaskets and o-rings can dry out and shrink causeing a failed seal. I would definitely recomend the sta-bil though, that stuff is cheap insurance against bad fuel.

I have always stored everything with a full tank and sta-bil, already did that part before I took it in, it's mainly the water draining that I'm concerned about, just don't want to miss anything with -40 temps that we can have here, is it really necessary to change the impeller? it was just done this spring, it's only seen 35-40 hours.

Thanks for the reply's

 

[keith4216]

If it needs to be changed wait till spring. You'll know in the spring if its still good by the water flow coming out. They tend to dry out and get brittle when sitting. You can probaly get another season out of it.

 

[jln]

the 6.2/496 series share a similar impeller they last about 3 years unless your sucking up alot of sand the housing scores easily. check in your merc book . i had the impeller changed @ the 3yr 60 hr mark on my 496ho and it looked like new even bent back the splines still no real cracking ,but i wont trust one over 3 years. if your due for one i think spring is the best time and i always stored my boat with rv antifreeze (camco) to insure no impeller dry starts come spring and just for your info a complete winterization ( pull and service drive, oil&filter ,fuel filters ,fog & antifreeze ) costs 650 to 750 in New Jersey. i have priced 3 well rated shops and they are all close . i use the term well rated loosely alot of inconsistency in the marine service industry .

 

[jazzy]

John, you live in a much colder climate than these guys giving you advice. I don't want to step on any toes but if you get a chance look up the freezing point of rtv after it mixes w a little water. The way I was taught to winterize is to put your stabilizer in the tank run your boat till it warms up, this runs the stabilizer through your entire fuel system and opens your t stat, then pull off flame arrestor and literally spray fogger into carb until the motor stalls usually a few turns after w coil wire unhooked afterward. Then you pull the feed hoses off the bottom of the exhaust manifolds drain and reattach. Pull the block plugs drain and reattach. Then remove the hoses from the thermostat housing and fill until it won't take anymore. This will push any water out of your drive, fill up your block and assure there is no water in your manifolds. This should work for any motor if you modify to your individual plumbing situation. Also I use regular car antifreeze in the 50/50 mix I just run it out before I put it in the water in the spring the whole thing takes about an hour per motor. I have never had a problem w freezing

 

[hotdaddy27]

John, you live in a much colder climate than these guys giving you advice. I don't want to step on any toes but if you get a chance look up the freezing point of rtv after it mixes w a little water.

Very good point! I don't know crap about -40*F temps. The coldest it gets in CT on an average winter is 0*or maybe even -5*.

Ouch my toes hurt.

HD

 

[keith4216]

I was thinking the same today and forgot to check what the rv antifreeze is good too. I would go with Jazzy in those temps and basically blow every bit of water out of her then refill with antifreeze that can do those temps.

or put it on one of your loads and bring her south!


Just checked out the numbers and I'd go with regular (toxic) antifreeze in your temps. When not diluted they go much lower then the rv stuff.

 

[502GTX]

I have always done it like Jazzy indicated. I pull off all the hoses, drain the block and manifolds and then reassemble everything. I then remove the T stat and fill the engine until it can't take anymore, then run some anti freeze into the manifolds through the hoses. Sounds paranoid but I cracked a manifold on my brand new Stingray back in 1988 so now I'm a bit nervous. Oh yeah, that reminds me, if you take out a block or manifold plug, stick a small screwdriver in the hole, half the time there is a blockage in the holes, betcha water will rush out of one or two of them when you do it!

 

[atc250r]

Good point on the temps up there. The RV stuff is good to -50 but no point taking a chance. I used to open all the drains on my Dad's boat back in the day, now I usually just do it beer bong style but it doesn't get below zero very often down in NJ. I would still say use a few gallons of the RV stuff after draining everything and you should be fine. WalMart has their house brand pretty cheap I think.

 

[paulsboats]

they do have -100 below non tox

 

[john lamon]

So I was too late, got home from Iowa at 4 am this morning and they called at 9 and said it was done, should have called and told them not to do it I guess, was kinda looking forward to doing this after getting all the advice, gonna do it myself next year and save some money.

Here is what the bill says, I already added sta-bil so they didn't do that

Changed engine oil and filter
Changed fuel filter
Changed gear oil in leg
Ran up to temp and fogged engine
Drained block, manifolds, and fuel cooler
disconnected all lines and filled with Antifreeze, hooked lines back up
Repaired two missing tarp snaps
Greased prop shaft
Checked trailer lights and inspected/greased wheel bearings

Grand total $410.00, not too bad I guess for all that but I could have done a lot myself easily, didn't even know they were going to look at the trailer.

Supposed to get down to 20 degrees tonight so it's just as well it's done already I guess.