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251 Convincor floor replacement, anyone been there? Have pics?

V

v324908

New member
I'm going to replace the floor in my 251 this winter. It's not rotten or soft, it's warped upward, like mini speed bumps, under the bolsters and it bothers me. I've owned it since '01 and I assume the floor is original 1989. I replaced the glue-in carpet about three years ago and the floor looked great.

It seemed like it started two years ago. We spending a long weekend at a resort and a t-storm came through pretty quickly. We didn't have enough time to get back to the dock to cover the boats. It rained buckets (and hail) for what seemed like forever. A bunch of us were huddled up in the pool house watching the docks. All the uncovered boats with the bilge pumps just a pumping away.

My guess is the fiberglass/resin that covers the plywood had some cracks and it absorbed enough moisture that day it decided to warp a little. Once it started warping, cracks opened up further and it allows more and more moisture to get in.

I've searched the forums but can't find any resto's (with pictures) of an older 251. I'm pretty good with fabrication and fiberglass, I just would like a visual before I dive in.....

Thanks
 
I've down boat floors and transoms before. Never on a mate though! I'd like to help if schedules will allow it. Not sure I'll keep the 89 long enough to need a floor, but one never knows. Let me know if/when you might need help.
 
I did my 251 a few years ago, the center over the fuel tank is screwed down, odd thickness, the sides under the seats have to be cut, no a big deal, leave enough floor on the sides to be able to put 2x4 under to screw the new floor into before glassing in in, you are going to have to dig out all the foam as it will be full of water..messy but not terrible, I did not refoam mine...the gas tank piece I did gas both sides before installing. I also glassed the side pieces all in after screwing them in with countersunk screws 1st, make sure you seal the seat screws good as thats where the issues come from, sorry no pics...good luck Rob
 
V32,
Just an idea if your tank is good. A buddy did the same project on a 251 that you are going to do. After he tore the old floor out, checked the stringers (solid), he preasure tested and inspected the tank. And when he put the floor back in, he laid one piece vs screweing a lid over the tank. He did mark where the tank was on the floor incase he ever had to cut the floor. Is theory was the boat was more solid and less chance of water getting in.

Just a thought.
 
That's what I was thinking about doing as well. Doing it in one piece & glassing it. Thinking about the roll in bedliner material & top coating that. The carpets too hard to keep clean, feels horrible when wet under your feet & has to hold water in longer after getting wet. Good or bad idea?
 
miller said:
That's what I was thinking about doing as well. Doing it in one piece & glassing it. Thinking about the roll in bedliner material & top coating that. The carpets too hard to keep clean, feels horrible when wet under your feet & has to hold water in longer after getting wet. Good or bad idea?
Click to expand...
get Durabak much better than bedliner!comes in different colors also.
 
there is no way in hell I would not put the separate section for the fuel tank removal...my .02 just after you get all pieces in seal the edges real good, as for the durabek, it's great stuff, just did my engine hatch and surrounding area on my Gibson...works awsome but rough as hell..be warned...
 
works awsome but rough as hell..be warned... It is rough stuff...i used it and found it to be a bit rough they have one of those hook rollers to apply it which lifts it up to many little peaks.So i used a 3/8 nap roller and put another coat on and it made smoother. had 3 coats on it and the boat owner loves it! I would possibly do the deck one piece if a new feul tank was being installed.You will need deck plates for inspecting fuel connections and sending unit then.
 
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