Best tools for floor removal?

[Boston Predictor]

As some of you may or may not know (dosent matter) My 1989 predictor is getting a complete overhaul from top to bottom. Im starting with the floor.
I know that there are alot of people here who have done this and I was just wondering what tools would be best for the job. perhaps there are some tips you could all share to make the job go smoother. thanks in advance
Geoff

 

[largecar91]

A CROWBAR, A GOOD GRINDER AND A BFH MAKE TEARING IT OUT A LITTLE EASIER. IF YOU WANT IT TO LAST, USE NOTHING BUT QUALITY EPOXY RESIN TO PUT IT BACK TOGETHER. THIS IS WHAT I HAVE LEARNED AFTER DOING QUITE FEW OF THEM.

 

[Kary]

Airsaw around the edges

I cut into the top so its easier to break out

 

[cooperider]

Circular saw, air cut-off wheel, yes sometimes even an air chisel.


But I am getting ready to lay down some cash for a high speed, air powered, adjustable depth, diamond bladed cutting tool.

 

[Boston Predictor]

Thanks. I started at it with a hammer and chisel today. I dont really think I need to do the whole thing because the wood is still hard and even the foam is dry. I may just end up doing underneath the rear seat and bilge area.

 

[Blizz]

Cut the big sections with a skillsaw cut the glass around the edges with a small cutting wheel if you have access to one it makes it a little easier. I wouldn't worry about using epoxy on it unless you can post cure it it's really not much stronger than poly or vinylester your boats probably poly anyways. And you have noway of post curing your hull.

 

[largecar91]

I beg to differ on the difference in strength between poly and epoxy but I use epoxy because of it's adhesive quality.

 

[2benchanted]

use epoxy

I used epoxy from jgreer dot com and nothing but hd foam.I saved a good amount of weight and still have a ton of streingth.I was a composite guy for the army.I repaired 175000 dollar blades and was only allowed to use epoxy.The foam is nice because you can use a utility knife to cut your shapes.

 

[175checkmate]

Start in the center and work your way to the outer edge. This will make finding the line where the floor meets the hull alot easer. Just take your time and watch where you swing that hammer.

 

[Blizz]

If epoxy is post cured then yes it's extremely strong if not it's not that much better and as i said before there no way for him to post cure his hull. And to 2benchanted you were only allowed to use epoxy on your rotor blades because that's what they were manufactured with and no other adhiesives will stick to epoxy. Did you heat your repairs during the cure cycle?

 

[Mark]

Accurately cutting out your floor will give you a template to work from and save you tons of work. A small cutting wheel will give you the most control. If you are taking out the whole floor try to cut along the original seams. Take extreme care not to cut into the core. If you only need to replace a section, cut the piece out at a 45 degree angle. The new piece can be set in the beveled opening and fiberglassed right in. Polyester resin will work fine. That is what it was made of originally.

 

[Blizz]

2benchanted

When you fixed your rotor blades did you heat the parts? And if the part is manufactured with epoxy it's the only thing you can use to fix it as other adhiesives will not bond to epoxy. I too was trained by the US military.

 

[2benchanted]

yeah the blades from a blackhawk are epoxy but we have other composite panels that are made with aluminum honeycomb and s glass.You are right we use blanket heaters and heat lamps.When I did my transom and floor I just used hollagen lights and a regular oven thermo.Were did you get your training Blizz, was it at wonderful FT eustis. I am a airframe mech. I have since gone to flight school.

 

[Blizz]

I got my training while i was in the navy school was in Florida. Iam also a stuctural mech nowadays i`m working on fighters 18`s. That`s why i was saying without a post cure or regulated bake epoxy doesn`t gain all it`s strength. it`s just alot of extra coin that really not req`d.

 

[2benchanted]

yeah a cheap heater

If you go and buy a heat gun and use a cardboard box you can heat cure epoxy.You cut a hole in for the gun and then cut vents in the box to help control the temp. most epoxy is good for 140. You are right in the fact it does cost more but done rite and using good material saves a chance of it ever going bad.I would use foam and s glass with epoxy the floor is under load compounded by the amount of people and stress from the speed.The floor aids in supporting the hull. I sometimes over engineer stuff.I used epoxy, 2 inch balsa and kevlar for my transom.I have 10 oz on each side of the balsa, I also have some cut offs that I used for masive knees that whent all the way up to my back seat.:cheers

 

[Blizz]

My only point was that the poly that it was built with held up pretty good for almost 20 years so if done properly with that again it should last the life of the boat.

 

[breakin wind]

Is HD foam just pink or blue building insulation? Do you have to wrap everything in glass, or can form stringers with foam and just coat with epoxy?

 

[aqua]

Geoff
I always use a angle gringer(electric) with a cut-off wheel(the air cutters are great if you have a BIG compressor, but if you only have a 5h.p. one then it will be frustrating).
I cut along the original seem at the side of the boat/transom. You will find that there will be a gap between the wood and hull that is only fiberglass, this is the spot you want to cut at. As you get closer to the front you will notice the transition from the flat floor to the cuvred hull more easily. This might be a good place for you to start if this is your first time, and work your way back.
By cutting the floor out this way you can use the old floor for a pattern. I use a flat prybar to get the floor out in one piece.
I have found in alot of boats that the factory had multiple pieces of wood on the floor just so they could use up the most amount of wood per sheet that they buy. As we all know, when your fixing your own boat what's an extra $30, in order to eliminate a few extra seams or cuts.
Be sure to use structural putty at the sides of the hull where the floor will sit, this gives it a better bond, as well as helps distribute pressure/forces on the hull/floor. Then I always fill the gap left with more structural putty before the other cures. This will strengthen the floor/hull joint, as well as making the joint transition alot smoother for the fiberglassing.
As well I always prep the top of the stringers, and add two layers of CSM on top of them before the floor goes in. This will give you a chemical bond that is far superior to just mechanical alone. By doing all of this you are giving the boat more of an "I-beam" structure that is extremely strong.
I guess I forgot to mention to make sure you encapsulate your wood with resin(bottoms and sides first, you can always do the top after the floor is in).
Just take your time and ask questions. I use vinylester resin. If the floors that I'm taking apart have lasted 25-40 years, then I would say that doing the floor this way will get you double that!!
GOOD LUCK!!
p.s. Breakin Wind, you have to wrap the foam with glass. The foam is just acting like a core, the shape and thickness of the glass over it is where most of the strength comes from.

 

[85Predictor]

Hey Boston;
By the time you see this, you will probably have the old floor out!
I asked the exact question as you when I started.
I received many good answers.
After the big pieces were out of the way (using a pry bar; jigsaw);
I ended up using a tool that I already had. I bought some cut-off disks for my old reliable Dremel. It was light and easy to get into the tight areas out back.
Probably too big of a job for it, but it is still running!
I made sure that I did not over do it.

Good Luck!