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home made hydraulic jack plate

illMATTic

Well-known member
i was looking at hydraulic jack plates and thinking to myself, these are way too much money. i saw some old trim parts on ebay, motor and cylinder. i bet i could rig the cylinder on a manual jack plate to make it move. it would be a hell of alot less cash. would the manual plate move free enough to work?
 
i was looking at hydraulic jack plates and thinking to myself, these are way too much money. i saw some old trim parts on ebay, motor and cylinder. i bet i could rig the cylinder on a manual jack plate to make it move. it would be a hell of alot less cash. would the manual plate move free enough to work?
 
It's possible, but you might want to look at one closely to verify. For instance, take a close look at the CMC ML-65 compared to the CMC PL-65. A detailed inspection will show if there's any difference in the slides of each one. I can see a difference in the plate frame just by going to the web site, but I can't see the slide mechanism very well.
www.cook-mfg.com
 
well upon looking at them both i can see differences in the sides where the guide bolts are. i would think that if i were to replace the washers used with nylon or brass and make sure the guide pins on the side were locked in place, it might work. the cylinder would have to dead center. for what it would cost me to try it i might as well.
65012%20ML-65.jpg
65002%20PL-65.jpg
 
FYI... The CMC ML-65 (manual) and PL-65 (power) transome jacks are IDENTICAL... In fact, if you buy their ML-65 jack to start, you can by the "power unit" later and convert it over. Just thought you should know...go to the CMC web site for more (Cook Manufacturing Corp.)
Jim.

P.S. Overtons has them in stock, and this time of year you get 10-20% off and sometimes FREE shipping! I may possibly be selling the 5.5" CMC Hyd one off the Starflight for a 10" unit... if your still looking in the spring!
 
JRUMON

I called Cook to see if they could sell me the parts to do this they said that it won't work. So I bought a new 10" plate. Wish I could have updated the old plate it would have been easier.

illMATTic if you want to try I have a modified 5" ML-65 built out to 11.5 inches. 50$ and shipping and its yours.
plate.jpg
 
TCAT, what would it take to un-mod the plate back down to the stock set up. Is that the 1 piece plate? If it can be done, and its the one piece, I'll take it.
Zip code is 69301
Let me know what shipping would be.
 
Sorry 175checkmate it is welded on. No way to un-mod it. The previous owner did the mods and either he or someone he knew was a very good welder nice work.
 
OK 175Checkmate

I will have my shipper at my office tell me what UPS ground will cost tomorrow and get back to you.
 
My shipping department says UPS will charge 45.00 to send it it weights about 40-45 LBs and I am in Canada so they charge a little to cross the border.

So the whole deal would cost you 95.00 US$
 
Sure I will get out the digital camera later and post s few good pictures of it. It bolts right into the same holes on the transom as the engine did. It was a very well done modification.
 
Hey 175 here are the pics I haven't cleaned it up took it off and left it on the bench. The black on the mounting surface is the black silicone the previous owner used to seal the bolts through the transom. A little aluminum polish and it will look great.
p1010065.jpg

p1010064.jpg

p1010066.jpg

p1010070.jpg
 
that is a quality weld. you would have to get after it with a large band saw. if you were to try and grind all the welds you would be there for days. the aluminum would plug and grinder you throw at it. m a torch would take the jack plate with it. a sawz-all would work if you if you had a steady hand. i think you could find one on ebay for for the 100 bucks it would cost if you could wait a bit.
sorry tcat, i didnt try to bust on your sale. a couple beers and i can type like the wind.
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Thats a real nice mod. job. The weld penetration looks super. I dont think you could cut that thing apart with anything without distroying the jackplate. If you knew some good welder the box could be cut down to reduce the setback but I don't think it would be worth the time and effort.
 
You guys are right, who ever welded that did a heck of a job.
TCAT, sorry but I am going to have to pass. I think the set back would be a bit much for the trimate.
Cutting that monster apart would be a shame and a discredit to the craftsman.
Someone needs to snatch that up and bolt it on a 19-21 footer and let her rip.
 
Not a problem guys I know it will work for somebody the way it is. I am in no rush to unload it. Thanks anyway
 
It will work on anything if you need 10" of set-back... Your pulse would be a good canidate for additional set-back... Better bow lift, more leverage equals less trim which equals more speed...better holeshot and cleaner prop water too!
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The thing really have to watch is IF your steering/throttle/shift cables are LONG enough!!! 10" is a long way back and will it still fit in the garage???
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