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How to: Pull bbc
- Thread starter keith4216
- Start date
Gimme Fuel
Well-known member
Disconnect fuel lines.
Disconnect batteries/isolate switch to off.
Disconnect heavy hot lead from terminal on starter.
Disconnect grounds from studs on back side of bellhousing (one on each side of motor).
Loosen all clamps on exhaust hoses generously.
Disconnect merc 14 pin round connector from rear of engine.
Disconnect trim sensor and limit switch wires that come in from transom assy under engine. There are plugs on each. Be sure to mark these wires with colored tape for reassembly.
Disconnect mercathode wires that go to inner transom assy (if equipped)
Disconnect throttle and shift cables.
Loosen and remove both power steering hose ends from top of inner steering cylinder.....fluid loss will occur. Lift and zip tie lines up to keep from draining PS pump reservoir all over.
Remove suction raw water line from either inner transom assy nipple or raw water pump nipple....whichever is easier to access.
Use 1-1/8" wrench to remove upper nut on forward engine mounts. Do not touch lower nuts on these because that will mess up your alignment. If you leave these be 9 times out of 10 alignment will be good upon reinstall with same block.
Use 3/4" socket on long extensions to remove rear engine mount bolts on inner transom assy. These very long bolts so takes many turned to free from threads completely.
Now to remove bravo drive.
Remove trim pin bolt from end of trim rams that goes through drive. Do this with drive positioned level.
Remove six nuts that hold drive to gimbal helmet.
Jiggle drive up down left right as it begins to separate from helmet 1/2-3/4 inch. Note shift cable now exposed. Clamshell shift linkage should be opening up. You may need to wiggle cable crimp ball end for it to release from Clamshell. Once that is clear, slide drive completely out. Some fluid loss will occur from oil reservoir check valve but will end when drive completely clear of check valve plunger.
Now put spreader bar between lifting eyes on motor and lift from boat. You will need to remove hatch lift cylinder and either fix sunpad vertical (I ratchet strap it up to rafters cause it is a PITA to remove)
Lift engine out slowly. Watch for any missed wires or hoses. Put gentle pressure and jiggle hull to get to release from mounts under initial lifting tension.
Lift out slowly and move hull back and forth as needed to clear motor through hatch.
Boom. There you have it. 2 hour job if you are slow ha-ha.
Disconnect batteries/isolate switch to off.
Disconnect heavy hot lead from terminal on starter.
Disconnect grounds from studs on back side of bellhousing (one on each side of motor).
Loosen all clamps on exhaust hoses generously.
Disconnect merc 14 pin round connector from rear of engine.
Disconnect trim sensor and limit switch wires that come in from transom assy under engine. There are plugs on each. Be sure to mark these wires with colored tape for reassembly.
Disconnect mercathode wires that go to inner transom assy (if equipped)
Disconnect throttle and shift cables.
Loosen and remove both power steering hose ends from top of inner steering cylinder.....fluid loss will occur. Lift and zip tie lines up to keep from draining PS pump reservoir all over.
Remove suction raw water line from either inner transom assy nipple or raw water pump nipple....whichever is easier to access.
Use 1-1/8" wrench to remove upper nut on forward engine mounts. Do not touch lower nuts on these because that will mess up your alignment. If you leave these be 9 times out of 10 alignment will be good upon reinstall with same block.
Use 3/4" socket on long extensions to remove rear engine mount bolts on inner transom assy. These very long bolts so takes many turned to free from threads completely.
Now to remove bravo drive.
Remove trim pin bolt from end of trim rams that goes through drive. Do this with drive positioned level.
Remove six nuts that hold drive to gimbal helmet.
Jiggle drive up down left right as it begins to separate from helmet 1/2-3/4 inch. Note shift cable now exposed. Clamshell shift linkage should be opening up. You may need to wiggle cable crimp ball end for it to release from Clamshell. Once that is clear, slide drive completely out. Some fluid loss will occur from oil reservoir check valve but will end when drive completely clear of check valve plunger.
Now put spreader bar between lifting eyes on motor and lift from boat. You will need to remove hatch lift cylinder and either fix sunpad vertical (I ratchet strap it up to rafters cause it is a PITA to remove)
Lift engine out slowly. Watch for any missed wires or hoses. Put gentle pressure and jiggle hull to get to release from mounts under initial lifting tension.
Lift out slowly and move hull back and forth as needed to clear motor through hatch.
Boom. There you have it. 2 hour job if you are slow ha-ha.
Gimme Fuel
Well-known member
Ask and ye shall receive! I wish I could come to the beach. I think the freakishly warm weather is about to end abruptly here. Waaaaaah!
I may be heading down to Drop Top's neck of the woods in a few weeks though.
knarloid
Well-known member
keith4216
Well-known member
Last time i went out to play with the boat all the oil was in the bildge. I refilled it and ran it for a few looking for leaks but saw nothing. The next day all the oil in the bildge again. Running my hand on the pan I can feel rust. So I'm hopeing just to need a new pan since it drained every bit out slowly.
Gimme Fuel
Well-known member
Wh-what?
Top secret squirrel whirlwind trip. Going down empty and coming back 1500 lbs heavier if all goes well. Not for sure yet, will know more in a week or so.
Keith, that is probably the case. New oil pan and you will be good to go. Make sure you check what your cyl bores look like and inspect your drive coupler while it is out and accessible. Might as well do a water pump impeller as well. It will never be any easier to get at. Clean scrub paint bilge as well if you are feeling frisky hehe.
knarloid
Well-known member
Jimway
Well-known member
I wonder how much it costs to fly to the East Coast. I hear the weather is warmer there. Is it possible to pull the pan without removing the engine. I'm not that familiar with the Convincor. I have seen some installations where there was enough room to squeeze the pan by after dropping the oil pump into the pan and removing the rear seat gave enough room to kind of lay next to the engine. I have some cool mirrors to look through, wipe the pan down with some lacquer thinner to make sure that the pan is the culprit?
Gimme Fuel
Well-known member
Hell, it is almost easier to pull the friggin engine just to change the sea pump impeller. It really is not a hard job at all. Most difficult part is having means of lifting it. If you have that, can be in and out in an afternoon. It would be near impossible to get pan off in the boat. Don't think you could get it low enough before pan hits hull to clear the pickup tube and windage tray. Not that much room under and between stringers.
Keith, I am procuring aa nice stock mpi 502 motor to drop in my boat to sell it. Nothing major. Just worth the trip at this point to make my boat easier to sell to the masses.
Keith, I am procuring aa nice stock mpi 502 motor to drop in my boat to sell it. Nothing major. Just worth the trip at this point to make my boat easier to sell to the masses.
Gimme Fuel
Well-known member
Oh yea. Especially with iron heads and iron manifolds with front accessories. I have a beefy 1,250 lb rated stand and a fully dressed marine BBC makes it sag and bounce badly. I made a wood brace that I put under front engine mounts against the frame of stand to keep it stable. Works well.
I use an old 2 ton chainfall and it is an arm workout lifting them up! But works like a champ!
I use an old 2 ton chainfall and it is an arm workout lifting them up! But works like a champ!
Gimme Fuel
Well-known member
Yes, I would say that to be safe. Every bit of 1200 lbs from what I've heard others say. Plus 8qt oil and entire block, coolers, heads full of water too unless you pull block drains first. Lifting is not something to judge on the light side. My chainfall is hooked to a 12' long treated solid 6x6 beam on top of the rafters of my 12' ceiling garage bay. All anchored and attached to the rafters to keep from flexing. Doesn't budge or creek. Still makes me nervous having that weight suspended above my baby though!
I have the HD harbor freight engine lifting spreader bar that I got for under $40. Best money I ever spent. Makes it much easier with crank to level it out.