• Welcome to the Checkmate Community Forums forums.

    You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions, articles and access to our other FREE features.
    By joining our free community you will be able to:

    » Interact with over 10,000 Checkmate Fanatics from around the world!
    » Post topics and messages
    » Post and view photos
    » Communicate privately with other members
    » Access our extensive gallery of old Checkmate brochures located in our Media Gallery
    » Browse the various pictures in our Checkmate photo gallery

    Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

    If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact support by clicking here or by using the"contact us" link at the bottom of the page.

Mercruiser trim

SUPERNUKES

New member
The trim guage on my 1978 convincer does not work. I pesume it needs new sensors and or guage. The trim and tilt does work I just can't tell how high it is. My questions are what is the difference betwen trim sensor and trim limiter. Will changing the sensors on the outdrive fix the problem. and finally why did a earlier post say it would be much easier to fix with motor out. I'. hoping that post refers to working on the trim motor and not the sensors. Thanx guys.
 
The trim guage on my 1978 convincer does not work. I pesume it needs new sensors and or guage. The trim and tilt does work I just can't tell how high it is. My questions are what is the difference betwen trim sensor and trim limiter. Will changing the sensors on the outdrive fix the problem. and finally why did a earlier post say it would be much easier to fix with motor out. I'. hoping that post refers to working on the trim motor and not the sensors. Thanx guys.
 
wow..i can actually answer this one....
icon_wink.gif
ok..your problem is either the trim sensor is bad or the wires going to it are bad. The sensor is on the side of the outdrive and sends a signal to the guage on the dash. It has to be calibrated to be correct. The limiter does just that..it limits the trim while under power. Keeps the outdrive from coming up too far. There is some questions on whether it is really needed or not. The sensors are easy to change but the wires running throught the outdrive mounting bracket are a real pain as they are hard to get too and want to crimp easily. The merc book shows a few hours for labor. makes it an expensive fix as the sensor kit is $125 + labor. The motor being out makes it easier to get to and thread the wires through the system. hope this helps.
 
Is the limiter part of the sensors on the outdrive or is it in the gauge or elsewhere. Also it appears there are two sensors on the outdrive is that right. I already have the wires going through the hull what are the chances of me attaching the new wires and pulling them through. Thanx again
 
where your out drive tilts
there is a cover on each side one side is the limit switch the other side is the sender for the gauge

thay are about 2 1/2 inches round and 2 stainless screws each
 
sorry read wrong the wires are held in by clamp
and screw behind the gimbal housing if you don't get it back together it will leak water into the boat
 
your trim limit is on the port side of the drive.. sender is on the starboard side of the drive.. and they come together in the kit.. with instructions on how to replace them.. and how to adjust them... your trim limit wires will plug in somewhere around the tilt trim pump and these wires have two bullet connectors.. your sender will have one female bullet and one male bullet.. normally plugs in on the engine harness.
it is not neccesary to pull the drive.. and you will use the wires in the boat to pull the new senders in.. heres the trick of the trade.. trim the drive all the way down.. remove your trim ram pin (this gives you the xtra 1/4 inch you need..turn the drive all the way to the right.. and look above the ujoint bellows you'll see a bolt that will take a 7/16 socket to remove.. i use a long wiggle 1/4 drive extension.. remove the bolt and cut the old senders off on the outside.. tape your new senders to the old wires and pull them thru from the inside of the boat.. put your clip and your bolt back on ... plug the wires in on the inside.. and then do the adjustments by the instructions..

Note: alot of folks will say senders are no big deal.. the limit is a safety device so you don't trim to high wile running.. ujoints get ugly when the grenade.. on the sender side.. if the wires are broke on the outside of the boat.. your shooting 12v directly into the water every time you trim.. this causes electrolosis/corrosion problems.. i hoped this helped some..
 
Killer answer Happy, sounds like you have done this a few times.
Members helping members. This is what this board is all about.
 
Thanx Happy, You made my day telling me I don't have to remove sterndrive. My unit is an old pre-alpha (1978). It appears there are two bolts that hold plate. Do I attack them from the side of them gimble at an angle or can I reach them from the crack between bimble and drive.Also (please excuse my ignorance I'm an outboard man) what is the trim ram pin. Once again thanx in advance!!! After having and working on outboards for ever these sterndrives are a little bit intimidating. But with help from the board I'll get through.
 
the 2 bolt ones are a lil tougher.. your trim ram pin is located at the back of the drive above the cavitation plate.. its holding on your hydraulic rams.

i have a 2' 1/4" wobble extension.. (i dont know the snap on part #) you can use a wiggle joint w/ a lil tape to keep it moving so much..

with the trim pin out.. and drive all the way to the right.. slide the extension down above the bell housing.. then put your socket on.. and aim for them bolts... the new style only uses one bolt.. and i've seen quite a few of those older units thru the shop that the top bolt has been left out w/o any problems of water leaking.
 
Back
Top