• Welcome to the Checkmate Community Forums forums.

    You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions, articles and access to our other FREE features.
    By joining our free community you will be able to:

    » Interact with over 10,000 Checkmate Fanatics from around the world!
    » Post topics and messages
    » Post and view photos
    » Communicate privately with other members
    » Access our extensive gallery of old Checkmate brochures located in our Media Gallery
    » Browse the various pictures in our Checkmate photo gallery

    Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

    If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact support by clicking here or by using the"contact us" link at the bottom of the page.

thru hull exhaust

81 enchanter

81 enchanter

Active member
looking for someone that knows of a reputable place to get thru hull exhaust installed on my starfire. anyone know af anything?
 
Are you mechanically inclined at all? If so, I would recomend doing it yourself. The motor may haveto come out to get the y-pipe out, but it may be possible to sawzall thru the y-pipe and pull it out in sections, without yanking the motor. Then just cap it off. If you can afford it I would ditch the cast iron manifolds and look at a stainless marine setup, or a hardin marine/gil aluminum setup. After that just grab a hole saw to cut the openings for the tips.
 
well i am very mechanically inclined, i am a master auto tech. just scared to cut holes through the back of the boat. it's kinda like a sunroof to me, you get one shot and then its screwed. i would probally rather pay someone to do it!
 
Paying someone to do it could cost you some big dollars, if you have the skills, you owe it to yourself to do it yourself, and spend the money you saved on a decent exhaust. There is some room for error as well, becuase you can adjust the exhaust to fit by sliding the pipes up and down in their rubber collar-connectors. Where do you want the tips to exit, above water or at the water line? Mine are at the water line (now they are a little higher than the water line due to my aluminum top end shaving almost 200lbs from the rear of the boat making it sit higher in the rear). If you have them exit at the water line, the pipes will have to have an S bend in them. If you want to have them exit just below the belt molding then you maybe able to just angle the collars a little bit and not have to use S bends. Now I have a question for you - What kind on GPS speeds are you seeing on your Enchanter, what prop are you running, and is the motor worked?
 
Last edited:
its not on the enchanter, its on the starfire in my avitar. i havent had it out yet i just bought it. it has a performer intake, and a 23p stainless prop. the guy said it would run 64 on gps.
 
I know we were talking about your starfire, but I was asking about your enchanter becuase I like to see what other people were getting from their enchanters.
 
oh ok, well that one was pretty much all stock with a 25p prop i would see around 60 ish with it depending on water conditions
 
through hull ?

and plan on lifting the motor to get a plate on the old exhaust hole at the
"y" pipe cause you certainly cant see it ,
 
i think i have decided to leave it quiet, after going out this weekend on my buddies with thru hull i kinda like the sleeper i've got, quiet and fast!!
 
Hey bud, i had my Enchanter converted over to thru-hull exhuast last summer, sounds so much better!! I bought all the parts from SneakyPete including GLM alum. manifolds. I had a reputable shop do the conversion, after all was said and done it only cost me about $1,000 bucks at the shop, $500 or so for the parts...very well worth it!! And that inculded pulling the engine, takin out the Y pipe and adding the correct block off plate. Just food for thought!!
 
CheckmateFever said:
Hey bud, i had my Enchanter converted over to thru-hull exhuast last summer, sounds so much better!! I bought all the parts from SneakyPete including GLM alum. manifolds. I had a reputable shop do the conversion, after all was said and done it only cost me about $1,000 bucks at the shop, $500 or so for the parts...very well worth it!! And that inculded pulling the engine, takin out the Y pipe and adding the correct block off plate. Just food for thought!!
Click to expand...

500 for parts? does that include the alum exhaust manifolds? I've seem alum manifolds for my 350 at nothing less than 1200.00. How much weight did it take out of the a$$ end of the boat going to aluminum. Sorry for the ton of questions but the price got me excited. I have thru transome exhaust I just want to lighten it up some.
 
remlinger said:
500 for parts? does that include the alum exhaust manifolds? I've seem alum manifolds for my 350 at nothing less than 1200.00. How much weight did it take out of the a$$ end of the boat going to aluminum. Sorry for the ton of questions but the price got me excited. I have thru transome exhaust I just want to lighten it up some.
Click to expand...

Yeah that included the alum. exhuast manifolds, but like i said i bought the parts used (minus the tips) from another member here, SneakyPete, all the parts came off his Enchanter so they worked like a charm in mine! I would say they cut maybe 50-75 pounds off the boat, maybe more. The marina charged me $1200 to install the thru-hull exhuast/manifolds but that also included a new water pump in the outdrive, oil change and filters and a couple other little things, i expected to pay at least 2 grand so i was very happy when i got the bill and only $1200. The thru-hull exhuast sounds soooooo much better, there is no other way to go!!
 
I did mine my self, used a 3 1/4 hole saw and had 3" aluminized exhaust pipe from a local muffler shop bent into s's.....used 1/8th flax packing with gm5200 sealant to seal the pipes to the transom. Then put rubber flappers on that... exh comes out right at waterline. I want to upgrade to glm alum manifolds next year to drop some of the weight of the v8 in the back of a 17' boat. Alum heads maybe the year after
Also running a Holley 650 dp with both power valves blocked off and choke airhorn ground off---Huge difference in power and noise level over stock quadrajets and even bigger gains from 625 edelbrock
 
funny... I'w thinking through the same kinds of things... the back end of my diplomat looks just like dave's in the picture above (except it's black / metalflake and I don't have the ladder on it.

I'm going to drop the v-8 in here in the next wek or so and have a set of imco power flows with risers that would come out through the power steering assembly on one side.

I really don't want to go through the prop because of backpressure and cam overlap, and want to stay off the waterline because of cam overlap as well. I don't want it to be extremely loud either. I've decided I'm going to come out with short tips above the rub rail, about 18" outboard of where it would come out if I went straight back (like dave's rig). That would put the 4" tips on the flat spots on the rear like the one right above the top step for the ladder. The 18" outboard distance from the riser leaves enough room to pur a 12" muffler on each side. Add a cross tube in the middle and hopefully I wind up with a deep throaty v-8 sound that isn't loud enough to be offensive to most people and still don't create a lot of backpressure...

Will have to see how it works in practice once I get the engine compartment done and the new engine installed... not going to cut any holes until ready to fire it up.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top