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What to do next?

C

clarencio

Member
My 1973 Evinrude 115HP engine has not been run in several years. I am now ready to get to business with it. I filled the lower unit with grease.
I unfroze the cylinders and got the engine turning freely with a 34mm wrench. Then without hooking up water I just briefly connected the engine to a battery to see if it would turn over, it did. Hoorah!
Next (come spring) I intend to install a new water pump kit. Hook up the water earmuffs and see if I can get the engine to actually run for a few seconds. If that works, then I will back the trailer (with the boat on it) into the lake and try to get the engine to perform properly. Have I screwed up yet??
Do my plans for the spring make any sense to you??
Thanks,
Clarencio
 
Sort of . I'd pull the carbs and clean the crud out before it gets lodged in the jets and leans out a cylinder. Just pull the tops off and get some spray cleaner in a can with one of those twizzle stick squirt things. Hose the bejesus out of it and put it back together. Pull the plugs and squirt WD40 into the cylinders. While the carbs are off squirt some gas and oil mix into the crankcase to give the bearings a fighting chance. Turn it over a bunch more times. New fuel filter.
 
It might not be a bad idea to change your fuel lines on the motor too. From the the fuel tank connector to the fuel pump and the lines to the carbs. Not sure if you have one or two carbs as my 135 Evinrude has two. Anyway fuel line is pretty inexpensive compared to the hassle of cleaning the deteriorated fuel line crap out later.:thumb: Jim
 
Did you fill the lower with gear oil or grease?

Since you have already got it to spin, I would:

1. Pull the spark plugs
2. Pull the carbs
3. Pull every piece of the fuel system off

At this point i would spray a rich oil/gas mix in the crank case [might need to take off the reeds], quite a bit but don't fill it up. And squirt a little bit of pure two-stork oil in the cylinders through the spark plug holes. Crank it over a few revolutions and let it sit overnight, then repeat once more and let it sit over night again to let any capillary action happen

Then:

4. Replace every rubber/soft part of the fuel system tank to carb bowls
5. Disassemble the carbs, spray the heck out of them to clean them with WD-40 to remove the loose stuff, then soak all metal parts in a bucket [ in a can from autoparts store] of carb cleaner for a 24hrs minimum
6. Get a needle/seat kit for the carbs [gaskets too if the old ones dont come out ok after disassembly] and reassemble the carbs, being sure to set the floats correctly
7. Install the carbs and all other new/cleaned fuel system parts
8. Make sure the tank has clean/fresh mixed fuel in it
9. Take off the lower unit to take waterpump wear and a wet mess out of the equation [have to do this to do a water pump which you should be doing anyways]
10. with the the plugs in, ground the plug wires to the block, and crank that bad boy on the starter for 5-8 seconds at a time with the throttles wide open to get fuel/oil moving through it
11. put the new water pump in and install the lower unit
12. lync/sync or whatever per the manual and check timing
13. put it on the hose, and get it to fire off a few times and idle
13. take it to the ramp and get idle/timing set
14. LET HER RIP

you can probably get away with less lubrication before firing it but I would not skip any fuel system steps, fuel system is the issue with a outboard 99% of the time after sitting unless there are bad ignition parts from corosion
 
Yes do what you said you were going to do but rebuild the carbs first most definately they have dried fuel in them, and they don't have tops to take off. If they are green and crappy inside, clean them with OMC engine cleaner or Mercury power tune it disolves that stuff. Replace every hose you can, and I'm sure the fuel line assy in the boat is junk. Drain the fuel tanks. Also, after it starts hit it with somefogging oil right away while it's running, then after it runs a while, service it with engine tuner/cleaner or power tune, it frees up frozen rings.

Also, on the 73 model the choke has and automatic function which screws up, we got rid of it in later years. disconnect the purple yellow from the terminal board, as well as the two wires going t the sensor in the top of the block, the purple, and the yellow purple.

If you service it well at the beginning, it will probably be OK, those were good engines.
 
Thanks Tx but that seems like a lot of things to do that I am not sure I can do---especially since I just want to get the bugger going, then sale it.
Could that list be reduced some??
clarencio
 
Thanks bill, all of you guys mentioned the carbs. I will surely put some work on them and checking all those small fuel lines under the cowling. I did get a new fuel tank and a new fuel hose and primer.
 
clarencio said:
Thanks Tx but that seems like a lot of things to do that I am not sure I can do---especially since I just want to get the bugger going, then sale it.
Could that list be reduced some??
clarencio
Click to expand...

yes you can do as little as you please, I was just listing what I would do if it was my boat that I wanted to fix as well as possible.

Like many of us have said, if you rebuild the carbs and install new fuel lines you shouldn't have much trouble getting it to run
 
Its been a long time since I have been on. I rebuilt the carbs, changed fuel lines etc......The engine idles smoothly but when I try to goose it just a little the engines stalls. Any more suggestions ????
Thanks , Clarence
 
You were right and I did everything you suggested. The engine idles smoothly now.
But...when I try to goose it just a little it stalls. Any more suggestions??

Thanks Clarence
 
Try rebuilding the fuel diaphram (fuel pump). Its easy and cheap. Also ensure that all your vacumm lines are in place, and in good condition without any cracking in them. Also make sure that your carb base gasket is sealing good. If the motor is still struggling, see about advancing the timing by a little. Obviously do the timing after you know your carb is in good order and the carb adjust screws are set to a position that should allow the motor to run. Something like 1.25 turns from closed. Somebody check me on that, thats just what i could remember. Maybe google the carb settings on that carb for your area of elevation. If your problem consists then you are probally loosing prime on your fuel through the fuel priming bulb or its connections. A good indicator of this is if the bulb looses its prime. If it is old it should be replaced anyhow. New parts shows your buyer that you have cared for the motor and that enstows buyer trust and allows you to sell for a higher price.
 
Clarencio,

The adjustment procedure of the carburetor slow speed needle valves follows. NOTE... if the needle valves turn too freely, replace the nylon bearing retainer (the nylon item at the front of the carb that the needle valve goes through first) with the newer type RED retainer #315232. If your engine has that weird linkage that connects all four of those needle valves, the newer RED retainers will enable you to discard that linkage. The RED retainers make it impossible for the needle valves to vibrate out of adjustment.

(Carburetor Adjustment - 2 Slow Speed Adjustable Needle Valves, each carburetor)

Initial setting is: All (4) Slow speed valves = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Facing the carburetors, start with the top left needle valve, then the top right valve, then the bottom let valve, then the bottom right valve. It may be necessary to redo these steps to get the adjustments ideally set

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Do not attempt to gradually adjust all four of the valves at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

Another possibility is that your timing isn't advancing properly. Best of luck, Jim:thumb:
 
pick up

Double check the carbs, take them apart, take the low speed orifice out through the front behind the screw, squirt some engine tuner in there and let it sit for a bit, it still sounds like the carbs are a little dirty, these are only two jet carbs so the calibration pocket becomes very important, also double check the pick up timing and the sync and link on the cam, its a simple motor it will come around, fresh gas??
 
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