Pulse 186 Major Setup / Steering Problems

[Tompulse]

Hi,

I own a Pulse 186 with a 2.4EFI (non BP) dyno'd 3 weeks ago at approx 225hp (225Promax ECU). Engine block is mounted a offshore style bracket and a 1:1,87 SM) mounted on a 5" CMC setback/lift.

Engine is mounted as highest possible mountingpoing on the setback, engineposition highes -1. Bracket is mounted as high as possible on the boat.
Setback is minus 2 cm from highest position

Engine cannot be lifted more then 3-4 cm higher.

I spin a 25" tempest at 6300 rpm doing approx 70MPH.

Two problems:
A My steering keeps breaking. (Hydraulic sidemount, mayfair/latham style). Several (none checkmate) boats run these without problems. (they simply tear off, forces seem to big). (don't try this at home, it is no fun)

B Boat is still chinewalking, i.e. my treatment for this usually is: mount engine higher by using lift etc. At this moment I don't have fait the extra 3-4 cm are going to do the trick.

Combined problem. I think when lifting the engine even further, I think I increase my problem A as steering torque will increase by mounting it higher. I need to drop revs, therefore need to get higher pitch prop, which in turn will result in extra speed which will also increase steering torque.

The engine is really idiotically high on the transom. (looks like **** to be honest)... but need to get chinewalking out of there....

I am running out of options and can't jack the engine up any further and to be honest my wallet don't like the cost for the steering. (And I don't like experiencing the breaking of the steeringsystem, believe me).

thanks in advance for your responses....

Kind Regards Tom

 

[groucho]

You're right there are two separate things to work on here: First is why is the steering breaking and second how to solve the chinewalking problem.

My question is why was this rigged with the side mount steering in the first place? That is something that you typically see with a multiple engine set-up ( or a Champ Boat) and not a single one. I'm not here to criticize your rigging if you did this I'm just trying to be as objective as possible. But if you went to a more typical dual cable or hydraulic "Sea Star" type front mount I think that might solve the breakage problem.

A question? Exactly how high is the motor? Where is the propshaft in relation to the bottom of the boat?

Very difficult to solve chinewalking/ drive a boat if your set-up isn't right in the first place.

 

[Tompulse]

You're right there are two separate things to work on here: First is why is the steering breaking and second how to solve the chinewalking problem.

My question is why was this rigged with the side mount steering in the first place? That is something that you typically see with a multiple engine set-up ( or a Champ Boat) and not a single one. I'm not here to criticize your rigging if you did this I'm just trying to be as objective as possible. But if you went to a more typical dual cable or hydraulic "Sea Star" type front mount I think that might solve the breakage problem.

First of all I appreciate your comments, I want to solve the problem so....
(boat damn near killed me twice now, something I don't want to repeat)

I am somewhat surprised about your reaction......
I broke a Seastar Pro look alike first. I know of many problems with Seastar Pro in similar setups. The high speed combined with high engine mount tend to cause problems with Seastar Pro's as well. (this was even mentioned as a disclaimer in the Seastar brochure btw). To be honest that's where I think the competition model comes from (perhaps a little bit tougher then the original Seastar Pro??). (Btw the guy I bought my boat from killed one Checkmate with a Seastar Pro (the (original) bolt which mounts the steering on the engine broke (on new setup) (pulsare 2100 with 300X)).

I have seen many sidemount setups on different brands of boats single and dual engine setups. Particurarly for this purpose one sees a lot of these in Europe. I would like to understand why you think a sidemount should not be used with a single engine setup. I would think it's the most ruggedised setup a person can have. (should be unbreakable )

I have seen many boats with Seastars and the thing I don't like about them (including the one I broke) is that the engine is not completely tight down. (sorry for my english, can't think of the correct word). It simply moves about 1-2 inches without steering. A Sidemount is 'movement' free. (and damn expensive).

For all it's worth, it steered a lot better with the sidemount than it did with the seastar lookalike.

For your reference, the thing which broke of the steering was double or maybe even triple the thickness of the metal piece you mount to the engine with a Seastar.

A question? Exactly how high is the motor? Where is the propshaft in relation to the bottom of the boat?

Very difficult to solve chinewalking/ drive a boat if your set-up isn't right in the first place.

Can understand that. I will make picture and measure it up precisely.

Thanks for the comments!

 

[175checkmate]

Do you have a torque tab installed on the skeg? This will go along way in helping torque steer.

 

[Great East Predictor]

The side mount steering is alot stronger than a front mount seastar type system, that has nothing to do with it. They're used on single engine applications all the time.
I'd definately check the basics like solid motor mounts/torque tab/bleed the system/try different props. But to be snapping that steering something has really gotta be loose...I'd check every nut and bolt on that thing.

 

[fiftyp]

I can not speak for the steering problems, as I am not that familiar with it.

But I do have a Pulse 186 and I can tell you the chine walk is mostly in the
prop and how you drive it. I tried a couple of props that chine walked so bad
it would damm near throw me out the boat.

 

[groucho]

I guess my answer was somewhat lacking in detail...Yes the sidemount is stronger. But where I have typically seen it in SINGLE engine applications is primararily larger HP motors 275 HP and up. Otherwise the front mount type is more typical. At least in the high - perf applications rigged around here. (The side mount certainly is more expensive. )

What your problem seems to indicate you either have because of your wrong set-up OR something being loose there an action that is violently putting stress on that one bolt(s) on your tie bar causing it to shear off. I believe even some of the steering mfgs have disclaimers in their manuals that caution you as the which or what bolts can shear off with the improper set-up.

Try contacting " Wildman" with this one as he may not have read this post. He rigs this type of steering and Checkmates all the time. He may have some specific answers for you.

 

[groucho]

....Also posting a pic of what is breaking back there would help too. If the stress is transferred back through the main components themselves and they are breaking as you describe it's as though you have some bad " harmonics" going on. That's some serious vibration....

 

[Tompulse]

Thanks guys for all the comments/suggestions

I will take some pictures this weekend.
Due to work not able to get to the boat any earlier.

 

[fiftyp]

Work sucks!!!

 

[C-mate 280]

I have a Pulse 186 and had a 175 merc without the torque tab and the higher I moved the motor the more I experienced torque steer but the chine walking disappeared. Torque tab was the answer. My gps speed was 70 with that motor with only an exhaust tuner modification which gave me 9 extra hp.I had a land and sea jack plate with 5 inch set back.

I now have a 280 merc and it runs straight as an arrow as long as the motor is high, (prop centerline is 1/2 inch below the pad) . As I lower the motor the chine walking begins. I now have 10 inches of set back and run in the high 80s with the new motor. The 280 came with the sport master lower unit has a built in torque tab which eliminates must torque steer and has a low water pick up. My steering is dual cable and mounted in the center. Ideally, I would run hydrolic steering. Solid motor mounts help with the chinewalking but I didn't have them with the 175 merc and had no real problems.

The cheapest fix for you is get the torque tab, they're less than $20 and see if that eliminates most of your problems.The pulse 186 is capable of running straight and fast when properly set up- I am amazed at how well it handles with all the power I am running! on it now.