• Welcome to the Checkmate Community Forums forums.

    You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions, articles and access to our other FREE features.
    By joining our free community you will be able to:

    » Interact with over 10,000 Checkmate Fanatics from around the world!
    » Post topics and messages
    » Post and view photos
    » Communicate privately with other members
    » Access our extensive gallery of old Checkmate brochures located in our Media Gallery
    » Browse the various pictures in our Checkmate photo gallery

    Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

    If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact support by clicking here or by using the"contact us" link at the bottom of the page.

Possible stupid question..

S

SunTime

Active member
Getting things in order to drill and install my Vance J/P on my Pulse and I'm scratching my head here...:confused:

Why are the holes on the J/P a larger diameter then on the engine plate? 1/2" bolts on the engine and the J/P holes are possibly a 1'8" diameter larger. Why would Vance make a larger hole then the engine manufacturers unless there is a sleeve I need to use.

Also on the Pulse when I got it it had a S/S plate that bolts between the transom and engine. I assume I can't use this with a alunimum J/P correct? (corrosion issues?) those holes on the S/S plate are the same size as the engine mounting holes.
 
SunTime said:
Why are the holes on the J/P a larger diameter then on the engine plate? 1/2" bolts on the engine and the J/P holes are possibly a 1'8" diameter larger. Why would Vance make a larger hole then the engine manufacturers unless there is a sleeve I need to use.
Click to expand...

Did you mean to say a 1/8" diameter larger? I agree that does not make any sense. Not to answer a question with a stupid response but are the bolts the original bolts? Is the jackplate used? are the holes larger due to improper use or previous owner not installing correctly?

SunTime said:
Also on the Pulse when I got it it had a S/S plate that bolts between the transom and engine. I assume I can't use this with a alunimum J/P correct? (corrosion issues?) those holes on the S/S plate are the same size as the engine mounting holes.
Click to expand...

I believe you're correct. My pulsare came from the factory with a jackplate and did not have a SS plate. In fact, I believe most C/M hulls have a warning that if you remove the factory plate to install a Jackplate the warranty on the hull is void. Corrosion would explain why one would remove the plate. However, Vance does sell an aluminum plate. I do not have one on my pulsare, but after seeing that....I'm considering it.

just my 2 cents.
 
It's a brand new J/P. The holes look to be 5/8" or 9/16" on both the hull and engine side of it. On the Etec I bought the holes and bolts suppiled with it, are 1/2"

I have no issue using larger boats to secure the J/P to the transom but what do I do about where the engine it's self bolts up to the J/P? No way those mounting bolts on the Etec are larger then 1/2"..
 
Can't answer the hole size question, but definitely leave the SS plate on the transom. Any boat that I've worked engine and setback I've added an aluminum or SS plate to protect the transom. Think of it as a big fender washer
 
I would not use 5/8" bolts because you would have to drill the transom to a non-standard size. Check the holes in the plate with a caliper. If they are really 5/8" I would call Vance and ask why. If they are just slightly larger it probably will not have any negative effect and may be just be to provide a slightly higher tolerance on mis-drilled transom holes.
 
I still can't understand why the guy who installed my 6" hydraulic CMC was insistent that original SS plate needed to come off?? Also still have that same original sticker on the boat that says "warranty void if plate removed for jackplate".

Never inquired as to exactly why it was removed, just figured he knew best. Now I'm wondering...
 
BagMan said:
I still can't understand why the guy who installed my 6" hydraulic CMC was insistent that original SS plate needed to come off?? Also still have that same original sticker on the boat that says "warranty void if plate removed for jackplate".

Never inquired as to exactly why it was removed, just figured he knew best. Now I'm wondering...
Click to expand...

I too am confused. My boat came from the factory with a jackplate...no SS plate underneath. I just spent some time on eBay looking at checkmates and there's a brand new 2400BR with a 300XS and a Jackplate...no SS plate under that either. What gives?
 
As suggested you need to call the maker of your jackplate and ask these questions, They will tell you the recommended way to install it correctly. They should have a tech line.
 
Spoke with Vance Mfg this morning and they did go to what amounts to slightly larger diameter holes (slightly larger then 1/16") because of issues with others lining up the plate to transoms when drilling new transoms without a jig. It's a non issue.
He also stated TO USE the S/S plate with the J/P as others here say to.

Thanks all for your help!
 
I just installed a Vance jackplate for a friend. The holes were industry standard 1/32" oversized. (.531) The bolts slid thru the holes real clean
not sloppy. I can't answer why yours are so sloppy. As a person that has been in the fabrication field for over 40 years I would be cautious using
something with holes that are that sloppy. It makes it harder to line the plate and motor perpendicular to the bottom of the hull. If the motor is out of position it could give you an adverse handling condition.

Just my opinion.
 
I forgot to mention that when Vance bolted the jackplate assembly
together it wasn't square. I loosened the assembly squared it up
and it lined up with the transom holes.
Maybe the factory got carried away to make it easier for the installers,
to make the plate installation easier. Who knows?
 
Also on the Pulse when I got it it had a S/S plate that bolts between the transom and engine. I assume I can't use this with a alunimum J/P correct? (corrosion issues?)
Click to expand...

OK, I'm jumping onto this thread a little late, but as long as the zinc anode on your outboard's lower unit is there you won't have an issue. That's something that should be checked from time to time.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top