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Is it ever going to stop?

TJindy280

Member
I bought the boat on Monday and brought it home and started working on getting the bad gas out of it that had been in there for 2 years; mission accomplished Thursday night! Go fill 'er up after buttoning everything back up, fired it and ran what little was left in the lines out. Great! :)

We decide to take her to the lake today (Friday) since it got pretty nice out and I was anxious to start getting it broke in. The motor was a fresh rebuild in the fall of '08 (.060 over 502, edelbrock heads with a roller setup, some good stuff in the short block to stay together under the stress of the procharger)...to never see a lake in '09.

So out we go, undoing the front tie down turnbuckle that hasn't been loosened in about 2 years, stuck, rusted some, yeah...boom, she broke into two pieces! NO big deal, I will just get another one. Fine

Now, the gentlemen (Bill Shumaker, INDY) who built the motor got a call from me on our way down to the lake to see how he wanted to see this motor broke in. He told me to watch the fuel pressure at the time it goes into positive boost to make sure the fuel pressure jumps about 20 psi. Also, the usual, don't let it idle forever, don't just hammer it, power the thing up and down from time to time, got it.

So out of the cove we go, get it up on plane, its acting goofy leaning to the left with both plates all the way up (figure that one out later), down to the dam a 1/4 mile down, U-turn back up to the big part of the lake and start pushing it up past "0" on the boost gauge. Watching the fuel pressure, actually staring at it, I watch it go from 45 psi to 0 in the blink of an eye! Sputtered, coughed, lost power, and then eventually dying. WTF!!! :confused: Tried to start it again, third try it hits some to die again. Raise the hatch to investigate; all of "my" fuel put backs are dry and good. So I try it again, same thing, doesn't want to run. So, I look again, UH OH, the well under the motor is filled with gas, guessing about 3 or 4 gallons worth. I remembered then hearing a squirt and splashing sounds as it hit the key time after time. So obviously a leak somewhere, but could not see a thing, it was in the back I'm assuming; everything up front was dry and good. I wished I knew where it was coming from. Shut everthing down 'cause I really don't feel like blowing this new boat of mine up! We start drifting across the lake since it was such a WINDY ass day. There is hardly a soul on this lake!!!!! (Monroe) Finally got a tow to the ramp, to try and fight this thing by hand, in 25 mph winds and get it loaded by hand in cold ass water! :irked: One big scuff mark from the dock, soaking wet, cold and pissed :pissed: it's on. No front tiedown.

Get it in the driveway, I'm late to my daughters softball game, go there and come back. I need to wash/rinse the well out from all that gas. So my son and I go out to do that and put the cover on since it is going to rain tonight. I hit the button on the hatch and heard something pop, Yep that's it, she's not coming up. How the hell do you get that thing up? Screw it, put the cover on it, get a beer :cheers:and we will look for a better day tomorrow.


Shumaker said he will look at the fuel issue when I get it to him. Any ideas out there, I'm assuming something around the fuel rail in the back, but what?

How do you get the hatch up when something goes wrong with the lift motor?

This is what happens when you let things sit !
 
Wow... glad that you didn't go up in flames, man. That could have been bad.

For the hatch, is there a access hole underneath the sunpad like on my 24SB? Somtimes you can get it to raise a few inches by lifting by hand, some of em have a little play. Once you get in there, the fuel issue should be pretty obvious hopefully.

How bad is the scuff mark? Hopefully it'll be easy to buff out.


Its amazing how many of us are having bad luck this year on maiden voyages!
 
Their is no way possible on my old 242 to get the hatch up if the hatch motor died. Unless you rip off the back seat which was bolted on from inside the hatch.

Fuel leak could be a number of things. The way it sounds a hose popped off or broke. Because you had fuel and the boat ran fine then you lost fuel pressure and fuel got dumped in the bilge all at once.

Sitting did not cause these problems, previous owner neglect did. Word of advice every-time I came back from the lake I loosened both rear straps and front strap on the boat. For two reasons it saved the straps and kept tension of the boat and trailer bunks.
 
i agree with red about opening the hatch i have a 242 and it doesnt open unless there is power to the pump im pretty sure there is an inline fuse for the hatch under the back seat with the batteries if yours are located there
 
I will look for the fuse, I figured there has to be one somewhere. There is no clicking of any sorts when I hit the switch. One interesting note, when I do hit the switch, the lights for the two after market gauges light up!!??!!??? I'm sure I'm not the first one for this to happen to with the hatch. Maybe some one has come up with an ingenious way to get the hatch opened when or if the motor goes bad?
 
i agree with red about opening the hatch i have a 242 and it doesnt open unless there is power to the pump im pretty sure there is an inline fuse for the hatch under the back seat with the batteries if yours are located there

Yes on the 242 the fuse for the hatch lift comes off the battery right at the battery. Sometimes the fuse holder will get corrosion on it and not make contact. On a 99 ZT things could be different
 
I will look for the fuse, I figured there has to be one somewhere. There is no clicking of any sorts when I hit the switch. One interesting note, when I do hit the switch, the lights for the two after market gauges light up!!??!!??? I'm sure I'm not the first one for this to happen to with the hatch. Maybe some one has come up with an ingenious way to get the hatch opened when or if the motor goes bad?

I sat in my boat in the the shop with a 12 pack one night trying to figure out how to open that hatch if the motor died.

The only way to open the hatch on a 242 Convincor is rip the top half of the back seat off,, which is bolted on from inside the hatch. If anybody has a better idea on a 242 or later years the 260 I am up for a good argument. Just for Ha Ha's
 
My 300 has a cable hooked to the pin on the end of the lift.It runs over to the vent. If the lift doesn't work i can pull the cable to remove the pin and lift the hatch manually.
 
My 300 has a cable hooked to the pin on the end of the lift.It runs over to the vent. If the lift doesn't work i can pull the cable to remove the pin and lift the hatch manually.
With my luck, I would pull the cable and it would break leaving the pin still holding the lift:brickwall:. I also have wondered "what if". I got a trusty 2x4 for mine till I break down and buy the struts:thumb:
 
Hatch Release Cable

On my 25' convincor gtx there is a release cable that runs up next to the drivers seat.


Keith, Do you have a picture of the end of the cable near the drivers seat and where the cable attaches to the brackett at the top of the ram. Recently purchased a 260 Enforcer and the cable was disconnected when I got it. Been scratching my head trying to figure it out for 2 weeks now.

Thanks
Kevin
 
I will attempt to post some tommorow. Its about to storm now and I dont want to get caught uncovered.
Keith
 
wow that really sucks man.. i hope thats not the case with my first outing...

i know you dont wanna hear it but i hope you didnt damage anything by running extremely lean.
 
I put a quick release pin on the hatch side of mine that I can reach thru the scoop...knew that hole was good for something !!!
 
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