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Winter projects

wired

Well-known member
I'm in the middle of my winter update projects for the old Enticer. Trying to break 80 MPH this summer. Heres a rundown...

1. I pulled the 2.0 150 powerhead off the mid . Picked up a 2.5/200 block from a member on the site here and sent it over to Jim Ruck for porting to 225 Pro Max specs. He added rod slot porting into the transfer ports and I'm guessing it will be good for at least 225-230 HP with carbs. I was originally going to run with EFI until I started looking around at the EFI motors out there and noticed a definite pattern of destruction due to injector clogging and/or ECU failure. Cut heads, 16 AMPP charging , steel cage bearings etc. I will be limiting it to 7000 RPM and it should do all of that.

2. Hydraulic steering. Long overdue.

3. I horse traded my 2:1 lower for a 1.87 Merc lower and am in the process of installing a Bobs nosecone and welding or toque tab on. I picked up a spool gun for the Miller 212 and any idiot could make good aluminum welds on cast with that thing. Should have it finished up this week.

4. Ive got a 28 pitch A4 Mercury big eared Chopper prop in the prop shop. They are doing a lightning ET cut on it. Should run good up past 80 MPH.

5. I'm cutting a few pounds off the back of the Enticer. I had one of those gigantic 57 lb. marine batteries back there. Pulled it out and moved a much smaller AGM battery to under the front seat. I pulled the liner out of the exhaust in the mid section and lost 25 lbs changing from the 2.0 to the 2.5 block . In all its about 90 lbs off the back end and 25 lbs moved forward. That should let me run a good 8-10 inches of setback with a jackplate. I was doing it before but the boat was listing towards the rear too much and sudden stops sent water over the stern.


Should have it all up and running by the end of the month.
 
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Pretty sure thats not going to fall off. I ran a good 2/3 of a pound of weld metal onto that thing between the nosecone and the tab which was built entirely of weld metal. That spool gun is amazing. I was laying full length welds onto the lower and I could put my hand directly on the weld immediately after. No way I would have done that much welding with a TIG on the there. It would have been blazing hot.
 
bms5.jpg
Pretty sure thats not going to fall off. I ran a good 2/3 of a pound of weld metal onto that thing between the nosecone and the tab which was built entirely of weld metal. That spool gun is amazing. I was laying full length welds onto the lower and I could put my hand directly on the weld immediately after. No way I would have done that much welding with a TIG on the there. It would have been blazing hot.
Hit those welds with the TIG now and they come out really nice:poke:
 
Bobs sends an epoxy that some people use to bond the nose cone on by itself. Personally I think that is insane for a boat that can go 90 MPH but to each his own. Anyway I had welded it full perimeter and I'm using up their epoxy to save on my precious bondo supply to build the low area up between the nose cone and the lower . Here is the first coat of epoxy. Real soupy stuff that is difficult to work with. Sets up hard and is easy to sand. When this sets up I'll board sand it and do a second layer with fill that should get it straight. Then its prime and paint.

Sometimes I think " Hey Mike, you make a lot of money. Why do you do this stupid crap yourself" . Then I slap myself and keep going.


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Cool stuff. I'm liking this thread. I was gonna ask what kind of oil are ya gonna use, just to be a smart*** but I'm not gonna do it. On the other hand, if you go out on a day when the prevailing wind is coming out of a certain river valley at about 35mph, and you run with it, you just might see 100.
 
Cool stuff. I'm liking this thread. I was gonna ask what kind of oil are ya gonna use, just to be a smart*** but I'm not gonna do it. On the other hand, if you go out on a day when the prevailing wind is coming out of a certain river valley at about 35mph, and you run with it, you just might see 100.

The wind won't quite do it but that 5 MPH channel current does help the top end. Going one way that is.
 
I understand Bobs sells their conversion complete for $400 something bucks. I have no idea how they make any money doing that although they only tack weld on the nosecone and Ive heard their bondo job only lasts a few years.

Heres mine . Not quite done yet as I need to fill the old water cavity with epoxy and put the pump back together.

q9yl.jpg
 
You know, I've been thinking about the rod slot. Do you think you might mill the intake to make up for the increase or maybe it wont make much difference as far as volume goes.
 
You know, I've been thinking about the rod slot. Do you think you might mill the intake to make up for the increase or maybe it wont make much difference as far as volume goes.

I had the local NAPA shop mill the block front half where it mates up to the intake manifold. I had them take .040" off . Should just about make up for the rod slot cut. I'm using the 4 petal rubber coated cages off my 1996 2.0/150 with Carson reeds. The block was in good enough shape that I had Jim Ruck straighten out and hone the bores and it still fell under spec for bore so I re used the 200 pistons with new rings and metal caged rod bearings along with new bearings all around and. Most of the balance of the motor is from my 2.0 including the crank and rods. I plan on limiting it to 7000 RPM which should be completely do-able with my current configuration.


Got the lower on the motor a few minutes ago. I do need to give a few days over the radiator to get the paint to harden up completely. Then I can put the carbs on and fire it up. Ive got some WMV's jetted to a litttle richer than standard 200 spec. Ive also got some WMH-46's to try.


rpfi.jpg
 
One thing I did do yesterday that didnt cost me anything and will help out quite a bit is I had moved the battery up front last week to help with the stern heavy weight problem. That left a spot in back that wasnt being used. I was cleaning out the garage yesterday and I had the oil tank from my injector setup that I was just about to sh!tcan. Then I thought about using it for a reserve gas tank. I've got a ten gallon tank in the Enticer and its just barely big enough to make a 40 mile round trip and it just happens the place we like to go is about 20 miles from the dock. Doesnt leave any spare capacity. So I mounted the tank where the battery used to be and routed the siphon tube hose to the gas tank where I had a fuel return from the 260 Merc that used to be on the back. Then I ran the pressure line to the splash well to act as a tank vent. I used the fuel bulb inline from the oil tank to the gas tank. Now I can fill up an extra 3 gallons and if I get low I can pump it with the bulb into the main tank in a few minutes.
 
Yep. It was buried deep with no jack plate and down 2 holes. 25 pitch Laser 2 prop. Probably running richer than hell as well. I'm going to go ahead and install a EGT kit and rejet the carbs.
 
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