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1976 - Eluder restoration

lsudecat04

New member
I had mentioned me buying my uncles boat but didn't know what kind it was and not knowing how much work was to be done. After a long overdue trip to belle chase, la I got my information and starting point.
The boat is a 1976 Eluder with a 85 Yamaha 220 on the back.
The hull is in pretty good shape a couple of scratches from going ashore but nothing really taken out of it. The transom and floor was redone approximately 5-6 years ago and is really sturdy. (My uncle did it and he is known to over due the repairs.) the motor cranks but doesn't stay running. We believe its a fuel issue so I will check that out as soon as I get it here.
It came with a very sturdy looking galvanized trailer.

Btw on a side note (he said he was clocked by a LA state trooper(better than GPS hehe) running 75mph on the spill way) I think he was using a 30p, not sure the model but I will once i get that prop.

List of to do items
1. New paint
2. new window glass
3. new "master" key
4. clean
5. fill in body(someone took a grinder to remove the gel coat and it messed up some of the raised lines on the body.)
6. build new back bench and new captain chairs
7. add stereo
8. touch up the trailer
9. re-wire the lights.
10. Carpet
11. whatever else
12. Maybe enjoy next year:devil:

Anyway on to the pictures sorry they aren't the best cell phone quality)
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I believe John's right about '79 being the first year Checkmate built Eluders.

What's that mounted on the bow, a base for a wakeboard pylon or fishing seat? I'd lose that, it's just asking for stress cracks in that area.
 
Ok after getting the paper work and the everything for the boat. It is an 80' Eluder.

I'm going to try and figure out if the fishing seat was installed properly. Also if you look close right next to the light at the front they have three holes which looks like he put a trolling motor on the front. More pictures will follow in the next couple of weeks.

When yall put on the roll and tip paint do you need to have a gel coat put on top. I have been looking at the websites for Interlude paint but they don't say anything about a top coat.
 
When yall put on the roll and tip paint do you need to have a gel coat put on top. I have been looking at the websites for Interlude paint but they don't say anything about a top coat.

No gel. Mine is all Interlux tip and roll. Just like any paint, the key is in the prep. Sand it down really well, prime and paint. Do a search here and on the iBoat forums and read through the different threads. Plan on plenty of taking time.

Good luck!
 
Here are some more pictures. My brother took them. And it kind of looks like i need to check the transom to see if it is good. I don't know if they darkness from around those bolts are from him spraying the inside down with water or from it being saturated. I will find out soon. (Crossing fingers it isn't bad.)

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Alright guys i have a million dollar question. .

The floor is very solid no give on it what so ever. I know that underneath the floor my uncle put down some marine foam and they do have some water underneath there. Once again they don't have any soft spots at all in the floor.

The question of the day is: 1) Do I remove the flooring now and take the foam out?
or 2) Say oh well the floor is solid and go about my way??

My cheap side says to just work on top of it and go with it but i don't want to be back taking the floor out and re doing it in 2 years.
 
Are you saying there's water in the foam?

What evidence are you seeing of water?

Also, check those "boxes" in the rear corners, especially the fore-aft plywood. Poke on it real hard with the blunt end of a screwdriver, it should be rock solid. Those pieces are the transom knees, a very important part of the structure - on my Eluder they were badly rotted.
 
Wow. IMO seems like more work/$$ than it may be worth in the end?

Good luck if you choose to go forward.
 
Wow. IMO seems like more work/$$ than it may be worth in the end?

ANY boat restoration involves more work and money than we'll ever get back, but that doesn't deter those of us who chose to undertake the task. We enjoy a good project, and in the end wind up with awsome boats that we'll likely never sell. (Or maybe we're just idiots. :D )
 
ANY boat restoration involves more work and money than we'll ever get back, but that doesn't deter those of us who chose to undertake the task. We enjoy a good project, and in the end wind up with awsome boats that we'll likely never sell. (Or maybe we're just idiots. :D )

Agreed, nothing derogative meant, but that boat looks pretty rough... and working off his quote "My cheap side says to just work on top of it and go with it but i don't want to be back taking the floor out and re doing it in 2 years." I don't know the OP's goals, full personalized resto vs gettin on the water? If the latter, this eluder http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/boa/2150281025.html could be a turn key rig ready to be enjoyed now at a small fraction of the resto cost...

Once I get settled again I'll be finding myself a winter project as well, but maybe one that only needs a face lift vs. reconstructive surgery. :thumb:

There have been some awesome labor of love resto's on here...don't think I've seen one start out this rough though.
 
Agreed, nothing derogative meant, but that boat looks pretty rough... and working off his quote "My cheap side says to just work on top of it and go with it but i don't want to be back taking the floor out and re doing it in 2 years." I don't know the OP's goals, full personalized resto vs gettin on the water? If the latter, this eluder http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/boa/2150281025.html could be a turn key rig ready to be enjoyed now at a small fraction of the resto cost...

Once I get settled again I'll be finding myself a winter project as well, but maybe one that only needs a face lift vs. reconstructive surgery. :thumb:

There have been some awesome labor of love resto's on here...don't think I've seen one start out this rough though.

I think I'm going to probably just go ahead and take it all apart and check it. I originally thought I could just do the face lift and have it done. This is my project boat and I want it done right. So I will remove the motor, the top deck and then the floor if I'm lucky I will be able to put the floor back with out purchasing to much more wood. and just hit the seams.

Thanks for the responses.

On a side note anyone have an electrical schematic or line diagram of the eluder?? I want to re do the wiring because it looks like crap.
Also who is the contact for Checkmate to order new seats?
 
On a side note anyone have an electrical schematic or line diagram of the eluder??


For what it's worth here's what I did. It's not exactly "standard" in that I didn't use a factory control box since I chose to use a billet shifter and foot throttle.


EDIT: I see that this drawing posted really crappy and is nearly impossible to read. If you're interested I can email you the autocad file so you can see what I did.

Check_Electrical_A.jpg






Also who is the contact for Checkmate to order new seats?

That would be Mike. (but seeing as how the news was posted that his wife passed away you may have to wait a bit - maybe someone here can let you know when he'll be back at work).
 
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I have the same boat about the same year in the same condition but I aready ripped out the floor.. I have a suzuki 150 super six on the back of mine though. I almost thought I was looking at my project. the gas tank was expanded on both sides on mine at least holds 10 extra gallons now. I have the captin and paggenger seat and that is it and they need redone. my glass is all their and good. here is something to think of on the floor. I was thinking of using sandi-tred instead of carpet in all the interior space. might want to look into it. tell me what you think. :bigthumb: I like the eluders and if you going to paint anyways who cares how it looks now. when you are done with it you know what you got. even if you put more money into it then what someone else would pay for a turnkey one. I rather spend the money and know it is done right and will last for years and years to come.
 
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