• Welcome to the Checkmate Community Forums forums.

    You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions, articles and access to our other FREE features.
    By joining our free community you will be able to:

    » Interact with over 10,000 Checkmate Fanatics from around the world!
    » Post topics and messages
    » Post and view photos
    » Communicate privately with other members
    » Access our extensive gallery of old Checkmate brochures located in our Media Gallery
    » Browse the various pictures in our Checkmate photo gallery

    Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

    If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact support by clicking here or by using the"contact us" link at the bottom of the page.

73 MX-16 resto/mod, 1 broke high school teacher

Status
Not open for further replies.
redstrat said:
I finished up the transom. First the 2nd layer of 3/4 ply.
picture.php
[/IMG]
Then the 2 by 4 on edge and a piece of 1" by 4" solid yellow pine. Also full knee braces.
picture.php
[/IMG]
picture.php
[/IMG]
Click to expand...
Ok Redstrat, I am starting the rebuild of my transom and I really like how yours worked out so I'm going to pick on you.
My question is about the pics above, it looks like in the pics that you stopped the new wood at the deck or did you slip it down between? If so, how hard was that and did you only tab it to the deck?
I am also going to borrow your design for eliminating the splashwell and I was curious if you had any bottom up pics of the mold you made for that.

Thanks,
 
Last edited:
Yes I did slip it down between the deck and the rear skin. I had to shape and sand the second (inside piece) to get it to fit. I dry fit it several time before I laminated it. Here is a pic under the splash well. A mistake I made was using chopped strand with epoxy on the inside skin. I am told that it well fare well structurally but it ate up a lot of epoxy. I think a stitched chop to mat would have been better. I did tab all the edges though. I don't have pics of the mold. I used 2" insulation foam and grooved it over the knee braces and taped it to the deck. Good luck, keep us posted.

picture.php
 
Finally I'm able to load more pictures into this thread. Thank you Robbie and Chris. I been working in my warm basement (when I'm not working on that second bathroom for my co-captain) and I seem to be in the bling mode. First up, I always liked the Chrysler script on the back of my Town and Country so I bought a couple of new ones for the motor.

picture.php


picture.php


You may recall, I bought a new windshield last spring but the old frame needed some help. I'm planning on using silicon to adhere the windshield in the frame so I took the top and bottom rails to my local guy and had him fill all the rivet and snap holes with aluminum. I took my grinder off the bench and mounted it to my outboard stand.

picture.php


After filing the welds I started with 80 grit and stepping up to 1500, then moving over to the buffing wheel. Hours later, I mean hours, :shakehead: here is what I have so far. The first pic shows what I started with. You can see that one of the stanchions I worked a bit last summer to see if this was a feasible plan.

picture.php


Sanding through the anodized coating and making the welds and pits disappear is the hardest part.

picture.php


picture.php


I'm doing this all by hand with wet paper. Here is the top rail and stanchions are finished and I've started on the bottom.

picture.php


This is my first attempt at polishing metal. It's a lot of work, but gratifying in the end. I also got out in the shop on a milder day (30 degrees) and replaced the hard to find wheel bearings in this old trailer. Someone had put the wrong bearing on one side at some point so it was time for a couple of new races. My arm is still sore from beating on those babies. I have a NOS Michigan Wheel Stainless 13X19 prop coming this week (more bling). I found it on e-bay for a buck fitty. You were right Sammie, prop selection is pretty slim for these old egg beaters. :thumb:
 
I finally have the frame polished and windshield siliconed into place. The vinyl insert that was in the frame originally was cracked and dry, unserviceable. I cut a strip of 1/8" closed cell foam to lay in the bottom of the frame. I then wedged small pieces of 1/4" to hold the windshield in the center of the frame. I taped it with 1/8" fine line tape and followed it with 2". I siliconed it in and then dipped my finger in soapy water to smooth it as best I could. I let in dry for three hours, then pulled on the tape while running a razor blade along the edge. Now I have to make a gasket before I mount it to the deck. The first one I made is in the trash. :shakehead:

picture.php


picture.php


Before

picture.php


After

picture.php


picture.php
 
So here is what I made for the windshield to ride on. I cut a strip of 1/4" closed cell foam (I seem to use this stuff a lot) and wrapped it with vinyl left over from the interior, with welt cord down the center. The welt cord sits in a groove in the frame to keep it centered.

picture.php


After that got busy mounting... yer...ah... I mean putting the windshield on. Here she is

picture.php


picture.php


picture.php
 
Thanks to everyone for your kind comments. I know some don't like windshields on these hulls but I think that this style windshield does have the right lines for this boat and does give it a "classic" touch. Keeping it shiny will be a PITA though. It hit 40 degrees yesterday so I fired it up. Is it spring yet? :eyecrazy:
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top