• Welcome to the Checkmate Community Forums forums.

    You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions, articles and access to our other FREE features.
    By joining our free community you will be able to:

    » Interact with over 10,000 Checkmate Fanatics from around the world!
    » Post topics and messages
    » Post and view photos
    » Communicate privately with other members
    » Access our extensive gallery of old Checkmate brochures located in our Media Gallery
    » Browse the various pictures in our Checkmate photo gallery

    Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

    If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact support by clicking here or by using the"contact us" link at the bottom of the page.

'85 Predictor floor coming out!

85Predictor

Member
Will start posting pics tomorrow. I have started pulling the plywood up starting just behind the front seats. The floor does not look like it ever had fiberglass on it. Is that possible?
icon_confused.gif
Also, if water soaks through the floor, is there a way out or is it trapped? I have not seen a drain hole from the sub-floor to the sump pump. If it has no way out, then that would explain alot! The foam is soaked in the main floor and in one of the floatation boxes. There was enough water in there to support at least one goldfish!
biggthumpup.gif


Later.....
 
Well,
Let the fun begin!
Project boat: '85 Predictor w/ '87 Merc 115hp
FloorRepair004.jpg

Piece of the old floor. No evidence of fiberglass??
FloorRepair001.jpg
Forward View
FloorRepair002.jpg
"]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v362/checkmate04/FloorRepair002.jpg[/IMG][/url]
Rear View
FloorRepair003.jpg

Is there any risk leaving the motor on the boat while ripping the floor out?? I do not know if the floor,floatation boxes and stringer help to strengthen the transom. I need to know this before I work my way any further back.
Thanks!
 
Once the water is in there is no way out. It usually is a result of the boat sitting outside uncovered year after year. It slowly seeps in any screw holes and through the staples holding the floor to the stringers. Then it simply rots from the inside out. In the 80's Mate glassed only the topside and only resincoated the underside. I redid one in the fall and glassed both sides and then glassed it to the new stringers. No staples, no screws - completely air and water tight.
 
Been there done that, had the itch to prove it. Have fun and take your time. It will be better than new when your done.
 
Mark,
Do you know if it is safe to keep the motor on the transom while re-doing the floor??? I left a message at Checkmate today. Do I sound anxious??
bounce.gif

At this point I do not think the transom is bad. I have heard that the transom is installed first. If that is true, then I should be able to leave the motor on and remove the floor and all of the floatation boxes filled with water/foam, right?
Thanks
 
thats as yucky looking as mine was. mine being a 78 didnt have the floatation boxes.

yours looks a bit deeper than mine. see how my floor is only 28" wide from where it meets the hull. yours looks much wider.
DSC01121.jpg
4_21_05003.jpg
 
85
Even if you leave the motor on, you should still make sure the hull is sitting level before you install stringers. Take a straight edge and make sure your trailer isn't creating a hook in it.(especially if it is sitting on rollers). You could block up under the transom and let it carry the weight if it is.
 
Mark,
Not sure where the straight edge should be set. The one I have is only 2 ft long.
Worked some more today on the floor. After removing the foam by the hose for the bilge pump, I noticed the clamp was a bit loose on the bulkhead side. You don't suppose? If this fitting developes a leak, it will dump water directly into the top of the floatation box! From there it will find its' way to the the main sub-floor. Something to think about!
 
On my other Mate I was getting water in the floatation box from the transom boot. The boat was floating heavy on the starboard side. The water goes into the foam and has no way to get out. I dug out the foam that was wet and I drilled a 1.5" drain hole to the bilge side and glassed it over (that's why the hole is so big) to protect the wood. By the looks of your pictures that boat sat outside in the rain. Water will always seek the lowest level. I'm a maniac with the sealants on my boats. Every screw hole in your floor needs to be sealed. As far as the straightedge just find something around the house that is 4' long and perfectly straight. I use a peice of aluminum off an old shower stall. Run it from your transom back in several places along the bottom to make sure it is flat. It looked like your boat was sitting on rollers. They can push up your hull in those spots creating a hook and when you glass in the stringers and floor it might stay that way. That's why I said try to block it up flat. Even taking the weight off the rollers by blocking the transom might do the trick. But if everything is flat underneath now, then don't worry about it.
 
Mark,
Thanks for all of the great info!
The trailer has rollers down the middle and bunks left and right on the back. I will post some pictures of the hull/trailer. Sure want to get this done correctly the first time!!
 
icon_confused.gif


What's the best tool for cutting the last bit of flooring out?? I have cut as much as I feel comfortable with using a jigsaw!

I have a Dremel with a cutting wheel but that sure seems a bit anemic for this!!
lol.gif
 
I used a disc sander with 40 grit sanding discs to cut through the fiberglass at the edges of the floor. Once I sanded through the glass the rest of the floor just pulled right out.

1984 Predictor 1968 Mercury 1250SS I-6 125 HP
 
i used my cordles skill saw. i got a very straight line this way. i then used a hammer and chisel to free the rest from the hull.
 
thumb.gif

I am just about ready to go shopping for foam; plywood and resin. What thickness ply for the floor; seat base; stringers??

How about resin? Is there another brand besides West System which might be easier on the wallet and work as well??

Thanks!!
 
Some will say that you need to use marine grade plywood. Not really needed as you will have to seal all the wood with resin anyway. Seals out the water good. I did not reinstall the foam on my boat. There was not a lot there to begine with. Unless you have real deep pockets I would stay away from the west system stuff.
I used polyester resin. The same stuff you can get at home depot or lowes.I think I am on gallon #27, it seems like I sanded most of it off. lol. I bought most of the fiber glass there also as they have the cloth and the mat.
I went back with 3/4 inch plywood for the transom,floor,string and will use the same on the stringer. Yea its a bit heaver than needed but I did not want to do this project again.
 
Back
Top