john lamon
Well-known member
Looks great! with that pic of the dash and top deck you can really see how sweet the finished product will be 
I like the way the gauges look too.
I like the way the gauges look too.
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86 Exciter Resto
- Thread starter Ramifications
- Start date
Ramifications
Well-known member
Amazing what buffing will do to the gelcoat!!!! Great job!!! Gauges look great against the dark blue dash!!
Yes, there are two knees and the horizontal support and they are all attached to the transom. When the engine was still on the boat, I trimmed it all the way up and lift it and push down on it with no noticeable movement in the transom.
john lamon
Well-known member
I'm in the car port club too, love mine , nice if the boat is wet to when you put it away to leave the tarp off and with the sun beating on the roof it gets nice and hot in there to dry stuff out
Ramifications
Well-known member
Does anyone know if a standard trim/tilt gauge will work for a jack plate as well? The only gauge that won't match is my JP gauge, and I would like them all to match.
You might want to put this in the rigging section so others can see it.
Electrical, Audio & Rigging
Last edited:
john lamon
Well-known member
A standard gauge might work, I don't know to be honest but it won't do you much good having a standard gauge as they are not anywhere close to as accurate as a JP gauge IMO.
I really like the TH marine one, it has 20 positions, one for each 1/4" movement on the plate and is dead on every time, I didn't have anywhere to mount mine so I had to get rid of the trim gauge for the motor, I always go by feel for that anyway so it didn't matter to me, I think the white face one would look good with your gauges, not sure if it will work with a CMC plate though.
http://www.thmarine.com/product.cfm?PRID=209
Ramifications
Well-known member
This is the one that came with the JP, but it doesn't match...
http://cook-mfg.net/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=39
http://cook-mfg.net/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=39
Ramifications
Well-known member
That's what I keep telling myself, as I'm contorting myself to reach a nut under the deck and the bolt threaded in from the top at the same time. Or trying to reach a nut to put vice grips on a nut. When I see the shine, it remotivates me...and looking at the boats on this forum!
Ramifications
Well-known member
Just got home from work and found my fiberglass repair goods were delivered today. Very quick delivery since I ordered Monday afternoon. 
for Merton's...
Chopped strand Mat (in the paper)
Polyester resin
Polyester fairing compound
System three primer
Now I just need to pick out a paint color... Merton's sent me two paint charters. Interlux and Epifanes. Aside from which company has a color that better fits my boat, which paint do you like better?
for Merton's...Chopped strand Mat (in the paper)
Polyester resin
Polyester fairing compound
System three primer
Now I just need to pick out a paint color... Merton's sent me two paint charters. Interlux and Epifanes. Aside from which company has a color that better fits my boat, which paint do you like better?
Ramifications
Well-known member
While you're up here maybe you could put the buffing wheel to the deck of my Liner before you kill yourself on my snowmobile.
John
and when I crash your snowmobile, I can just buff out the damage
Ramifications
Well-known member
Ramifications
Well-known member
I have two dreaded words to say... with much regret...
WET FOAM
I started off yesterday with finishing up the wet sanding and buffing. I also washed all of the engine parts in preparation of paint. I didn't get into the fiberglass work since it was only about 35 degrees out. I will take that on when it warms up...
Now back to what I did today. I started off by installing the rest of the gauges, and moved on to speakers. I cut a hole in the front foam box on the starboard side. The wood at the bottom of the speaker hole was a little wet, so I started to remove the foam in that box. I found it was holding water at the bottom. Started to work towards the back of the boat, cutting small evaluation holes in the side boxed out part. I found about 1/2" of water in the bottom the whole way back.
I started removing as much of the foam as I could to get the water out and let it start to air dry. It seems as though the water was getting in from one or all of these locations; windshield, bow rail or rub rail (most likely) I did cut one small hole in the floor area with foam, and found it to be 100% dry. The core all appears dry, except where the front box area is. I haven't torn into the port side yet, so I'm yet to see what that holds.
I have a couple questions... Do they side boxed out areas or the front and rear foam boxes have any structural purpose? To me, it doesn't appear they do. If they are only there for foam, I'm going to remove them and redesign those areas.
WET FOAM
I started off yesterday with finishing up the wet sanding and buffing. I also washed all of the engine parts in preparation of paint. I didn't get into the fiberglass work since it was only about 35 degrees out. I will take that on when it warms up...
Now back to what I did today. I started off by installing the rest of the gauges, and moved on to speakers. I cut a hole in the front foam box on the starboard side. The wood at the bottom of the speaker hole was a little wet, so I started to remove the foam in that box. I found it was holding water at the bottom. Started to work towards the back of the boat, cutting small evaluation holes in the side boxed out part. I found about 1/2" of water in the bottom the whole way back.
I started removing as much of the foam as I could to get the water out and let it start to air dry. It seems as though the water was getting in from one or all of these locations; windshield, bow rail or rub rail (most likely) I did cut one small hole in the floor area with foam, and found it to be 100% dry. The core all appears dry, except where the front box area is. I haven't torn into the port side yet, so I'm yet to see what that holds.
I have a couple questions... Do they side boxed out areas or the front and rear foam boxes have any structural purpose? To me, it doesn't appear they do. If they are only there for foam, I'm going to remove them and redesign those areas.
Ramifications
Well-known member
Yes, the top is open from the front flotation boxes to the back flotation boxes. I will be removing them all together...I don't like the fact they can hold water due to being open on the top, but there is no way to see in.
OFFSHORE GINGER
Banned
Hey guy in my opinion in regards to your last post i also would .remove the floatation boxes / foam considering the foam used is a 2 lb Urathune foam that absorbs water like a sponge .