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87 predictor chine walk

R

robert2278

Member
Hello everyone! I took the old check mate out today after some adjustments. And she still chine walkes pretty bad. Speed is about 50 or so . The engine is a 73/74 merc inline 1500. Prop is 21pitch ss. No jack plate. She cavitates then starts the butt clintching wobble. My ? Is do I need to put on a jack plate so I've got some setback if so how much .and if I do should I have a low water p/u. I.e foot. Has any of y'all had this problem.thanks rob:cheers:
 
Rob,

My old predictor ran smooth as a top with the same setup.

How much trim are you running? Too much + trim will make it hard to control.

Setback will help. You do not have to run a LWPU as long as you do not jack it up to high.

Chinewalk can be driven through once you get the hang of it. Seat time will help. :bigthumb:
 
I had a six inch plate on mine. Plugged the top thee holes and was running about an inch below the pad. It liked a 24P Laser II and we went about 60 GPS.
 
robert2278 said:
are u talking plugging 3 of the 6 holes in the water intake? and 6 inch vertical or horizontal travel?
Click to expand...

Yes, but it looks like there are more than three. This isn't mine but something I "Googled".
motor047.jpg


My jackplate set the motor back six inches and I was able to raise the motor to be an inch or two below the pad.

http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4640
 
I have the same hull. Mine used to chine walk like crazy around 60 MPH. Now it doesnt chine walk at all and Ive gone 86 with it and should handily hit 90 MPH with the right prop. How you ask?

1. Solid motor mounts !!!!
2. LWPU. You need it to do the next step...
3. A Jackplate. Get that prop centerline WAY up there. An inch above the pad with a 26 pitch big ear chopper works best for me.
4. Hydraulic steering !!!!!!!!!!!! .
5. Trim it so the prop shaft is parallel with the pad. No lower, No higher once you are under way.

Seat time without setup will only get you killed.
 
I appreciate all the help from all u guys . I've been chasing this chine walk issue for a while from engine swaps, jackplates ect...when I bought her some years ago I remember the man saying she should handle 80. Lol...I'll post some picks if I can get em too load up.
 
Most perceived chine walk isnt really chine walk. Its just the motor flopping around. The seat time thing is a bunch of hooey. I'd make good steering and solid mounts my first priorities. I used to have "chine walk" at or around 60 MPH that I thought was going to kill me. Now I'm tooling along at 78 MPH and it feels like 50 MPH used to feel.
 
Yeah...lol it does feel like the pad is on a skateboard sliding side too side.I do think the engine mounts are weak. I have noticed that it torques foward and aft with the throttle.I'll try some basics too see if that will minimize this problem
 
wired said:
Most perceived chine walk isnt really chine walk. Its just the motor flopping around. The seat time thing is a bunch of hooey. I'd make good steering and solid mounts my first priorities. I used to have "chine walk" at or around 60 MPH that I thought was going to kill me. Now I'm tooling along at 78 MPH and it feels like 50 MPH used to feel.
Click to expand...

So if seat time is a bunch of hooey. I can come down and drive your boat just like you?:banana:
 
It almost drives itself so yes, you could probably handle it :). I had 30 years of "seat time" behind the wheel of this boat and it never ran worth a flip on the pad until I did all the stuff I laid out.


Seriously. I dont have to do any steering corrections until 80 MPH or so. Point it straight and go. Setup is everything.

Bought a new Brucato ACU today with a 7250 rev limit. 90 MPH here I come...once it warms up.
 
Found the uppers and lowers at busters machine shop 70 bucks plus shipping not bad considering everything I've ever bought for her was super high...lol
 
Well I'm starting too see now how all the small things can be big problems...lol. I can move it about 3/4 - to mabey an 1 inch. That's just eyeballing it @ the foot. And the play appears to be in helm...
 
There will be little you can do to take the slop out of a worn out helm with a single cable. Chances are you have a single ride guide setup. Make sure the nuts on the end of the cable are tight on the end of the rack.

I don't think parts are available for them any longer.

New single cable systems are not that expensive. I would replace that first before I went to the solid mounts.

Dual cable kits can be adjusted to take out any slop in the cables. If you go this route, I have some extra parts to attach the second cable to the engine.
 
I have just recently upgraded to a rotary helm single cable tho. I do have some parts left over from a duel cable set up I had on a 200 venom. Not sure if it will bolt up on the merc. As I was researching the solid mounts, I stumbled across a duel cable bracket for an xs on eBay . Is that what u had in mind...
 
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