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Enticer Repower?

Vandalizer

Well-known member
As you might have seen, I was looking into selling my classic mate to get more speed and more room... but I'm looking primarily into closed deck boats, so although a 20'er might be marginally more stable than my 16.5, it wouldn't have much more room.
So, I'm trying to figure out how cheaply I can repower. I should be able to get a decent amount of money for my inline 115- it runs GREAT. I think I'd be perfectly happy with a 150, I think that'd take me to nearly 70 with the right setup (I'm guessing 4" setback?). I think a 200 is complete overkill, but a 175 would be OK too- either way the CG plate will have to come off, only rated for 125. I originally had it insured with a 150 before I had the 115 rebuilt, so I know I'm good at least to there.

Anyone have a line on a solid 150 or 175?? (Or want to trade down to a 115???)
 
hey

My brother has an eluder with a 150 merc. Ive been 68 gps in it. Id say 70 is possible if you get a 150. :thumb:
 
Anyone have recommendations on setback for my Enticer? Here's my plan, please help me with any feedback.

Motor: Merc 175 $1200
Material to fill inline non-BIA mounting holes: ????? help
Jackplate: Bob's 4" Versa $400
Steering: Teleflex back mount dual rack $375
Prop: 25p something???????
Gauges: ?????? ~$200

So I'm looking at around $2500 plus a couple days of work. Anyone want to buy a 115 inline? Also, any suggestions on shops to do the rigging would be helpful as well- depending on the cost I'd consider it. I've talked to Kary a couple times, but haven't been able to get in touch with him for weeks.
 
Rather then filling the non-BIA holes what you need to do is just drill out new holes on the transom side of the jackplate that match the holes that you already have on your boat.

As for the Jackplate, just buy a CMC 5.5". They are only like $250 new and $50-$150 used.
 
I thought about that, but wasn't sure. For the small amount of strength you're giving up in the jackplate, it seems worth it to NOT add any more holes to the transom.
The reason I like the Versas is that you can adjust them on the water MUCH faster. I'll definitely appreciate that when I'm trying to dial the height in. After that I'd only adjust for towing, but I think the convenience will pay for itself- 4 or 6"? Buss, what do you have?
 
I have the 5.5" CMC.
I never had the urge to want to adjust my j/p on the water. You just have to plan ahead.
I always ran a through hub prop with out a nose cone. This way I could leave my engine height the same for going fast or water sports. I know it wasn't as fast as it could be but it was easy to manage.
 
The bobs 5.5" convertable is what I put on the predictor. Its a 2 pc, its black, and it has - trim built in. This is great for low speeds. It keeps the bounce down.

I drilled out the jackplate instead of the transom as well. After I set it up I only adjusted it a couple times and left it.

Either look for a 150 or a 200. The 175 merc is a de-tuned 200. With the 200 and a 26P laserII, and no cone, I could run 78 all day long. AND run 74 with 4 people and beers at the same setup.
 
I completely overlooked that model- looks like it's lighter and less expensive too. Thanks!! How was your hole shot with the 26 Laser II?
 
I only had 2 boats pull away from me on take off. One was a V drive and the other was my friend Joe in his Pulsare witha Simon 3.0. Its not the fastest setup on the water BUT it will put a smile on your face daily.
 
So I'm looking at a 200 in Bucyrus- anyone down there possibly interested in checking it out for me? (compression, runs, overall condition) I'd be willing to pay! If not, any recommendations for a reputable Merc tech in the area that I could hire to do it? If this starts to work out, I'll have to talk to the factory to schedule a tour!
 
Thanks for the thought.
The 200 that's in Bucyrus apparently came off a Baja because it's stringers came apart!
Any reputable techs down there that could give it a once over? I really don't want to drop the cash just to find out that it'll need a rebuild.

Anyone want a very healthy 115?
 
Here are three pictures of the 200. I've been told that it's a 'puff' and just like new, so I was disappointed. Says compression is ~140+. Opinions???

Merc-3.png

Merc-2.png

Merc-1.png
 
I thought the same thing... and he said that he 'thinks' the actual compression was around 170, but he said 140 to be safe... don't know how long it's been sitting, but supposedly covered. Don't know why it would be left outside.
 
Well it is clear that the guy did not do a compression test and seems that he is not to be trusted. If you are still interested in buying it I think you should get it upright and do a comp test and even pull the heads to check out the cylinders. Head gaskets are cheap.
 
stock compression on that should be closer to 120...definately not 170. If its 140 he's probably got shaved heads on it. not much you can tell from pics though....
 
Yea, after seeing the pictures, it definitely pushes me back toward the 175 I found. Since I've heard the 175s are de-tuned 200s, is there an easy way to squeeze the extra power out of them? (hopefully just carbs???)
 
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