Enticer w/ 115 Rude Restoration

[pkevcon]

This will be my first restoration and can't wait to get started. I found this website and I am extremely amazed at what I have seen and read so far. I am really looking forward to hearing from everybody while I am going through the motions of my own restoration project.

So, I found this Enticer last fall, and I am just now getting the time to start in on it. The only thing I have done to it was took it to my buddy who works at a marina because the motor wouldn't turn over. He had it running in 15 minutes. We rebuilt the lower unit and took it out for a test run and man does it rip. We never even had it wide open, 3/4 throttle was plenty for me, not knowing what condition the rest of the boat was in.

As of last weekend I ripped a the carpet up, removed the floor and saw that the stringer was rotted. the foam was wet at one time. There were a couple boxes behind the rear seat on each side that are rotted so I am guessing that the transom will need to be replaced as well. Still need to remove the motor but need to recruit a couple guys to give me a hand.

One thing I noticed while reading over some of the forums was that nobody kept a talley of what they were spending over the course of a restoration project. I hope to do that here. This week I will be going to Depot for Plywood, Resin, and mat. This question is for anyone that has used supplies from Home Depot, do you have any suggestion on material..

PICTURES COMING SOON...

 

[happy]

I'm not sure anyone would post the actual cost!! the wife may see it!! lol. It really depends on what all you need to repair/replace. I have about 5k in mine and i'll be posting pics soon. I'm all complete except the boarding ladder and rear seats and some minor interior work.

 

[bigredinohio]

I would avoid using the Home Depot stuff for glassing. I would recommend US Composites or Mertons for all fiberglassing supplies. If you are going with polyester resin, be sure to use layup resin. The Bondo or Home Depot resins are considered finishing resins and contains a wax additive. When the finishing resin cures, the wax works it's way to the surface and you need to dewax prior to any further layups. Most people just use layup resin and as long as your clean with your layups, no sanding is needed. I personally used epoxy for most of my repairs which I found to be more user friendly however the stuff is very dangerous (must use respirator when using) and expensive.

Another tip is mat isn't strong. You'll want to use a cloth of some sort for actual strength. I've used 1708 on the transom and my core repair which contains a biax cloth stitched to a mat. It works well but uses a LOT of resin to wet out and you'll need to knock down the stitching prior to any additional layups. Woven roven is also nice but you'll need to sandwich mat between layers...i.e. mat, wv, mat, wv, mat. Also, if you order from US Composites or Mertons, they ship the glass rolled up and you don't have weak spots from the glass being folded.

Lastly, a good tip for removing your motor is to find a tree or a beam in a barn or garage. Hook a chain to your motor to the strong object then raise the tongue of the trailer to lower the stern of the boat and your motor should come off.

I believe Robbie (cmpulse170) kept a log of all tools used, supplies he bought and the price in his restoration thread. I keep all my receipts and will post at the end. I know that most of my orders are usually between $200-$400 and I've had many. A rough guess is around $3,000 and that's not including the new interior from Checkmate.

My .02 worth.

 

[pkevcon]

Thanks Bigred, I got a chance to read over most of your restoration. You did some great work, I was impressed.. Thanks for the great explanantions in your posts. Oh, I don't recall any pictures of your boat when it was completed.. Did you ever post any when it was done? I will have to check it out again.

So, just so I am reading this right, I should just go with the epoxy resin and the 1708. I can get both from US Composites? Thanks again

I think I am just going to go ahead and rip out the transom as well. I figure I might as well do it right. I was looking the boat over tonight and noticed that there were some stress cracking around my tow hooks. I didn't see any that looked like they were caused by the weight of the motor but what the hell, I might as well replace everything...Transom, stringer, floor...ETC...I will definately use your restoration as a guide.

 

[pkevcon]

Nevermind bigred, I just looked at your thread, looks like you still have some work to do. All the same, your doing a great job, can't wait to see the final result.

 

[pkevcon]

Hey Happy, I know what you mean... Im not so sure it will be the money spent in my situation though. Wait until she sees how much of time its going to eat up!!!

 

[bigredinohio]

Thanks Bigred, I got a chance to read over most of your restoration. You did some great work, I was impressed.. Thanks for the great explanantions in your posts. Oh, I don't recall any pictures of your boat when it was completed.. Did you ever post any when it was done? I will have to check it out again.

So, just so I am reading this right, I should just go with the epoxy resin and the 1708. I can get both from US Composites? Thanks again

I think I am just going to go ahead and rip out the transom as well. I figure I might as well do it right. I was looking the boat over tonight and noticed that there were some stress cracking around my tow hooks. I didn't see any that looked like they were caused by the weight of the motor but what the hell, I might as well replace everything...Transom, stringer, floor...ETC...I will definately use your restoration as a guide.

I found this to be the hardest starting point for me in my restoration since there are dozens of reasons to use one resin over the other and what glass to use. This is your boat and you will ultimately have to make that call.

I started with epoxy on the Checkmate most because it was recommended to me because of the balsa core damage in my boat. However, I would use polyester resin if rebuilding another boat (without major core damage) having used both types of resin. It's far cheaper then epoxy resin and less dangerous to play with for the most part as you can smell the bad fumes. Another thing is poly resin wets out csm (mat) much better then epoxy which makes like much easier. The biggest downsides to poly resin is that it does have a shelf life and the bonding properties are less to epoxy but still more then sufficient in this application.

Just remember that polyester based products such as gelcoat or poly resin will not adhere to epoxy should you go with epoxy first then decide to switch.

You really should post pictures of what you have. We are better able to guide you and point things out to you based from our own experiences.

 

[JSmitty]

I'll detail my restoration when I'm done. I haven't kept track of the cost, but I will say this ... I spent a lot on stuff that I didn't really think too much about in the beginning. Things like latex gloves, dust masks, tack cloth, sandpaper (at least $75), tools that I didn't have (impact driver, angle grinder, saw blade for angle grinder, Craftsman mini circular saw, Harbor Freight multi-master clone, stripped screw remover, etc.), respirator, steering wheel puller, surfacing putty, Marine-Tex, acetone, and on and on ...

It adds up.

And of course in the beginning I didn't buy enough resin or paint.

Then I kept deciding to add to the project ... new gauges, steering wheel, MOTOR!, controls, switches, wiring harness, ignition switch, windaway deflectors, cockpit lights, cup holders, edge trim, seat suspension, Nautolex for the hull sides. Then I decided to change the interior color scheme, so I blew $150 on carpet I'd already ordered.

It's also taken MUCH more effort and time than I estimated. Although I know a lot more now than when I started, I seriously doubt if I would do it again.

 

[happy]

Hey Happy, I know what you mean... Im not so sure it will be the money spent in my situation though. Wait until she sees how much of time its going to eat up!!!

Ya know, my wife really didn't mind the time working on it, she rode with me last weekend and said "you need to finish up, I would like to just play on it". For my anniversary present am getting a new trailer, she is ready to go. I'm off the rest of the week, so maybe I'll get it done. What was said about sundries is true, I have a bunch of "chit" from my rigging and mechanical days which really dropped the bill down. Things like screws, 5200, washers PPE, wire, wire connectors, selector switches, bezzels, steering and the list goes on. These all seem to $100.00 you to death. I had a good supply, not any more.

 

[teamhart2]

I figure it took me about 1600 bucks to do floor, transom, pad and parts of the hull. That includes some stereo equipment, bilge pump setup, and some electric work as well though. Good luck, the enticers kick ass!

 

[pkevcon]

PICS

I know, I know... Pics are coming guys. That will probably be the first thing I do when I get home this morning, Take pics and post them. Hopfully I will have them up tonight.

Thanks again to everyone that commented.

 

[pkevcon]

PICS

So, I took some pics today but can't figure out how to get them up on this site... Can someone help me out?

 

[pkevcon]

PICS!!!

 

[pkevcon]

Tried the photo bucket thing, not working either....This is a pain....

 

[pkevcon]

maybe this will work for those who are interested. Please check them out, There are just a few for now, some of the boat, just a couple showing where I am at on the interior. Got the seays out, ripped up carpet, took a look at the stringer, you can see some rot on the flotation boxes in the back. This weekend I will just work on getting all the wood and fiberglass ripped out, so chime in everyone...http://photobucket.com/kp-14

 

[bigredinohio]

You want to copy the direct link of the picture from photobucket and click the yellow square box with the mountains (insert image box) above where you type here in the forums. It should allow you to enter the URL of the picture.

Here are your pictures...

 

[Rob B]

I ended up spending $2500.00 on the Enforcer. That's a new floor, Transom, new wirng, resin, cloth, bilge pump, paint, SS screws, bolts, nuts, washers..etc. You can view a list of materials on both the restos I've done.

Here's the list for the Pulse 170:
From Merton's
5-Gallons of Polyester Resin $26.00x5=$130.00
14 yds x50" of 1 1/2oz mat $4.00yd x14yds=$56.00
4yds x12" of 6 oz mat @2.65x4=$10.60
1-gallon of Hull & Deck putty $45.00
1"x6" Alum roller $11.60
1"x3" alum roller $8.50
1-sheet of 3/8"x24"x48" core $19.00
for a total of $280.70+ $57.48 shipping= $338.18

From Lowes
2-1/2" top grade exterior plyboard $22.88 x2=$45.76
1-3/4" top grade exterior plyboard $32.44
12- PL premium construction adhesive 12 x $4.58=$54.96
1- 2x10x8' $7.97

From West Marine
1-gallon polyester resin $37.99 needed one more gallon
1-fiberglass tape 6"x10yds $31.99

From the Carpet Store
6'x16' 20oz marine carpet @119.99

A grand total of $669.28 plus my labor priceless!!!

Tools: http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15951&page=7 post #122

And here's a the list for the Enforcer:

Here's a laundry list of supplies so far, I'm sure some items are missed:

Merton's
12 Gallons of Poly Resin @ $26.00 = $312.00
1 Gallon of Fairing Putty = $45.00
1 Gallon of Hull and Deck Putty = $45.00
20 YDS x50" 1.5 OZ Mat @ $4.00 = $80.00
9 YDS x38" DBM 1708 @ $6.00 = $54.00
15 YDS x6" DBM 1708 @ $1.50 = $22.50
shipping = $98.46
Total = $686.96

Lowes
3 shts of ext plywood 3/4"@$29.77 = $89.31
3 shts of ext plywood 1/2"@$22.88 = $68.64
2 boxes of disp gloves @ $8.98 = $17.96
30 tubes of PL Premuim @ $4.58 = $137.40
assortment of paint brushes,
rollers,sanding disks, misc = $200.00
Total $513.31

Overton's
2 battery trays = $19.98
Perko Battery Switch = $34.99
Thru hull discharge 1 1/8" = $5.99
2 battery cables = $13.98
2 SS transom eyes = $29.98
Switch Panel = $44.99
Bilge Pump = $59.99
Fuel full hose = $26.97
Bilge pump hose = $4.96
Fuel vent hose = $11.96
2 gal of Ultra Tuff non skid = $139.98
2 qts of primer = $39.98
2 Foam application rollers = $15.98
Total $449.73

Grand Total $1650.00​

 

[pkevcon]

Thanks a lot BigRed... I appreciate you putting them up for me.

So, I didn't get to do much this weekend. Friday I started drilling out all the rivets for the aluminum bumper rail, got 3/4 of that completed but thats about it. My girlfriend adopted a dog from Tennessee so I got roped into picking it up on Saturday. Sunday and Monday she surprised me with a short getaway to Maine. So, I didn't get what I wanted to get done... Sorry, wish I had more.

 

[groundloop]

That's going to be a nice looking boat when you're done.

I've got close to $6500 into my Eluder (please dear God, don't let my wife see this !!!) - which includes $1200 for the boat and trailer and $1800 for the engine (which I found on ebay). I also decided to get all new gauges while I was pouring money into the project, new steering wheel, a new steering system (after finding out one steering cable was bad and replacements aren't available), billet shifter, control cables, and on and on. Here's a link to my rebuild (sounds like you've got many of the same issues I did with the flotation boxes etc. - and btw, the side of the rear flotation boxes also serve as transom knees.)

http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15673

I gotta disagree with bigredinohio just a little bit about epoxy. It's not that it's all that toxic or dangerous, I've worked with epoxy resin for years building a fiberglass airplane before using it for my boat rebuild with no problems. What happens is that after prolonged exposure a small percentage of people develop a severe alergy to it. If you do become alergic to it you either need to find a different brand of epoxy or else use a tyvek suit and respirator to avoid the alergic reaction. You absolutely need to use some common sense about ventillation, breathing concentrated epoxy fumes for long periods of time isn't good for you (just like breathing the styrene in polyester resin isn't good for you). Also, epoxy has far superior physical properties as far as bonding to existing fiberglass and is far less susceptable to water absorption than polyester. Personally, if I had it to do over again I'd still use epoxy for the transom, anything structural where I needed to bond to existing fiberglass, and anything that may get wet, and polyester for the rest (such as the dash).

 

[teamhart2]

boat looks good, interesting color combo, will be interesting to see how it cleans up if you do that. Did you lay that flooring in there or was that there?

should be a fun project and a sweet final product!