Evinrude XP Experts... what do I have?

[jmshipp]

I need some help. I have a 1985 Starflite that has had issues getting out of the hole. Once on plane, no real issues. Had the carbs rebuilt last year, compression checked out good, plugs replaced, fuel pump diaphragm's replaced, etc. After all of this, I still had issues getting out of the hole. The motor is on the transom; so set back. Running a 22P 3 blade raker.

Now for where I need help... the motor is supposed to be a Rude 1984 2.6XP. Bracket #235STLCRC. I did some research on the engine, and parts, and seem to have uncovered that it might be a parts motor. Based on what I was able to get off of the motor, it has the wrong heads. Not real sure about the carbs either.

Here is what I found:
Heads 328324/5... from a 175?
Carbs top:395465 mid: 395464 bottom: 395465

So, if my suspicions are correct, what other numbers should I be checking? What kind of issues is this causing with performance? What can I do to get the motor back to performing like a 235 should be a not like the 175 I think it is? The engine does seem to run well; so, anything I can do to make it perform better I am willing to do or have done.

I really do appreciate anyones feedback.

- Mike

 

[ezflyer]

I need some help. I have a 1985 Starflite that has had issues getting out of the hole. Once on plane, no real issues. Had the carbs rebuilt last year, compression checked out good, plugs replaced, fuel pump diaphragm's replaced, etc. After all of this, I still had issues getting out of the hole. The motor is on the transom; so set back. Running a 22P 3 blade raker.

Now for where I need help... the motor is supposed to be a Rude 1984 2.6XP. Bracket #235STLCRC. I did some research on the engine, and parts, and seem to have uncovered that it might be a parts motor. Based on what I was able to get off of the motor, it has the wrong heads. Not real sure about the carbs either.

Here is what I found:
Heads 328324/5... from a 175?
Carbs top:395465 mid: 395464 bottom: 395465

So, if my suspicions are correct, what other numbers should I be checking? What kind of issues is this causing with performance? What can I do to get the motor back to performing like a 235 should be a not like the 175 I think it is? The engine does seem to run well; so, anything I can do to make it perform better I am willing to do or have done.

I really do appreciate anyones feedback.

- Mike

hey mike whats on tha calon. we need pics pics pics. does it look like its been rebuilt. are all the parts the same color. some years the motors were painted diffrent colors. is the paint still on the bolts. the first thing i look for is rtv silicone. black red blue or clear. thats the first sign the motor has been into. i would think all the numbers would match. on the other hand a lot of mota's has interchangable parts from factory. the diffrence is the bore,stroke,compression, but the blocks heads intake are all the same. good luck, i am sure others will chime in.

 

[Skip 7750]

Evinrude

235s have a hump in the exhaust tuner in the rear between the cylinders and 175s have a flat plate that looks like a valley cover.

The 235 hump sticks back a couple of inches and is kind of shaped like a side view of a butt. It runs the length of the block , in the rear between the cylinders.

It is a tuned exhaust which gives it a lot of the hp difference between a 175-200 vs a 235.

 

[jmshipp]

it is defintely a bubbleback motor. I guess I am wondering what those heads could be doing to the performance and what other things I should check to see what parts may have been swapped. My understanding is that the original heads on the 2.6 XP were pretty desirable. So, that makes me think someone swapped the heads. I know the motor was rebuilt. It was put on the boat a couple of years ago after the original was blown by the previous owner.

 

[Bill Gohr]

Here check this, this is what I'm assuming you have without checking part numbers.

The 2.6 and the 235 parts were taken out of production in 1986 when we came out with the big bore 175 which isnothing but a 235 with soft heads and the ports lowered like .100. So it will have a bubble back, and soft heads, look at the serial number on the block, if it is a 6 digit number it is the part number for a replacement PH which is what we gave 235 owners under warranty. I thinkk this because those sound like 84' 2.6 carb numbers and I think those are 87 175 head numbers, look them up, and yes, what you need are the original heads on that engine and that will really wake it up, if you take a head off look at the exhaust ports, the 2.6 had square ports, 235's and 175's did not. I could still be a 2.6 with soft heads, the 2.6 head numbers end in 638 and 639

 

[Water Bug]

The blocks with the hump on the back between the heads are looper motors the blocks that have a plate that can be removed between the heads are crossflo motors ,, there are several intakes made for the loopers and they affect your flow and have a lot to do with HP .. there are several types of reed blocks .. there are 3 sizes of carbs ,, your adapter plate could be any of three that I know of ,, not trying to confuse the problem but need pics and measurements to be of any real help to you any parts you need for a looper I will have .. if you need more info PM me I will send you my#

 

[Bill Gohr]

235's and 175's have a bolt on "hump" tuned exhaust between the heads, the modael number listed and the fact it has 3 carbs denotes it as a crossflow of the correct vintage

 

[Invader]

Mike,
Check the numbering on the shinny press in plug on the block at the top. The plug is about “1” in diameter. It should have an “S” after the 235 number. This will confirm you have a true XP/GT block. Regardless of the block, for best performance, use 1-3/8” diameter carbs, intake stuffer blocks, after market fiber reeds, and 638/9 heads. The heads and stuffer blocks will raise the compression and significantly improve acceleration. Any changes will probably require a little richer jets and less timing.

I’m been selling off all my crossflow 2.6 GT/XP stuff. I have a set of uncut 638/9 heads which are very hard to find. On the 638 head, #6 cylinder is damaged from a melted piston. I believe it can be repaired by a specialty shop. The rest of chambers are perfect for the pair. Please PM me if interested in the heads which I’ll sell for $90 shipped to your door.
Jeff

 

[jmshipp]

UPDATE

Thank you everyone for the information!

After digging on this all weekend, I found out this...

1 - The powerhead was swapped by the previous owner. I have the paperwork and he ordered a 1985 235HP powerhead. After looking at the it closely, he apparently did NOT get that. I called him yesterday and he said it did not suprise him. He said iBoats screwed him numerous times over this whole ordeal. He knows very little about boats and did not know what to look for.

2 - The powerhead has 235940 stamped in the core plug. Which tells me it is a 1979 235 small bore motor.

So, with that said, it still has the XP carbs on it. Has some low compression bathtub heads off of who knows what. And comes out of the hole like a pig on hot south georgia summer day.

Based on what I think, it is WAY over carb'd. It sucks down the gas. I have a feeling it is bogging coming out of the hole and seems to run OK once on plane.

I had the carbs rebuilt last year. When they rebuilt them, I am pretty sure they set it up as if it were a big bore XP. What I am thinking is I need to swap the heads to the '79 high comp heads. If I do a head swap, I should be good to go... or is there anything else I am going to need to do?

What do you guys think? Anyone that has some parts that might help me out, let me know.

I have dumped over $1K into this thing trying to get it right. The poor previous owner paid $4k for this mess... I have all of the reciepts. He is a federal agent and has offered to go to Florida with me to get someone at iBoats by the neck! LOL!

Thanks again guys!

 

[Bill Gohr]

Well that sucks so lets do this. Pull a head, check the bore, I have some 79 200 heads which are almost identical to the 235 heads, then lets check the carbs, back in the day we had people richening them up, also, look at the little tab on the top of the gasket, does it have a "V" notch in it? the good thing is the 2.6 had a longer tuner which will be good for bottom end.

Keep in mind IBoats is just a reseller, if you order a PH from them, they just get one from one of their dealers and it is dropped shipped to youl, so it could have came from anyone that has an account with them.

 

[sclemons]

He is a federal agent and has offered to go to Florida with me to get someone at iBoats by the neck! LOL!

If you can get a federal agent to help you crack some heads, go for it. when he's done helping you, send him my way, I've got two knees that I want capped (not mine) Might as well use our feds for something that makes us feel good for a change