Exciter Overhaul

[jallen355]

With some guidance and advice from some more knowledgable and experienced than myself, I add some dye to a second coat of resin in the transom area instead of trying to paint it. Here's what I got.

 

[jallen355]

Now it's time to add some more storage and some structure to mount new aluminum seat pedestals to replace the original plywood boxes that the seats originally bolted to (that were rotted).

I picked up a used teak ski locker w/the aluminum frame off fleabay for $35.00 from a boating salvage yard in "Joisey". This may seem basic to some of you, but this boat was never equipped with one and I am really looking forward to the additional stoagre it will afford.

I also incorporated a pair of 2x10's shaped to fit the contour of the hull and laminated in place to screw the new aluminum swivel pedestals to. These were resin coated, set into a layer of mat and covered with two additional layers of mat. Again, if they ever rot (not likely), they can be easily "shaved" off the floor and replaced.

 

[jallen355]

With that, the inside structure of the boat is now complete and ready for trim and rerigging. Both of which I will lay out in the near future in hopes of helping or at least giving others ideas and/or inspiration to save another Check from death.

 

[Old Hickory]

looks really good Jallen You said that 3M 5200 takes around a week to cure down in your part of Dixie; which type did you buy? I noticed on the 3M web site there are several types and some have overlap applications w/ differing cure rates. Also, did you just get the tubes or did you purchase the larger bucket as well? Thanks

Hick

 

[jallen355]

The 5200 I was using came from Home Depot. I was buying the tubes for a caulk gun. They had the blue label. I think they do have a "fast cure" 5200, but nobody local had it. The only place I could find 5200 locally for Boater's World, West Marine, and a local boat dealer. All were priced in the $18.00 a tube range. Home Depot sold the same tubes for $7.99 ea.

I know Boater's world carries the fast cure in the 4200 and I have used it before on my jack plate, but no fast cure 5200.

 

[Old Hickory]

Thanks There were two different blue colored tubes on 3M's site(light blue and dark blue); This one appeared to fit your description of bond and cure time. Is this the one you used?

 

[jallen355]

I'd say yes. That appears to be it. I'll see if I have an empty tube in my gun still. I think I disposed of them all, however.

Hey, don't forget about the dye in your resin if you haven't already thought to use it. It makes the sanding and grinding easier as you can see your work better. I have another friend who even suggested to mix a little gel in with the resin and dye although I did not try that one.

 

[LAAllison]

Rebuild Paint

Jamie, that looks real good--some good ideas in your post. My Enchanter is a bit different but still some good ideas. My seat arrangment will be some different but you are right on with the idea to keep water/rot out. Do you have any idea what the repaint was? Was it just cleared? It looks good.

Art



If it's slow it must be an OMC.

 

[Great East Predictor]

looks awsome
is that coosa board expensive? do you know how its strength compares to wood?

 

[jallen355]

I paid $116.00 for ea. 4x8x1/2" board. I would say it is definately "comparable" in strength to wood and 45% lighter.

Here's a link to the manufacturer's site that should answer alot of your questions better than me.

 

[Old Hickory]

jallen355,

Don't worry about tryin to find an old tube; I'm pretty sure you were using the Light blue label stuff.

Laminating question...When laminating your sheets together did you use a trowel to apply the 5200? And if you did, what was the notch depth on the trowel? Also, after the lamination was complete, how long did wait before you installed the part? 24, 48hrs, or did you wait untill it was fully cured?

Coosa question.....You used B-20, right?

Was going out today to pick up a few sheets for the transom, but it's raining like cats and dogs; I'll probably hold off untill tomorrow. Untill then it's back to grinding


GEP,

Coosa claims B-26 is 30% , B-20 is 45% lighter than comparable sheet of ply. Here in Nashville, Advanced Plastics prices are:

B-26 3/4" 4x8 sheet $195
B-26 1/2" 4x8 sheet $183
B-20 1/2" 4x8 sheet $129

looks to be a little more expensive the further you are from the factory

Coosa recommends you use B-26 for all structural applications ie; transoms; knees and stringers; and B-20 for decks and floors etc. When I spoke to the guys at Coosa, they wouldn't tell me its stronger than ply, but only that it's comparable or as strong as ply.

Hick

 

[jallen355]

Not sure about the trowel depth...or should I say...which side of the trowel I used. I was more concerned with coverage than thickness of the 5200 on the knees. The knee that I replace and had constructed was able to cure for at least a week as I recall held together with clamps. The kneee that I simply added one layer a coosa board to thicken it, the oem knee that is, was only allowed to cure for about 24 hrs. before being laminated.

I used B-20 throughout as recommended my Michael down here at Advanced Plastics and the boat repair yard I had originally contacted in reference to using coosa board.

I get a discount at Advanced becuase my neighbor works there. Plus all this free internet advertising for both them and Coos!!

 

[jallen355]

So with the stringers, floor, knees and batt. trays pretty much done, I realize that there is yet another need for resin. Although I have the original side pads in tact, they are in need of new upholstery. Imagine that!! Marine plywood was used to make the backing for them and is still in really good shape, but I feel the need to redesign them slightly to fit my ideas. I did not use marine plywood this time, however. I already had a sheet of 1/2 BC plywood hanging around and decided to remake the panels using it and encapsulate it completely in resin. The pieces could not possibly ever "sit" in water and my boat is garage kept anyway. They should last me a life time having been resin coated.

Anyway, I will lengthen them on both the front and rear edges.

On the front side, to have them terminate closer (within an inch) to the dash panel instead of stopping 3" before the dash.

On the rear, I extended them within an inch of the rear deck. They did stop a couple inches short of that and the rear seatback slipped down behind the side panels and retained the rear seat back in place. I do not think this was the original rear seat configuration.

I also actually shortened the rear bottem edge where the pads "swoop" down. I shortened them to sit on top of the flotation boxes instead of having to "flex" outward to hang down slightly below that level.

Kind of hard to explain, but the end result is quite nice.:cheers

The extra pieces in the pics are actually the battery tray bottems. Remember, this thread is in retrospect!

 

[merc245]

jallen, Heres a few pointers.The foam your using is good for side panels and such. But its not dense enough for seat cushions it will flatten out asap.I know this becuase it happened to me.Need to get commercial grade not retail.We have a factory outlet store call The Foam Factory thats sells the right stuff unfortunitly I didn't know this 3 yrs ago.

And you should put a layer of wool (syenthic) badding between the foam and your vinyl it helps fill in and smooths the cut edges of the foam. Badding is the stuff home quilters use in thier quilts.It comes in rolls in bags and go with the thickest. Its not that exspensive and does make your job look GOOD.

P.S. Don't forget SS Staples.

 

[jallen355]

Thanks Merc. The side panels and the rear seat base frame are the only pieces I will be upholstering myself. I would not use the foam I got for the side panels in a seat. I wish I had known about the layer of wool though. Not a real big deal though as I did not do anything really fancy and could easily redo them at a later date if the need arises. I did have the upholstery shop sew me up some welting/piping to staple along the edges to help fill any gaps between the backsides of the boards and the hull. They actually came out good.

I did use SS staples. Like $10.00 a box @ the Home Depot

The rear seat will be left to a professional for sure. We have a shop that does all of our upholstery work for the GM dealership I work for. The owner was telling me about the kinds of foam he will be using for the rear seat. He also mentioned using thicker foam in the bottem than the back. I had brought my boat to work this past Monday for the upholstery guy to get a look at what I wanted done. I was hoping he could have just taken the two pieces for the rear seat back to his shop and do them up, but he said he'd need the whole boat to get all the seams and piping to line up right. I'm supposed to drop it off next week. That's cool. It'll be a good time to clean up the garage while it's gone.

 

[jallen355]

I have pirnted out several pictures I've gathered of rear bench seats to give to the upholstery guy as references. Here is one of Trevor Wolf's boat that mlpeeps had listed for sale end of last year. This is what I hope to have my rear seat look like when complete. Our boats are nearly the same color inside and out.

I would like to find one of the rear cup holder assemblies. My boat did not have this piece. If anyone happens to have one hanging around collecting dust in their garage, I'd be interested in helping you clean up!

 

[Costa]

Wow what a fantastic job and documentation on the rebuild!!! Even I could understand what you were doing. Fantastic looking boat!!!

 

[jallen355]

Thanks Costa. Revisiting this thread made me realize that I have not posted the completed interior pictures. I can say the boat is now 99% complete and ready for many many more years of rot free fun!!

 

[yellowfiero88]

Stunning workmanship!

 

[SurfGreenTelecaster]

That is beautiful. I've always loved your boat.