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Glassing Balsa Core Question

groundloop

Active member
Hey, those of you who have had to replace core.... How much glass goes over the balsa? I'm rebuilding a bass boat for my son and found that I'll have to replace every last bit of core (probably wouldn't have started the project if I'd have known that). They originally used 3/8" plywood for the core, I'm replacing it with 3/8" balsa which should be lighter and stronger than original. When I deconstructed the boat I couldn't really tell how much glass was over the core, I want to get it right without going overboard.

thanks
 
Hey, those of you who have had to replace core.... How much glass goes over the balsa? I'm rebuilding a bass boat for my son and found that I'll have to replace every last bit of core (probably wouldn't have started the project if I'd have known that). They originally used 3/8" plywood for the core, I'm replacing it with 3/8" balsa which should be lighter and stronger than original. When I deconstructed the boat I couldn't really tell how much glass was over the core, I want to get it right without going overboard.

thanks


One layer of CSM 1.5 oz on the hull then the balsa core. Follow that with one layer of CSM 1.5 oz, then one layer of woven roving and finally two layers of CSM 1.5 oz. Have all your pieces cut out before starting, don't stop once you get started.

http://www.mertons.com/Reinforcements/chopped.html
http://www.mertons.com/Reinforcements/woven.html
 
Didn't Coop have a complete run down link in his signature?

He did at one time then removed the link to update it.

Here you go:

Here is how you fix bad balsa.
1. Figure out how big of an area needs repaired, and draw a mark a few inches beyond it.
2. Use some sort of cutting wheel that you can set how deep you are cutting. I have used a circular saw for this, until I found better tools it works great. Set your depth at about 1/4inch or less, and cut around the area you have marked.
3. Use something to pry under the edge of the glass. The only thing holding the glass down would be the good balsa that is still there. The rotten balsa should give way quite nicely.
4. Set the piece you cut out aside to use as a pattern for new glass. Make your new pieces. Make at least one piece the same size, and the rest a few inches bigger. Use either heavy roving or biaxial cloth.
5. Use a wide wood chisel and a hammer to chip away all the balsa that is exposed. Try to get as much out as you can before you break out the grinders. Its rotten, it should come out easy.
Go to someplace like www.fibreglast.com and order some new balsa. If you cant find any locally.
6. Use a sander or a grinder to clean up the inner skin.
7. Cut 2 pieces of 1-1/2 ounce fiberglass mat. The same size as your repair area.
8. Have your glass and balsa precut, then use your brush and wet out the repair area with resin. Then lay one of the pieces of 1-1/2 ounce mat on some cardboard and wet it down with resin, then take it and place it down in your repair area, and brush out all LARGE air bubbles. Don't worry about any small ones, as they don't matter for what you are doing.
9. Take your precut balsa and brush resin on the side that does not have the fabric holding it together, then quickly place it in the repair area over the still wet glass mat that you just placed in there. Use your hands to press it in as best as you can. After you get it in place. Take some wax paper and cover the entire repair, then cover that with cardboard. Place any kind of weight you can find on top of the card board. Books, magazines, newspapers, anything.
10. Now walk away for at least 2 hours. Have lunch, drink a wobbly pop, what ever you want, just leave it alone for at least 2 hours.
11. Now remove the weights, the cardboard, and the wax paper should have kept the cardboard from sticking, you are ready to continue.
12. Use a filler like dura-glass to fill in around the repair area, there will be some gaps between the old area and the new area. Fill these areas flush with the level of the new balsa, don't fill them to the level of the old glass layer. Let this set up. Then sand smooth if needed.
13. Brush a layer of resin onto the new balsa over lapping onto the old glass. Wet the other piece of 1-1/2 ounce mat on the cardboard again, then place the mat onto the repaired area. Brush out the LARGE air bubbles ONLY right now. Take the piece of biaxial glass or roving, that is the same size as the repair and wet it out on the cardboard. Then place it on top of the still very wet mat. Use a plastic or rubber squeegee to work all the air bubbles to the sides and out. Do this as good as you can.
14. Take the last piece of biaxial or roving and wet it out on the cardboard, the place it over the still wet glass you just laid down.
Use a squeegee to work all the air bubbles to the sides and out. Keep working at it until all the air is gone or the resin starts to set up.
15. Drink another wobbly pop, cause you just fixed your boat.
http://voices.yahoo.com/how-repair-damaged-balsa-core-old-boat-194125.html
 
Thanks Rob, I need to re-link that sometime. I thought I had a boat with some balsa problems that I could have done some videos on repairing it. Videos are paying me good.
Turns out the boat didn't have any balsa in it, which would have been a whole other fix if I wanted to take the time to restore it. She's at the bottom of a burn pile now.
 
No idea but welcome back, haven't seen you around for a long time, hope all is well!

Yeah, I don't visit for a little while and then come back to find out the Mother Ship is in upheaval. Hopefully all is well in Bucyrus now. I been pretty busy helping kids with homework, going to my daughter's track and cross country meets, etc. etc. etc.

That Johnson 200 I bought for the Eluder turned out to be a total piece of junk so I finally gave up trying to fix it and parted it out. I found an engine that I felt warm and fuzzy about, took some time doing major cosmetic repairs on the lower unit, and got it mounted on the Eluder. I got a free bass boat with it, my original plan was to sell everything off that boat that I could and then haul it to the dump. Well, I started feeling sorry for the boat, looked at it long enough to figure out that it could actually be a good fishing boat when fixed up, and here I am. I wanted my son to get some hands on experience repairing the boat so I made a deal with him that if he put as much time into it as I did I'd give him the boat when he graduates college in a couple more years.

I've pretty much got all the core in place already, I found the details on how to install it on the West Systems web site. My only question was how much glass is supposed to go over it, I didn't want to over do it and waste money, or not use enough and have a weak hull. I'm pretty sure it'll be stronger than new when I'm done, I've found a lot of places where the manufacturer cut corners, including using plywood for the core.
 
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