Has anyone had a problem with jack plate clearance when motor is titled full up while towing? While rigging my pulsare, I noticed that with the CMC 5.5 jack plate, that the dual cable steering bracket comes in contact with the back of the cmc plate. This usually happens when about half way tilted. The only options I see is, don't tilt all the way up or move the motor to the highest mounting position on the plate (this would put you in a high position without the possibility of going low if needed. Any thoughts? OldSchool
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Jack plate clearance?
- Thread starter OldSchool
- Start date
Has anyone had a problem with jack plate clearance when motor is titled full up while towing? While rigging my pulsare, I noticed that with the CMC 5.5 jack plate, that the dual cable steering bracket comes in contact with the back of the cmc plate. This usually happens when about half way tilted. The only options I see is, don't tilt all the way up or move the motor to the highest mounting position on the plate (this would put you in a high position without the possibility of going low if needed. Any thoughts? OldSchool
Let's see if this free pic hosting site is working for me. Here's a shot of my Promax/Pulsare before I removed the CMC jackplate and installed a 9.5" RapidJack Heavy Duty jack plate:
As you can see, the motor is mounted 'all the way up' on the highest setting on the jack plate. With the jack plate adjusted all the way down like you see here, the propshaft was about 3.5" to 4" below the pad. Deep enough for ski/tube duty.
As you can see, the motor is mounted 'all the way up' on the highest setting on the jack plate. With the jack plate adjusted all the way down like you see here, the propshaft was about 3.5" to 4" below the pad. Deep enough for ski/tube duty.
Hey guys! Here's a pic with the better jack plate I mounted later:
Also note the perfect hull placement on the trailer. Trailer adjustment has been a question before, here's what it SHOULD look like. As you can see with the RapidJack, the motor is now mounted lower on the plate as compared to the CMC. Basically a 'second hole' installation, which is typical of most outboards for all around use. The RapidJack only allowed a 3.5" verticle travel, so placement was more critical than the CMC which allows almost 6" of travel.
The lower unit you see here is called the TorqueMaster. The TorqueMaster is probably the best 'checkmate' lower unit available for boats that don't exceed 85 mph. It has heavy duty internals, and only 4 water inlet holes mounted low so that the lower unit can be run fairly high without modifiying for LWP.
The RapidJack I used here has a stainless steel plate under it that closes off the bottom of the jack plate, used as a planing aid.
Also note the perfect hull placement on the trailer. Trailer adjustment has been a question before, here's what it SHOULD look like. As you can see with the RapidJack, the motor is now mounted lower on the plate as compared to the CMC. Basically a 'second hole' installation, which is typical of most outboards for all around use. The RapidJack only allowed a 3.5" verticle travel, so placement was more critical than the CMC which allows almost 6" of travel.
The lower unit you see here is called the TorqueMaster. The TorqueMaster is probably the best 'checkmate' lower unit available for boats that don't exceed 85 mph. It has heavy duty internals, and only 4 water inlet holes mounted low so that the lower unit can be run fairly high without modifiying for LWP.
The RapidJack I used here has a stainless steel plate under it that closes off the bottom of the jack plate, used as a planing aid.
JUPITER PULSARE
Well-known member
I INSTALLED BOB'S MACHINE SHOP 2" SPACERS BETWEEN THE MOTOR AND THE JACK PLATE. THIS NOT ONLY INCREASED MY SETBACK BUT AIDED IN CLEARANCE OF THE STEERING RAM HYD. FITTINGS FROM HITTING THE GLASS IN THE SPLASHWELL WHEN THE ENGINE IS TILTED UP AND THE JACKPLATE IS DOWN.