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JL Audio M880 marine speakers

ForbesZ

Active member
Just thinking that four of these JL Audio M880 speakers might make a nice upgrade to the 6.5" Clarion co-ax speakers that came in my Pulsare:

http://www.jlaudio.ca/m880-ccx-sg-wh-marine-audio-m-series-speaker-systems-91322

Does anyone here have these speakers? Wouldn't mind feedback from those that have them or have at least heard them. I'm wondering if four of them on a good 4-channel amp would have enough kick that I could live without a subwoofer. They need 5-1/4" mounting depth so I have to pull the Clarions to see if I have the space.

Thanks!!
 
I don't know about them replacing a sub woofer, but I do know you can't beat JL Audio for marine speakers, so they will sound good!!!
 
I don't know about them replacing a sub woofer, but I do know you can't beat JL Audio for marine speakers, so they will sound good!!!

I agree. Have had JL in lots of vehicles and they're definitely top notch in my books. I just couldn't help but notice that the effective piston area of four M880 speakers is more than two 10" subs and their maximum linear excursion is pretty much the same. So mathematically speaking it seems that four M880's should actually be able to push more air than two 10" subs. The only question in my mind is how tight they made the suspension in the M880 woofers. If they're a lot tighter than a true subwoofer, the volume of frequencies below 80Hz probably rolls off pretty fast.
 
JL Audio speakers

I installed 4 of the JL Audio speakers in my Stiletto last summer and they crank. Of course you may want to still look at adding or keeping your sub if you want to rock the lake. I honestly prefer the sound of the open headers but that is just me.

My JL speakers also have LED Lighting and makes the boat very sexy at night. Here is what I ordered from Crutchfield:
JL Audio MX650-CCX-SG-WLD-B
 
Of course you may want to still look at adding or keeping your sub if you want to rock the lake.

Thanks. I don't currently have a sub and it would be great if I didn't have to add one. I have an outboard and it only has a 60-amp alternator, so I don't want the whole stereo to consume much more than 30 amps. My car stereo has blown 40 amp fuses on the subwoofer amplifier alone and it's only 100 watts. Mind you I have my car's sub amplifier bridged mono into two 4-ohm 12" subs wired in parallel, so the fact that the amp is seeing only a 1-ohm load might have something to do with it using upwards of 40 amps. :D
 
Thanks. I don't currently have a sub and it would be great if I didn't have to add one. I have an outboard and it only has a 60-amp alternator, so I don't want the whole stereo to consume much more than 30 amps. My car stereo has blown 40 amp fuses on the subwoofer amplifier alone and it's only 100 watts. Mind you I have my car's sub amplifier bridged mono into two 4-ohm 12" subs wired in parallel, so the fact that the amp is seeing only a 1-ohm load might have something to do with it using upwards of 40 amps. :D

Most amps can't handle a 2 ohm load when bridged mono. That's probably why you are blowing fuses. You should unbridge that amp and run each sub on it's own channel, or get a mono sub amp that can handle a 2 ohm load.
 
I have had good luck with JL for years now running the 7.7 ccs speakers. Typically run 4 mids and 4 tweets in the seating area, 12" in a ported box up in the nose with a base control knob under the helm and a 900/5 amp. A 4
Ohm load is key if you want to play all afternoon at the beach. I'm local to you and still have the boxes from my pulsar if you're interested.
 
Most amps can't handle a 2 ohm load when bridged mono. That's probably why you are blowing fuses. You should unbridge that amp and run each sub on it's own channel, or get a mono sub amp that can handle a 2 ohm load.

I agree with you completely - most amps can't take that that low of an impedance. However the amps in my car are 1 ohm stable. They were some of the best amps you could buy back when I bought them in 1995 (they are Rockford Fosgate Punch DSMs). The dealer that I bought them from told me that the amp I was using for my subs needed a 50 amp fuse when its bridged mono into 2 ohms so I put in the 50 amp fuse and it's still in car to this day (and its been 21 years with no issues). Those American made Fosgate amps from the mid 90's were outstanding. Them and the Orion HCCA amps. I had a friend with a Honda Civic with four tweeters, four 5" mids, four 8" mid-bass and four 12" subs all wired to his 2x25 watt HCCA and that thing was bonkers loud. I think he said it was running at 3/4 ohm impedance - it was nuts.
 
I have had good luck with JL for years now running the 7.7 ccs speakers. Typically run 4 mids and 4 tweets in the seating area, 12" in a ported box up in the nose with a base control knob under the helm and a 900/5 amp. A 4
Ohm load is key if you want to play all afternoon at the beach. I'm local to you and still have the boxes from my pulsar if you're interested.

Thanks for the feedback! Do the 7.7s have any amount of decent bass on their own? My Pulsare is the 2000 BRX bowrider so I'm not sure where a ported box would fit up front. Its got a full inner liner so there's no open space in the bowrider for a sub box which is part of the challenge of installing a sub. Maybe I should be asking if any Pulsare 2000 BRX owners have a subwoofer and if so where they put it.
 
The 7.7 are loud for sure, but I'd say they need the support of a sub for decent sound. I'm always surprised at how much power it takes to have good sound out on the water.
 
The JL M880's are too big a diameter for the rear speaker location in the Pulsare 2000 BRX. Where the rear speakers are located the liner is contoured around the speaker location, and the flat circle where the speakers can be mounted is just under 8" diameter. Since the M880s are 8.8" diameter they will overhang and look stupid. Looks like I'll have to go with M770s and some subs. So now I have to look for a place to put the subs.
 
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