• Welcome to the Checkmate Community Forums forums.

    You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions, articles and access to our other FREE features.
    By joining our free community you will be able to:

    » Interact with over 10,000 Checkmate Fanatics from around the world!
    » Post topics and messages
    » Post and view photos
    » Communicate privately with other members
    » Access our extensive gallery of old Checkmate brochures located in our Media Gallery
    » Browse the various pictures in our Checkmate photo gallery

    Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

    If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact support by clicking here or by using the"contact us" link at the bottom of the page.

MX-16 Video Restoration with Tim

I siliconed the inside and outside of the seam when I put mine back together. When you have to deck off you will find that the side of the hull get flimsy. I made some bracing out of wood and screwed it using the rivet holes. You'll want to make sure the hull doesn't get out of shape as you remove floor, stringers and transom. Lookin good :thumb:
 
Hey thanks for all the advice guys! I really appreciate it! Hope to have the hull in two pieces today.

The metal on the ceiling out there was there when I bought the house. Whoever built the garage did it. Not sure why but it is full of insulation above the metal so it's nice and warm :)
 
Nice job !!! I had dug everything out of mine in about 2 days . Floor, stringer and transom . My transom was VERY BAD ... But ill never have to worry about it again since I put Sea cast in it . I plan on keeping mine so I didn't want to have to do another transom in it . I don't plan ever taking it back apart period lol .
 
Last edited:
I used this product for all the holes and scratches In the hull . It works really well and is easy to sand .
watertight_zps9b5daaba.jpg

Now for fiberglass I had a lot of fiberglass matt laying around so that was what I used to put mine all back together . I also used poly resin because it was cheaper and the boat was built with it any how . But nothing wrong with epoxy it was just my preference to use poly . I also used a 2x4 for a stringer instead of 3/4 plywood. I also glued everything in place before it was glassed down . That's one good thing about this forum . Every one has their own way of doing things and you can see all the different ways to build your boat . I could have done mine a lot of different ways but I happy the way it turned out and I don't have any wood in the transom to ever Rot again . Its really nice to see another old Checkmate being saved . With mine I knew some of the history on it like where it was sold from New and who the seller was . So that had a lot of meaning to me and the Fact that he helped me all through my restoration meant the world . He is a great friend . You are making some wonderful progress you will have her done in no time .....
 
Hey you are really moving along on this project - great!

As I mentioned I haven't restored my boat yet but I did source a supplier for materials here in Canada (ie. no border crossing, duty etc.). Not sure of prices but you can check everything online and compare.

They are actually about 15 min from my home:

RayPlex Oshawa

Hope this helps,
David.
 
Awesome! You guys rock! Thanks for the share of experience Will. I think I will use a 2x4 as it will be much easier to work with.

I will look in to that filler as well.

Anyone else care to share on the what fiberglass sheet and tape to buy?

Thanks
 
You see that little red saw in the picture ? That is what I used through the whole restoration and it was fantastic . I bought it at harbor freight just as a throw away and it survived the abuse it got . It made cutting the floor out a breeze ...

IMAG0051.jpg
 
I would use a angle grinder to grind off the bondo like stuff holding the edge of the floor left. Then clean it up with a sander with 80 grit. Or that's what I did. I used about 6 gallons of epoxy from http://www.uscomposites.com/ it seams like that's the cheapest and what most used on here. But like you said shipping may be way to much. I also used 3 gallons of west system on my transom layup only because It was given to me by a family friend. What ever you pick will be fine.
 
Thanks guys. I have one of the tools will but all my blades are toast. I had intended to use it extensively throughout this repair but have yet to find blades in local stock :( I will keep looking.

I may go the grinder route too... are their special discs I can buy? I tried my air die grinder with a cut off wheel but it just bogs down in the bondo stuff. It's meant for metal.

I am back at it tonight for four or five hours so I should be able to take care of it either way :)

Again thanks guys! Tim
 
That's very cool , But just remember black will show any imperfections in the boat like a magnifying glass ... I wanted to paint mine dark blue like the stripe on the side but thought about how it would look in the sun so Chose white and Im NOT and fan of white but it works for the boat .
 
Please check your core. I used a product called bleach white . I dont know if they sell that over there or not . Its used to clean white wall tires . I sprayed it on the inside and scrubbed with a brush and sprayed out with the hose . I got lucky and mine was fine no dark spots . I could actually see nice clean dry balsa through the fiberglass . You dont want to do all this work and have rotten core .
 
timapexcomputer said:
paint1_zpse5072210.png
Click to expand...

I like to plan the interior first. Like a convertible the interior will be very visible. Especially when in the water, and it's the first thing the ladies look at. But the main thing is, it's a lot easier to match paint to vinyl colors than visa versa. I've done many hot rod interiors where the owner will have painted the car before thinking about the interior, and then struggle to find fabric colors that will match or accent nicely. Sooooo.... I would suggest looking at interior colors and fabrics before buying paint or..... gelcoat? Just my 2 cents, and that's all it's worth by the way. :D
 
I wanted to do gel on my V141 when ever I finally get the boat down state . I brought the idea up to my dad and he said he wasnt spraying it lol. So I might do that one in all white and just have him spray the whole boat with the interlux VC Performance Epoxy paint that I used on the bottom of the vmate . Its some really strong paint and super slick . I have to keep the boat strapped at the bow putting it in the water or it will slide of the trailer . It had said to wet sand it but we first cut the paint with 120 grit sand paper than rinsed it down and wet sanded it and than hit with the wheel . Its a semi gloss but mine has a really nice shine now and held up to being in the water over night . Its pretty good stuff . Just wish it was in other colors besides white . The top of my boat was done with polyurethane and is so bright you cant look into it with the sun on it .

I cant believe how fast you are moving along on this project . I keep checking to see all the updates .
 
I hope you're using a respirator. Don't worry you'll stop itching by July :lol:. The stuff on the floor is poly construction adhesive. It is used to bed the stringers so not to create hard spots where the hull will flex; which can cause gelcoat fatigue. I learned this after my floor was finished. :eyecrazy: I think I will be all right though. Epoxy is more flexible than Polyester and I bedded mine in a epoxy/cabosil peanut butter mix. On my next project I will put a strip of 1/4" solid foam between the stringer and the floor and epoxy over that. I don't think epoxy will bond to PL very well. There is plenty of discussion out there on this subject. Here is one thread. http://forums.iboats.com/boat-resto...air/stringers-pl-vs-peanut-butter-479956.html
Looking good. :thumb:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top