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MX-16 Video Restoration with Tim

No just talked to them again. Tape is all they can get. I get all my epoxy from them too. You would think this would be easy. I can get as much CSM as I want at the auto parts store, but no one in town has biax or roving. Guess there is not a lot of boat resto round here.

Ordering looks like the only option and its going to be costly :(
 
Boat Builder Central says:
Fibreglass cloth Biaxial 1708 17 oz with 8 oz mat - per yard $8.75

Ordering 4 yards
Checkout:
Total goods - $35.00
Standard Shipping - $62.00

Total - $97.00

$97 for 4 yards of fabric! YIKES

Gotta be a better way
 
Boat Builder Central says:
Fibreglass cloth Biaxial 1708 17 oz with 8 oz mat - per yard $8.75

Ordering 4 yards
Checkout:
Total goods - $35.00
Standard Shipping - $62.00

Total - $97.00

$97 for 4 yards of fabric! YIKES

Gotta be a better way

Hey Tim,

Try these guys out as they seem to have everything and they are actually in Canada (Oshawa).
Rayplex Composite Technology - www.fibreglass.com

Might save you some $$ and a lot of shipping time.

Hope this helps, David.
 
Thanks guys! Rayplex doesn't appear to have Biaxial with staiched mat and Mertons doesn't list shipping to good ol'Canada. I emailed them but the cost is usually prohibitive. :(

Still looking lol
 
When you install the last board make sure you add a nice radius around the perimeter. That will aid in the 1708 to lay down nicely. Looking good so far!!!:thumb:
 
Hey Tim, I can't believe how fast you are moving this restoration along - excellent!! (Can I bring my boat down when you are finished? lol)

I am not sure if I missed it but did you mention where you eventually purchased the 7-ply exterior wood for the transom? Was it at a local shop or a chain.

Thanks, David.
 
Hey. I finally found it at Rona but not in the store. Had to go out to the lumber area in the sheds they have and talk to the guy out there. He said "Yeah we got the exterior stuff! Won't find it in the store". They had a skid of 7 ply exterior. Very nice stuff too. Only $50 a sheet so it was cheaper than I had planned as well, which is always nice :)
 
How to match a compressor with an HVLP paint gun

You're not ready to paint yet but thought I would share this with you. I found this on another forum:



Saw the following article on line. Just got an HVLP paint gun to use with my 20 gal, twin piston, belt driven painting compressor. Compressor puts out 9 SCFM@40 PSI and 7.5 SCFM@20 PSI. Gun requires 6.5SCFM@40 PSI but 7.2SCFM@40 PSI for continuous use. According to the 15% rule in the formula below this compressor should work with this gun. Any thoughts? Am also using an inline desiccant and air filter.

Instructions.

Read the owner's manual of your HVLP paint gun for the specified CFM@PSI measurement the gun needs to function properly. The useful thing about HVLP paint guns is that they can run on relatively low pressure, but you must make sure to select a compressor that is within the pressure range of your gun. Normally, this is quoted as CFM@30PSI, 40PSI or 90PSI (example: 25CFM@90PSI).
2
Contact a few compressor manufacturers' help desks for more information regarding CFM ratings for your HVLP paint gun and some of their compressor options. Have the CFM rating for your paint gun available, and ask specifically if the compressors' ratings are similar to the ratings you are looking for. If they are more than 15 percent different, find a different compressor or manufacturer.
3
Find the highest possible CFM rating that your HVLP paint gun will be running on (this can normally be found in the owner's manual as well). Multiply the highest CFM rating by 50 percent. Add this number to the total CFM required. The number you come up with will be the highest rating of air compressor you should be looking for, as CFM ratings within 15 percent of this number will allow you to run your tools without over-taxing the compressor.
4
Check to see if your HPLV spray gun can operate on the CFM rating you determined in Step 2 by either testing a gun/compressor setup or by contacting the manufacturer of your paint gun and compressor manufacturers to inquire as to their compatibility. If you are satisfied that your compressor rating will provide the type of performance you are looking for, determine your budget and begin shopping around for the best deal on an air compressor within your specified CFM rating. Remember, it doesn't have to match your specs exactly, but it should be close.
5
Purchase the compressor and try the gun out on a small project to see if the spray looks satisfactory. If the compressor cannot handle the gun, now is the time to return for a larger model (since your compressor should still be under warranty).
Tips & Warnings
As a general guideline, an HLVP paint gun will require 25CFM@50PSI to spray a clean coat of paint. Look for a compressor in this range at the minimum.

 
Setting up a HVLP spray gun

Another article for setting up a HVLP spray gun

The Harbor Freight HVLP gun #38308 and the newer #43430 gun is a great gun to use for primers and will also do an excellent job with base color coats and high build clears.
It is a good gun for the part time painter as it puts on enough paint to do a good job, but not as much as an expensive production gun does that will get us novices in trouble. This is not a gun a professional would use for overall paint jobs, but I know a lot of pros use this gun for panel repair and primers. So if you are a part time painter who probably paints his rod in pieces and you need a gun that doesn't consume a lot of air I can recommend this gun. I spray with a 5 hp single stage compressor. This is probably the bare minimum you can get away with for an overall paint job (car in one piece).
For high build primers (mixed in highest build form) you might want to order their 1.7 Tip Kit for the gun from their service dept. (the gun comes with a 1.4 tip).
(Note: on 12-26-06 Robert Adams gave me this info on tips: HF part #25943 Nozzle Set (1.9MM) $29.57 and HF part #25942 Nozzle Set (2.2MM) $29.57. I have a couple of the 43430 and a few of the 47016 as well. They are the same base gun. The 43430 just has different knobs and a HVLP nozzle assm up front. Both work very well. Thanks Robert for this info)
No, I don't work for Harbor Freight, I just like to pass on a good thing when I know one and this is one case where a low cost item has great performance. The one bad thing about the gun is that the instructions are not very good, so I have made up the following instructions based on my experiences with the gun. Any feed back you have on the gun or these instructions is welcome. Sumner
Setting up and spraying with the Harbor Freight HVLP gun #38308 and the 43430
Pressure Adjustment: Open your compressor regulator up so there is plenty of air pressure in the line to the gun (I set mine to about 90 psi). Next set the regulator on the gun handle to 50 psi (what I use for DP40 and K36) with the trigger pulled and leave it set there. Close the valve at the bottom of the handle (on the gun, not the regulator) and then with the trigger pulled, open it to the point where the air volume starts to stay the same (just listen to it) and leave it there (it should be pretty far open at this point). I never mess with this after this unless I think it has been changed.
Note: On my two year old gun they say the maximum pressure is 60 psi. On my new gun it says 40 psi. Instead of the 50 psi above you might try 40 psi if your gun says 40 psi max.
Fan Adjustment: Next open the fluid volume control about 3 turns for starters (at the back of the gun). Close the fan control down (on the left side of the gun behind the nozzle) so when you spray you only get small round circle. With the gun about 6 to 8 inches from a test surface (I use the garage door or better yet some sheet rock, or masking paper) move the gun across the surface (about 6 to 8 inches from the surface) and pull the trigger. As you are moving turn the fan control until you get the desired fan shape/width (about 5-6 inches wide top to bottom oval shape for overall painting) (remember if you are spraying up and down on a surface you can change the nozzle at the front of the gun 90 deg. so the fan is horizontal).
Fluid Control: Next after getting the fan the right size continue spraying and adjust the fluid volume at the back of the gun for the final adjustment to get the fluid right for the gun speed (how fast you sweep it across the work). You want to be laying on the paint at a pretty good volume, but not causing runs at a normal gun sweep speed.
Changing the pressure to match spec sheets: Now you're ready to paint and with 50 psi at the handle the gun is spraying about 10 psi at the cap. If you want 5 psi at the cap put 25 at the handle regulator (8 psi = 40 psi, 7 psi= 35 psi, etc.). You can't actually see the pressure at the cap which is what the spec sheets are referring to. The gun is internally regulating the pressure down based on the inlet pressure. Some expensive guns have a gauge off the back of the handle that tells you the cap pressure and then they also have a regulator and gauge at the bottom of the handle like this gun that regulates the pressure into the gun.
Painting: Look at what your painting and the way the paint is going on the surface right behind the gun and adjust from there. For instance if you want to spray some small areas/parts you can turn the fan down to a small round size. You will also have to greatly shut the fluid volume down at the back of the gun (clockwise) at the same time to avoid runs. I usually turn the air pressure at the regulator on the handle down to around 25 to 35 psi to do spot work like this.
Proper Pressure: Remember you need a high air pressure (Set as the spec sheet calls for) so that you get proper atomization and so you can turn the volume up. The higher pressure will actually mean fewer runs since the atomization is better. This is not so critical with the primers, but you really need it with the sealer, base, and clear coats so you get good coverage without runs and with little orange peel.
Note: I'm not a professional painter, but the above is what works for me.
 
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