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my bottom repair thread...what to use?

illMATTic

illMATTic

Well-known member
i will be repairing the bottom of my budget starflight. i would like to discuss topics like materials to use, technique, and tricks of the trade.

years ago the starflight ran aground and was damaged. somebody did a piss poor job in repairing it and now it has opened up and rotted portions of the core.

the area i will be reparing is the very center v area on the hull. new wood will be added and i will as well as building a new V over it. all this will have to be done on the trailer. i have inspected the inside of the hull and it is flawless.

1) i will be using west system resins for this since i have it left over from my predictor resto.

2) what wood should be used? is plywood ok?

3) what mat should be used? i am not concerned with weight with this build. i want it strong. how many layers should be used? here is a link to a selection of mats https://www.fibreglast.com/showproducts-category-Fiberglass+Mats,+Scrim,+and+Mat+Tapes-13.html

4) what tips and tricks do you all have? in what order should i start this job?


this thread is for everyone to learn from. thanks in advance.:bigthumb:
 
Going to need a few pictures of the damage.
Does the damage go through the hull, can you see it from the inside of the V?
 
HHHMMMMmmmmmmm..........

Just thinking here, but what if you change that damaged V pad into a nice new solid flat pad like a Pulsare. I'm wondering if a making it a flat pad is easier than repairing the v-shaped pad, and maybe gain some speed in the process?
 
there is no damage at all inside. i will basicly be cutting out the outer layers of the V, replacing wood, and glassing over it.

whoever tried to repair this boat years ago, only used two layers of mat and bondo over top of that.
 
JW said:
HHHMMMMmmmmmmm..........

Just thinking here, but what if you change that damaged V pad into a nice new solid flat pad like a Pulsare. I'm wondering if a making it a flat pad is easier than repairing the v-shaped pad, and maybe gain some speed in the process?
Click to expand...


i would love to but i am not sure how easy it will be laying on my back under the boat.
 
Epoxy

illMATTic said:
i will be repairing the bottom of my budget starflight. i would like to discuss topics like materials to use, technique, and tricks of the trade.

years ago the starflight ran aground and was damaged. somebody did a piss poor job in repairing it and now it has opened up and rotted portions of the core.

the area i will be reparing is the very center v area on the hull. new wood will be added and i will as well as building a new V over it. all this will have to be done on the trailer. i have inspected the inside of the hull and it is flawless.

1) i will be using west system resins for this since i have it left over from my predictor resto.

2) what wood should be used? is plywood ok?

3) what mat should be used? i am not concerned with weight with this build. i want it strong. how many layers should be used? here is a link to a selection of mats https://www.fibreglast.com/showproducts-category-Fiberglass+Mats,+Scrim,+and+Mat+Tapes-13.html

4) what tips and tricks do you all have? in what order should i start this job?


this thread is for everyone to learn from. thanks in advance.:bigthumb:
Click to expand...

Your already on the right track because your going with the West System products. Its gonna be hard to do lying on you back and working overhead but it can be done. You might have to thicken your resin a little just be sure and wet out your mat or cloth befor you try to roll it out. With the experience you gained doing your Predictor you could be giving the advice.
Good Luck with your project.

Doug (Enticer1):cheers
 
if there is no motor on it right now, flip it over - its not hard - a freind of my works on wood boats and its the only way to do a floor repair
 
Without knowing how bad it really is I would have to agree w/ Chris. Its going to be damn near impossible to work with fiberglass upside down while the boat is still on the trailer. A few years back I had a Boston Whaler with some hull damage and what I did was flip the hull and cut out the damaged area (about 3'x2') and ground down the parimeter of the cut section, and scuffed the surrounding area about 6'' around the repair. I then cleaned the area with alcahol and layed down a few layers of mat and a final layer of roven. Then I tapered and smoothed the entire area with filler and painted on a few coats of gel coat. It came out pretty good and was super strong. I sold the boat and I still see it putting around every summer.
 
i am pretty sure i am looking for tips and techniques on glasswork, style of mat to use, things of this nature. the boat WILL be repaired as it sits on the trailer. fliping it is not an option.
 
It should be balsa in that pad. Rip the rotten balsa out and prep your area.

Pack the void with Duraglass, smooth to shape. Use some mat to cover that. Then fill and prime.




Thats the way I'd do it even if I flipped it over. The balsa in that area isn't enough to worry about replacing.

If you insist on epoxy, get some cab-o-sil and use that instead of the Duraglass.
 
How big is the damaged area?

Here is a link that may be helpfull. The repair can be done upside down as you say, but my concern is that you will have air bubbles and its just going to be a nightmare (dripping, fighting gravity etc..), but like you said anything can be fixed. I hope this link helps.
BTW, I asked one of our laminators what he would use for a final layer of glass on the bottom of the hull and he told me 1708 biaxial mat.
http://www.fibreglast.com/contentpages-moved-123.html

http://www.fiberglasssite.com/servlet/Detail?no=69
 
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icon1.gif
How big is the damaged area?
Click to expand...

i will most likly be replacing the whole v/pad area in about a 10' length.

i think i will just replace the balsa with some plywood, fill it, and glass it in. ill turn a salamander on it for a faster cure since ill be outside.

how many layers of mat should i use over the wood? i was looking at some 18oz woven on ebay for dirt cheap.
 
Stop by sometime, I've got some scraps of Roving, and 1708 Biaxial that I can give you to get you going. I'll even set you up with a few yards of mat if you want.
 
Matt, any reason you are hesitant to just throw balsa back in there? Cant speak much to what materials you would use, but I would think someone would be able to tell you exactly what the outer layer of a mate out of the factory would consist of as far as layers of mat etc. I have some small cracks on my pad that Im going to fix from the outside just to be sure they arent how water got into my core in the first place...... and like you I dont have an option of flipping it over. My plan is to add a little thickener, and do my best to minimize bubbling..... and then suck it up as the resin comes dripping down my arms and onto my face..:rof:
 
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