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NEW REBUILD BREAKIN PERIOD

persuader22

persuader22

Member
I JUST GOT MY BOAT BACK FROM BEING TOTALY REBUILT. IT WAS THE 454MAG 365HP. NOW .030 OVER 468 NEW EVERYTHING. THEY GAVE ME A SHEET SHOWING HOW TO BREAK IT IN PROPERLY. ITS SAYING ITS A 20HR BREAKIN PERIOD. THE FIRST 5HRS ITS SAYS NOT TO LET IT RUN LESS THEN 1500RPMS. ITS SAYS TO START AND GO AND KEEP IT BETWEEN 1500RPM -NO MORE THEN 4000RPM . DOES THIS SOUND RIGHT OR DOES ANYONE HAVE ANYTHING TO ADD THAT I SHOULD DO DURING THE BREAKIN PERIOD OF A FRESH REBUILT MOTOR.
 
during the first 5 hrs do not exceed 3500rpm or half trottle that includes trying to get her on plane .Do not run on any given throotle setting for than a few minutes. on the second 5 hrs advance slowly to full throtle for 2min or less .just to see what shes got otherwise 3500 or less on these 5 hrs.on the last 10 hrs run wide open for max 2 min at a time .keep a eye on the oil level religoiusly it will us some. some people will say (thats over kill or i used to to build race engines and we never brokeim in we just gave her hell). but u paid the bill so follow this advice and that 468 will run a long time keep on smokin bahahahas!!!
 
o yea did some one break the cam in yet.if not u will have to start the boat imeediately set the time than vary the rpms to 2200
 
If you have a roller cam, dont worry about the initial start up. If its a flat tappet, at first start up run the rpms above 2000 for at least a few minutes.
I am not going to go against your engine builders recommendation but how are you supposed to dock or idle down a no wake zone above 1500 rpm? When you bring your motor to a dyno, the motor is usually run in for about an hour at idle speed. Then after a cool down and check out, the engine is fired again, brought up to temp and put up against the dyno. Break-in done.
 
i think his engine builder is trying to say dont hook up the ears in the driveway fire it up and let her idle for hours on end .That leeds me to belive that it is a flat tappet cam; hence the no 1500 rpm idle; if its never been fired up.depending on what type of rings your pistons have also has a lot to do with breakin .true vinny if u get her hot,let it cool and get it hot again plasma moly rings will set,i dont know what a dyno run cost in your town but it aint cheep were im from 300 and some change.take the persuador slow for a while.you will thank your self later.
 
Well with out knowing what has been done (machine work wise) and what parts have been used, it is hard to say; but I say if the motor is built correctly then the only thing you really have to break in is the cam (provided it is a flat tappet) and heat cycle the valve springs a few times. As afar as breaking in a flat tappet camshaft, fluctuate the rpms between 2000 and 3000 rpms for about 20-30 mins, shut it off, let is cool down, change the oil and filter. Take it out, run it moderately <4000 rpms for 1/2 hour or so at operating temp, let it cool completely back down, then do that one or two more times, change the oil and filter again and give it hell. If it is a roller cam, you can skip the first step, but I would still only run it for a half hour or so before changing the oil and filter the first time. Once the springs have been heat cycled a few times it should be good to go.
 
IT IS A FLAT TAPPET, THEY REPLACED MOST EVERYTHING, THEY USED ALL MERCRUISER PARTS IN IT.I JUST WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT IT IS DONE PROPERLY SO I DONT RUN INTO THIS SITUATION AGAIN.
I WASNT VERY PLEASED WITH THE PEOPLE I USED, BUT ONCE IT WAS ALL TORE DOWN I WAS KIND OF COMMITTED TO THEM.IM STILL TRYING TO GET SOMETHING IN WRITING FOR A WARRANTY. HE CLAIMS JUST BRING IT BACK WITH PROBLEMS, BUT I WANT IT IN WRITING. HE ALSO NEVER GAVE ME ANY KIND OF PARTS LIST THAT THEY REPLACED OR THE AMOUNT OF EACH PART. I WOULD LIKE TO SEE EVERYTHING THEY DID. AND PLUS IF I EVER SELL THE BOAT I WILL HAVE SOMETHING TO SHOW THE NEW OWNER.THE TOTAL BILL JUST FOR THE MOTOR WAS $4800 THEN THEY REPLACED THE BELLOWS, GIMBLE BEARING, U-JOINTS,WATER PUMP, PLUGS AND WIRES, TOTALING ANOTHER $1700 SO I WOULD LIKE MORE DOCUMENTATION. THANKS FOR THE ADVISE IT TS NICE TO HAVE A GROUP THAT CAN ANWSER YOUR QUESTIONS AND NOT GET CHARGED FOR IT.
 
Originally posted by johnboyz85:
What kind of things do u find out on a dyno run . hp at certain rpm . what else.Just curious, not being sarcastic.
Click to expand...

Sorry but I have to ask this ... The question you asked here is a basic beginners question. How can you not know this and post the advice you gave on breaking in a new engine here on this thread?
 
ijust had my motor rebuilt and elite marine the company that built it for me gave me a list of things to follow on breakin .hey and guess what no problems yet there turbo.Not a beginner there vinn , just not a certifided dyno motor tech like yourself.Just passin on advice given to me that seemed to work great. aint that what this site is about.Not everyone in the world is born knowing everthing.I like one uppers.
 
Not trying to make enemies here. But, as others can tell you here, I get pissed off when I see someone post advice that they dont know for sure is accurate. I didnt know you were posting a break in procedure that was given to you. I have been doing this for a long time. I dont agree with the procedure you posted, but thats my opinion. When it comes to engines and drives, there is not many who can teach me too much. Guys here may spend their money on advice that is given here. This game costs alot already, dont want to see anyone spend more than they have to. I never post a reply here about outboards, I am the first to admit, I dont know anything about them. I dont know much about superchargers either. I would never steer anyone wrong just to see my post count grow. I almost never post here on anything other than the tech section.
That said, to answer your question about dyno pulls... A dyno pull will give you a computer print out and graph of your h.p and torque at an rpm range that you specify . That gives you the ability to see where your motor is producing peak power. The curve can be adjusted by countless methods to optimize your engines performance for your application. Once you get it fine tuned, you can prop accordingly.
The next big plus to a dyno pull is its ability to map your fuel curve. While that certainly helps you set the jetting of your carb, it is a huge plus in todays EFI engines. Its better to pay a dyno shop to set up your fuel curve than blow holes in the pistons trying to set it up on the water.
 
vinny i totaly appriciate your info on dyno pulls.I would not try to lead anyone in the wrong direction by no means .im not hear to make enemies either.I was giving persuader 22 another shops advice to compare to his shops advice. thats it .I appologize.
 
No need to apologize. We are all here to learn something. Sometimes I take this too seriously. I am just extremely anal when it comes to cars and boats. I am the idiot you see doing a head stand in the bilge polishing nuts and bolts.
 
I TALKED TO THE ENGINE BUILDERS TODAY, THEY ARE MAILING OUT A COMPLETE PARTS LIST AND WRITTING EXACTLY WHAT THEY DID TO THE MOTOR. HE SAID I SHOULD HAVE IT BY MONDAY. THEN I COULD TELL YOU EXACTLY WHAT THEY DID TO THE MOTOR . THE GUY I TOOK IT TO SENT THE MOTOR OUT TO HAVE THE WORK DONE SO HE WAS KIND OF THE MIDDLE MAN AND CLAIMED HE WASNT ENTIRELY SURE WHAT THEY DID. SO I CONTACTED THEM TOADY TO HAVE THEM PROVIDE ME WITH EVERYTHING WRITTEN DOWN INCLUDING A COMPLETE PARTS LIST TO.
IVE HEARD GOOD THINGS OF THE PLACE THAT DID THE REBUILDING SO HOPEFULLY THEY DID A GOOD JOB.
 
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