• Welcome to the Checkmate Community Forums forums.

    You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions, articles and access to our other FREE features.
    By joining our free community you will be able to:

    » Interact with over 10,000 Checkmate Fanatics from around the world!
    » Post topics and messages
    » Post and view photos
    » Communicate privately with other members
    » Access our extensive gallery of old Checkmate brochures located in our Media Gallery
    » Browse the various pictures in our Checkmate photo gallery

    Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

    If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact support by clicking here or by using the"contact us" link at the bottom of the page.

Not fast enough!

I just had another thought on that.. when I put new timing trigger in I had to adjust the timing a lot from where the old one had been.. I also had a junk cdi box so I wonder if spark was erratic and not giving me a correct spark to time by.. ill recheck it tonight tho!
 
Need some input here sence I minuse well try something different with prop seems to be a concencus.. as someone stated doing a 19p 4 blade should be perfect for my setup.. I don't wanna dump $300-400 on a stainless one as i have no idea if this is my problems.. can anyone recomend another good aluminum?? Was looking at the solus amita4 and the merc spitfire 4 blade both in the $150 range.. also they seem to be a 12.5" diameter or a 14" diameter which would be better for me having a 13.25" now?
 
Can't comment on diameter but we put an Amita 4 on my dad's boat and it works well. Search Amazon.com and Google shopping, they can be found cheaper that $150.

John
 
I would look for a used stainless before I spent anything on an aluminum prop.

I know Wired dislikes them but I would look for an even numbered LazerII prop. The even numbers have the small diameter hub. They run well when they are deep in the water like you are. They are priced right as well.

We have seen an Enticer with a 115 merc run 62 mph with a 26p LazerII. Not too bad.

Good luck.
 
I'm not very familiar with the anode style that's used on outboards but I tried to swap props on a I/O boat recently and the larger diameter prop didn't clear.
 
I would look for a used stainless before I spent anything on an aluminum prop.

I know Wired dislikes them but I would look for an even numbered LazerII prop. The even numbers have the small diameter hub. They run well when they are deep in the water like you are. They are priced right as well.

We have seen an Enticer with a 115 merc run 62 mph with a 26p LazerII. Not too bad.

Good luck.

Its not that I dislike them. Ive got a 23 pitch Lazer II and Ive run it 73 MPH. Its just that it takes a lot of moving up and down to get it in its sweet spot and to be honest the holeshot isnt any better than a 26 pitch big eared chopper.

The only Aluminum prop Ive ever used that was worth a damn was the Solas Amita 3 in 19 pitch but I blew it apart after a month or so. It'd be a good prop run deep. I used a Amita 4 for a bit with my old 140 HP Johnny it was too small of a diameter and never did bite the water well.
 
I'm not very familiar with the anode style that's used on outboards but I tried to swap props on a I/O boat recently and the larger diameter prop didn't clear.

They make anodes for both outboard and I/O that don't have the tab sticking off, that will give you as much clearance as no anode at all.

John
 
They make anodes for both outboard and I/O that don't have the tab sticking off, that will give you as much clearance as no anode at all.

John


I use one of the flat anodes. If you do you'll want to form or bolt on a tab on the skeg or you'll be fighting the rear end crabbing.
 
Anode tab doesn't do anything at speed anyways. Even running the prop deep it doesn't get clean enough water to do much. Made zero difference on my I/O too.

John
 
On the anode tab I swapped to newer style one which is smaller than my orignal one I couldn't clear any prop I tried for some reason I'm guessing the motor ran a small diameter prop to begin with maybe that's why I'm having these issues to begin with. So that makes sence why you can run the bigger even numbers w stainless its because they are smaller diameter on lazer 2.. I may go grab my buddys 22p stainless off his 115 to try it out before anything.. I wouldn't mind spending the money on the good stainless prop if I knew that was my issues for sure otherwise I don't wanna dump a ton of money into this motor if I'm just gonna have to repower again..
 
Ok so I just found something else.. the lower unit is totaly different on mine compaired to the 86 115 parts motor I have mainly the hub diameter is 4" on mine and 4.5" on the 115... does this maybe have the smaller gearcase on it or is it just the difference in years?
 
Back
Top