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Pad question?
- Thread starter blkz28
- Start date
Basically what a pad does is allow you to get better lift.
The better lift comes via the fact you're up running on just the pad itself.
That allows you to run your boat with less friction, which let's you to run faster than you would with a stadard non-pad V-Bottom hull.
The better lift comes via the fact you're up running on just the pad itself.
That allows you to run your boat with less friction, which let's you to run faster than you would with a stadard non-pad V-Bottom hull.
Boston Predictor
Well-known member
Not only is there less friction but the boat is kind of balancing on the pad if you can imagine that, making it more stable. A pad also helps you plane faster. Many have modded the pad of a hull, just check out 175checkmate's trimate overhaul thread.
F150GT
Member
Welcome to the world of flying a boat, loose is fast.
The down side of a pad is you give up some ride quality in waves and they dont carv as tight a turn.
You may need to do some work on your set up, a little change in engine height or prop selection can make a big diffrence in the way it handles.
The down side of a pad is you give up some ride quality in waves and they dont carv as tight a turn.
You may need to do some work on your set up, a little change in engine height or prop selection can make a big diffrence in the way it handles.
Pad, modding a pad. Who me?
The guys are spot on about the pad.
What the pad does is reduce the wetted area of the running surface.
In English, the hull will go from running on the back portion of the hull the width of the hull area. At about 55mph the hull will lift with the aid of the strakes on the sides of the hull running fore and aft.
Each hull will lift at a different speed, due to weight, pad width and set up. Think of a water ski.
With my trimate at about 65 mph it would become a handful. The factory bottom did not have a pad installed. So I added one. Its a 9.5" wide 7' long pad, will it work. I hope so, but it has yet to be tested.
The wiggle you are feeling in the stern can be caused by loose steering, worn motor mounts or the prop.
The guys are spot on about the pad.
What the pad does is reduce the wetted area of the running surface.
In English, the hull will go from running on the back portion of the hull the width of the hull area. At about 55mph the hull will lift with the aid of the strakes on the sides of the hull running fore and aft.
Each hull will lift at a different speed, due to weight, pad width and set up. Think of a water ski.
With my trimate at about 65 mph it would become a handful. The factory bottom did not have a pad installed. So I added one. Its a 9.5" wide 7' long pad, will it work. I hope so, but it has yet to be tested.
The wiggle you are feeling in the stern can be caused by loose steering, worn motor mounts or the prop.
blkz28
New member
the steering is nice and tight the only problem i see with the steering it is a single cable. is hydraulic worth it or is twin cable fine. and what is the biggest motor people have put on these boats. what im getting at is this boat capable of 75mph safely or should i get a differant boat. right now it does 65 all day with a best of 68 both on gps but at 68 it wasn't stable at all
Dual cable will be a great upgrade as well as a foot throttle.
Sounds like you are going to need to play with the set up a bit.
Not sure what the max HP anyone has installed on the back. My trimate is 16' and I have a hopped up 2.4 200hp + hanging off the back. Foot throttle, trim on the wheel and a 6" jack plate.
Before I started the overhaul on my boat I was running right at 70 mph. I tryed a lot of different props during the quest for speed. The wrong prop and the boat was pain to drive. Also is the jack plate was to deep, the boat was a pain. But when I nailed the set up and prop, you could drive it with one hand.
Sounds like you are going to need to play with the set up a bit.
Not sure what the max HP anyone has installed on the back. My trimate is 16' and I have a hopped up 2.4 200hp + hanging off the back. Foot throttle, trim on the wheel and a 6" jack plate.
Before I started the overhaul on my boat I was running right at 70 mph. I tryed a lot of different props during the quest for speed. The wrong prop and the boat was pain to drive. Also is the jack plate was to deep, the boat was a pain. But when I nailed the set up and prop, you could drive it with one hand.
rudeattitude
New member
I have a 1985 18' Sidewinder SS and I added a pad last year. Prior to the 9" x 5' pad, it would start chinewalking bad at about 67 mph and I would get drenched by any size chop. Needless to say, it was a wet ride! The pad gave better lift and stability. The chinewalking is gone and it is a MUCH smoother ride. No more kidney pounding or getting wet. As mentioned earlier, the turning is not as sharp, but not that different to even think twice about. I'm currently running a 200 looper. I'm powering up to Merc 280 or so. Should be flying with the added pad!!!
I'd do it again in a heartbeat, but remember...every hull will react differently. Mine needed the help...
I'd do it again in a heartbeat, but remember...every hull will react differently. Mine needed the help...
83PREDICTOR
Well-known member
"Bill Nye the hull guy" Chris
Very funny
Very funny
6", Wow. That would explain allot of your handling trouble. Time to get the motor up.
To measure how far the motor is down.
Lower the front of the trailer. You want to be able to trim the motor down until its vertical.
Use a straight edge and place it on the bottom center of the hull. Center of the pad.
Now measure the distance from the straight edge and the center of the bullet on the lower unit. This will give you the distance the prop shaft center line is below the bottom of the boat. 3-3.5" is a good place to start.
To measure how far the motor is down.
Lower the front of the trailer. You want to be able to trim the motor down until its vertical.
Use a straight edge and place it on the bottom center of the hull. Center of the pad.
Now measure the distance from the straight edge and the center of the bullet on the lower unit. This will give you the distance the prop shaft center line is below the bottom of the boat. 3-3.5" is a good place to start.
smallblockford
Member
you have some set up issues, i dont think you need to go into pad so much 175 checkmate is right if you have the moter that deep, that is one problem and i am sure you will have a few other things to work on in the set up