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Painted vs. Gel Coat

remlinger

Active member
Looking to restore my 88 enchanter and thinking about repainting the hull. How well will a painted hull hold up sitting in the water for a season vs. Gel coat.

Any thoughts?
 
gel coat is much strong IMO, I painted a boat and the painter did not do a good enough job on the bottom of the hull and after one season it was all peeling off. He even used imron paint, just not properly prepped I think. Gel coat is like a rock and will last longer, so if you plan on keeping it, its the way to go.
 
I asked my glass guy about it, he says paint will fall regardless of prep work. unless you use a dedicated bottom paint - which is ugly if you ask me. my boat will be regelled, i am going to try it myself - should be interesting.
 
there is no paint that will last on a hull. even dedicated hull paints need recoats(yearly in the southern salt water, about every five years in the northern fresh water). it greatly depends on your water, ambient temperature, and how often you use your boat.
gelcoat is the way to go, but alot of work! If you are keeping the boat, it is worth the effort!
 
Not trying to hi-jack the thread, but i was wondering what you think about paint/gelcoat on the top-half? I have a section on the top where there's a painted black stripe that is ugly and the gecoat has gone away. I thought about taping over it as a temp fix, but talked to a local body shop and they noted they could spray over it for a decent price? If kept waxed and washed, should it last a few seasons? The boat wont sit in water more than over night and never sits outside w/o a cover on it.
 
winter,
You'd be better off to paint, only because of the labour involved in gelcoat work. The paint will last a long, long time without any problems. The only issue you would have is, if you run it under a dock it would scratch easier than gelcoat.
I would recommend Endura EX-2C 2-part paint system. You mix it 50:50 and you don't have to thin it with anything. It can be cleaned up while still wet with laquer thinner(ie. to clean out your gun). You can roll it, but spraying gives you a MUCH nicer finish. It has a 8-12 hour pot life, and 20-30 minutes between coats to flash. Just make sure you get a good resporator, or it WILL knock you on your a@*!!
 
I agree with whatt aqua said. I have a color stripe above the water line that needs redone from 20 years of banging in to the dock. I called Mike at the Checkmate factory to get the gel coat color number and he basically talked me out of doing that. For just a color stripe, above the water line, topside paints (Mike recommended Imron) are so much easier. I'll be posting pics of the paint job in the gel coat and paint area next month. I am buying the paint now and waiting for warmer weather to do the job (still in the 30's here)
 
I agree with whatt aqua said. I have a color stripe above the water line that needs redone from 20 years of banging in to the dock. I called Mike at the Checkmate factory to get the gel coat color number and he basically talked me out of doing that. For just a color stripe, above the water line, topside paints (Mike recommended Imron) are so much easier. I'll be posting pics of the paint job in the gel coat and paint area next month. I am buying the paint now and waiting for warmer weather to do the job (still in the 30's here)

If your using Imron make sure you have the proper respirator.
 
I agree with whatt aqua said. I have a color stripe above the water line that needs redone from 20 years of banging in to the dock. I called Mike at the Checkmate factory to get the gel coat color number and he basically talked me out of doing that. For just a color stripe, above the water line, topside paints (Mike recommended Imron) are so much easier. I'll be posting pics of the paint job in the gel coat and paint area next month. I am buying the paint now and waiting for warmer weather to do the job (still in the 30's here)


at a dealership i worked at, a customer ordered a boat with thin striping on it then changed his mind and wanted a thick hull stripe. we brought a tape guy in and he deceled it with 3m vinyl. when he was done, you'd never know it wasn't gel - and way, way cheaper
 
not with rolling....try using interlux one part poly, stuff is good !!! and I have used it on the bottom with no peeling, and can be sanded and buffed, Rob
 
gelcoating

You get what you pay for with paint. Gelcoat is not that much to spray and it doesn't take expertise to shoot it. If you are gonna keep the boat, gelcoat it. Paint is no where close to being as durable and workable as gelcoat. if you have a guy that sprays primer, he can use the same gun to gelcoat.
 
What is required, and how hard, is it to gelcoat a boat? I was under the inpression that gelcoat had to be sprayed into a mold before the chopper gun blew in behind it to make the hull/ topside? I didn't even know gelcoat could be sprayed on to re-color a boat FROM the outside?!?!?! KEWL! THIS might be the road I need to investigate! I have sprayed a boat before ( decent results too ) - but hate the low durability pain offers- would be VERY interested in getting educated on how to shoot new gelcoat over my boat! I don't mean to hi-jack anyones thread- and can start another thread about HOW to gelcoat and what all is involved for prep, etc... Thanx again to everyone on here! Without you guys I wouldn't be as far as I am right now!
 
I just shot the sides and top of my boat (trailered...) with ppg concept 2021 and after cutting it looks amazing! it's also very tough and even after a few days curing sands like granite. two wet coats, let it cure a few days, scuffed and two more wet coats. wet sanded with 1000, 1500 and 2000 then buffed it out with meguires diamond cut 85. WOW. Note that I'm NOT a professional painter and did it in the yard and garage. I did the sides with a cheaper clear a few years ago and it has been holding up just great.

that being said, this time around, when i was playing with some repairs in areas where the original flake / gel paint job was screwed up, I shot it with clear gelcoat thinned with styrene and then once I had it the way I liked it, shot fast drying clear acrylic over the top to seal it off so it would cure. Figured i was going to black sand it anyhow, so why not. it even worked to use xylenes to wipe the acrylic off the top after then scuff it and clear with urethane in a couple spots...

I'm thinking that as I get ready to finish out the bottom a little differently than it is now, I'll do the same thing with gel and clear.

Just something to think about...
 
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