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Plywood for transom from Lowes

I just used whatever menards had in marine grade... dont think it was douglas fur. I think as long as it doesnt have any voids you should be good. Hopefully someone with actual knowledge of boat building will reply.
 
Just like mentioned before make sure it is free of voids. I used Douglas Fir Marine grade without voids. 4'x8'x3/4" was like $96 per sheet.
 
Not sure how fast you need to get the 3/4" plywood, but Boulter Plywood in Boston caries an extensive inventory of Okoume BS-1088 marine grade plywood. Since your at half the distance to Boston as I am you may find it worthwhile.

Okoume is a excellent product to use. Follows a rigid quality standard. It's as strong as Meranti Hydra-Tec but lighter. I've used both. I prefer the Okoume because it is lighter. I didn't hesitate to drive the 6 hours from Cape May, NJ to pick it up. (Bought an extra amount while I was there). I don't care what wood the big box stores sell. They buy inventory by the BEST PRICE and that doesn't coincide with quality even though they are not bashful about what they charge.

When it comes to the transom I don't want to worry, especially when Checkmates like big HP hanging off the back.

No, I'm not a BOX STORE hater. Just a person that deals in common sense.
 
Plywood

If you want the strongest and the best plywood to use, 4 x 8 Baltic Birch with ext glue is by far the best way to go. Marine grade fir and ext Fir ply use the same glue. The only difference is the marine grade has far less core voids. Suppose to have zero, but that is not the case.

Just make sure you get 4 x 8 Baltic Birch with EXTERIOR GLUE!!!
Two layers of 3/4" Baltic Birch, that transom will be bullet proof!

Buy it at a real Lumberyard or Plywood co. Stay away from Home Depot or other big box stores. Should cost about $70-$75 per sheet of 3/4".

To be honest, anything will probably work, but if you are going to all the work to replace the transom, why not use the best materials that are available.
 
JT Patroni said:
Not sure how fast you need to get the 3/4" plywood, but Boulter Plywood in Boston caries an extensive inventory of Okoume BS-1088 marine grade plywood. Since your at half the distance to Boston as I am you may find it worthwhile.

Okoume is a excellent product to use. Follows a rigid quality standard. It's as strong as Meranti Hydra-Tec but lighter. I've used both. I prefer the Okoume because it is lighter. I didn't hesitate to drive the 6 hours from Cape May, NJ to pick it up. (Bought an extra amount while I was there). I don't care what wood the big box stores sell. They buy inventory by the BEST PRICE and that doesn't coincide with quality even though they are not bashful about what they charge.

When it comes to the transom I don't want to worry, especially when Checkmates like big HP hanging off the back.

No, I'm not a BOX STORE hater. Just a person that deals in common sense.
Click to expand...

I spoke with Boulter Plywood, Prices are reasonable. What type of Okoume did you use and what thickness.

My transom is looks like it is 1-1/8 thick. I'm thinks of going 1-/1/2. by getting one 3/4 4X8.
 
2015VXR said:
I spoke with Boulter Plywood, Prices are reasonable. What type of Okoume did you use and what thickness.

My transom is looks like it is 1-1/8 thick. I'm thinks of going 1-/1/2. by getting one 3/4 4X8.
Click to expand...

I used 1/2" Okoume BS - 1088 - 3 layers plus 1 layer of 1/4 Okoume for a total thickness of 1-3/4". I doubt you would need more than 1-1/2" thickness. You just have to make sure of your clearances under the deck.
I wanted a bullet proof transom and got it. not that I needed it. You can look over my resto located in my signature.
 
The transom is made from 3 layers of 1/2" and 1 layer of 1/4" hydroteck marine BS 1088 plywood. The original transom had the 1/4" up against the hull skin. There is a step in the skin at the top where the deck joins the hull. The 1/4" plywood fits under that step and the 1-1/2" continues up another 1-1/4". I beveled the bottom at a 16 degree angle to match the hull. This will make it easier to get a complete water tight seal to prevent water from getting into the end grain of the plywood. Once the plywood is epoxied together all the exposed end grain will be sealed with 1.5 oz CSM for added protection.

Read more: http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/jtpatronimfg/media/bWVkaWFJZDoxODU5OTYyNQ==/?ref=1#ixzz52fH2mp2h

Thanks,
You talk about a step in the hull, is that at the extiror fiberglass?
 
2015VXR said:
The transom is made from 3 layers of 1/2" and 1 layer of 1/4" hydroteck marine BS 1088 plywood. The original transom had the 1/4" up against the hull skin. There is a step in the skin at the top where the deck joins the hull. The 1/4" plywood fits under that step and the 1-1/2" continues up another 1-1/4". I beveled the bottom at a 16 degree angle to match the hull. This will make it easier to get a complete water tight seal to prevent water from getting into the end grain of the plywood. Once the plywood is epoxied together all the exposed end grain will be sealed with 1.5 oz CSM for added protection.

Read more: http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/jtpatronimfg/media/bWVkaWFJZDoxODU5OTYyNQ==/?ref=1#ixzz52fH2mp2h

Thanks,
You talk about a step in the hull, is that at the extiror fiberglass?
Click to expand...

I'm not sure which part of my rebuild pictures you are relating to.
 
2015VXR said:
its the one that has the picture of your transom on the table before it was installed.
Click to expand...

Okay, it looks as if you are referring to the small step at the top. That 1/4" Plywood stops below the top surface because there is an off set in the fiberglass where the deck connects to the hull. I'll go back to the album and get the photo that best shows what area I'm referring to.
 
If you go to the 7th picture before the one you copied and paste here you can see the inward step at the top of the hull. That is where the deck connects to the hull so that the outer surface of the deck is smooth with the hull. That area is flat so the rub rail trim can be applied.That step in the hull is as close to 1/4" as you can get.

As I said before I did overbuild the strength at the transom in comparison to the factory. My hull is rated for 300 HP according to the factory. I wanted the EXTRA (LOL) strength if I decided to hang a 300 on back along with a lot of set back. But for the next guy that buys this hull he'll never have to worry about breaking the transom.

Wasn't needed for my use because I hung a 200 directly on the transom. No jack plate. I still hit 62 with a 24P Raker, shaft at 6" below. I actually run out of prop. If I trim the motor out it will scream past 6000. That is not good for my motor. I looked for a 26P & 28P Raker but didn't want to spend the money.
 
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