Pulse 185 chine walks

[jkeiper]

My Pulse 185 chine walks anything above 60 mph (gps) very bad. I called Checkmate and talked to one of their techs and they told me to set the motor so the cavitation plate was three inches above the pad. I did that and I gained 1.4 mph top end but the chine walk continues. I see you guys are recommending prop shaft three inches below the pad for a pulsare. Should that apply to a pulse also?

Thanks!

Jim

Hot babes and cool boats.

 

[jkeiper]

My Pulse 185 chine walks anything above 60 mph (gps) very bad. I called Checkmate and talked to one of their techs and they told me to set the motor so the cavitation plate was three inches above the pad. I did that and I gained 1.4 mph top end but the chine walk continues. I see you guys are recommending prop shaft three inches below the pad for a pulsare. Should that apply to a pulse also?

Thanks!

Jim

Hot babes and cool boats.

 

[Craig]

I think JW from this board use to have a Pulse along with several others. They will want to know the specifics of your setup in order to help. Good steering with no slop is a factor. I always say that learning to balance the boat is the main obstacle in battling chine walk, but that shouldn't be an issue here at these speeds.

We had a discussion about this topic regarding chine walk on a Pulsare, I think we came to the conclusion that if set up properly, they will ride smooth all the way up to 70's mph. After that discussion, I tested mine (Pulsare) to see where she starts to walk, and she drove straight and true up to about low 70's. After that I couldn't just hold the steering wheel still anymore. (My top speed is 85) Also the consensus was dual cable ride guide steering was best over hydraulic steering for chine walk because you can adjust it down to almost no slop. I still think hydraulic is safer though, and really helps with steering torque.

I think the Pulse guys will tell you that with proper set-up you shouldn't have any chine walk, especially in the 60's.

You need:
Proper propshaft height, right prop, even distribution of weight, tight steering.
You need these not only for eliminating chine walk, but for just all around best performance. Hopefully they can give you more details, I've never owned a Pulse.

-Craig

 

[Bubba]

Hello,

Craig, do you hafe a 300 promax? ore 300X can you please tel me the diff between the engine's i looking too buy one, there is a 300 and a 300X help would be very welkom.

Sake From HOLLAND

 

[JW]

Even when I had my Pulse set up properly, it still chine walked and had to be constantly controlled. I think the biggest differece between my Pulsare/Promax and my Pulse/XR6 was the motor mounts. My Promax had solid mounts, my XR6 had the standard hard rubber mounts. I think that with everything optimized, by switching a stock motor over to solid mounts greatly enhances control.
One HUGE difference I notice between boats with solid mounts and boats with rubber mounts is when you cut the throttle at high speed. The rubber mounted motors move quite a bit when the torque is turned off, whereas the solid motor mounts keep the motor going straight. With my Promax, I could cut the throttle at WOT and I needed zero counter steer to keep going straight. With a stock motor, whenever I cut power I also have to counter steer as the motor unloads the torque and moves within the rubber mount.

Checkmates owned: 1995 Pulsare 2100BR/1995 Mercury Promax 225 2.5 EFI. 1995 Persuader 183/4.3 LX V6. 1992 Pulse 171/1992 Mercury XR6 150 hp 2.5 liter.

 

[Craig]

Yeah, solid mounts do make a difference, I forget about that because all the hi-perf Mercs have them standard.

Sake, a 300x has more hp (+15?)and a better hp curv with max hp at a higher rpms.

old 300 = 300 hp rev limit @ 6100
new 300x = 300+ hp rev limit @ 6800

-Craig

 

[JW]

Oh, another thing I forgot about my Pulse. My dealer tried to give me a rebuilt prop for it when we bought it. Anything above 55 mph and it chine walked so badly that it was dangerous. We put on a brand new Laser II and raised the motor one notch, then it was controlable.

Sake, the 300X is reported to be 330 hp at the propshaft

and there's rumor of a 400X in the works at Mercury.......

Checkmates owned: 1995 Pulsare 2100BR/1995 Mercury Promax 225 2.5 EFI. 1995 Persuader 183/4.3 LX V6. 1992 Pulse 171/1992 Mercury XR6 150 hp 2.5 liter.

 

[Bubba]

400 PONNYS

yeh now where talking, Craig and JW Thanks for the info.

Sake From HOLLAND

 

[jkeiper]

First I would like to thank everyone that responded!

My set up is a Merc 175 with Sea Star Pro. steering and a 23 Tempest.

I would just write it off to getting used to the boat, however the dealer told me this boat shouldn't chine walk at all and when I talked to the set up tech. at Checkmate he told me this was very unusual. He also told me to make sure that the steering was bled and the cavitation plate was set at 2 3/4-3" above the pad. When I checked the engine hight it was 1 1/2" low. I raised it to 3" exactly. I am now in the second to the highest hole on the motor. I bled the steering to be sure and noticed that there is a little play in the helm. It is almost like there is a coupling in side that has backlash in it. It measures 3/4" movement on the rim of my 14" steering wheel.

Is this normal? I know it's not normal for a dual cable steering system.

I do think that solid mounts would help a lot.

Should the prop shaft be 3" below the pad as on the pulsare?

Thanks again for the info!

I'm running 63.9 (gps)at 6000 rpm.

Thanks!

Jim Keiper

Hot babes and cool boats.

 

[F150GT]

JW
Did you notice an increase in vibration or any other negative traits when switching from rubber mounts to solid?
F150GT

 

[Craig]

Jim,
No, you shouldn't have any play at the helm, at least mine doesn't. I have the Sea Star Pro. What you will have is a little bit of "sponge" when you grab on to the lower unit and move the motor side to side, maybe 1/4". I wouldn't call it "slop" more like a little "give" because it requires some force. The steering wheel won't move, but the motor will "give" slightly. This is where it differs from dual cable. This in itself will cause a little bit of chine walk, nothing serious and nothing that can't be controlled. Sounds to me like the play you have at the helm is the root of your chine walk problem. If your system is bled, then I don't know what's causing it. Try caling the company and talk to a technician.

-Craig

 

[jkeiper]

Craig,

Iknow exactly what your talking about when you grab the motor and have a "sponge" feel in the cylinder. I have about 1/8" if I really force it. The play that I have is in the helm and if I remove the filler cap I can see the pump turn, however when turning the wheel back and fourth the wheel turns 3/4" before you see the pump turn. I'll try to call Sea Star today to find out if this is normal.

Thanks!

Jim

Hot babes and cool boats.

 

[Bubba]

Craig you are richt, i hafe the pro also and the same give. i test this out tonight and you are right! so i think this is normal on all the hydro.. steerings.

Sake From HOLLAND

 

[Bruce]

Hi Jim, quick question, I am in the same position as yourself with respect to the height of the cavitation plate and the pad. It's necessary for me to raise mine one notch as well which would leave me on the second highest notch. I called a couple of boat places and they want $150.00 Canadian to raise it. At that price I might as well have them throw on a Jack Plate for another $300.00.

Question - How did you go about raising it, the bottom two bolts are on the slider with the top 2 being on a hole by themselves. Did you use a Block and Tackle to raise it to the position and then tighten the bolts ?? Mine is an Evinrude 120 and I don't see any obvious hooks or eyes that could be used. At 300 lbs or so I guess I could get a couple of Buddies and lift it.

Thanks

Bruce

 

[175checkmate]

I had a chin walk problem on my tri-mate. The boat came with a cleaver, stern lifting prop, (wrong for a mate). Went to a 4 blade 27p ballistic. Nasty prop still chin walked. Switched to a laser 2. It was like a different boat.
As far as lifting the motor. The proper way is to get the lifting eye for your engine. This lifting device is bolted to the flywheel and lifts from there.

1975 Checkmate Tri-mate 2, 2.4 200+ / Sky jacker 6" plate / 25p Laser 2 prop

 

[jkeiper]

Bruce,

I have the lifting eye that screws into the flywheel on my Merc. Then I use a hoist where I work to lift it. I would be very careful doing it with guys holding it up. It will be quit awkward and kind of crowded when trying to start the nuts and if it starts to tip it wouldn't be good.

The job is easy with the right equipment.

Regards,

Jim

Hot babes and cool boats.

 

[Bruce]

Thanks Guys, that's what I thought, when I factor in the cost of the lifting eye, block and tackle I'm probably best just to get the Jack Plate put on. I just have to ease into that one, I sold my old boat so I got a rebate for insurance coming back, I'll add a few more dollars and I'm all set. Can't wait until the Spring Time, may only have 1 more run with the Mate this year.

Bruce

 

[JW]

F150GT, yes there is a difference in vibration. With the solid mounts, at idle the hull shakes just a tad, kinda like a car with a hot cam. It really impressed my passengers, with a 225 sticker staring at them and that slight vibration in the gunwhale. The guys notice it, the girls don't.
The only negative to solid mounts is when you tuck the engine all the way down, then it really vibrates the boat. One quick bounce of the up trim cures it.

Checkmates owned: 1995 Pulsare 2100BR/1995 Mercury Promax 225 2.5 EFI. 1995 Persuader 183/4.3 LX V6. 1992 Pulse 171/1992 Mercury XR6 150 hp 2.5 liter.

 

[F150GT]

Thanks JW
I need to replace my motor mounts, so that decides it. I love the sound & feel of a good cam loping along.

I was looking for an old article from last year at scream & fly on set back and " a low flying plane" or something like that from Dock Boy. Do you know any of these, I heard you do a lot over there. These were good articles on setting up and driving fast boats. It would be cool if they could find their way over here.
F150GT

 

[ncst8er]

Here is the archive for the old Dockboy articles. Unfortuately since this is a previous incarnation of S&F, there are no links to this that I've found on the current site, but the articles are still there. Dockboy Archives