• Welcome to the Checkmate Community Forums forums.

    You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions, articles and access to our other FREE features.
    By joining our free community you will be able to:

    » Interact with over 10,000 Checkmate Fanatics from around the world!
    » Post topics and messages
    » Post and view photos
    » Communicate privately with other members
    » Access our extensive gallery of old Checkmate brochures located in our Media Gallery
    » Browse the various pictures in our Checkmate photo gallery

    Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

    If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact support by clicking here or by using the"contact us" link at the bottom of the page.

putting a load on a outboard.....

ross

ross

Well-known member
do any of you guys know of a way to put an actuall load on a outboard without it being out on the lake? i want to try to do this on the muffs in the drive but dont think i can:sick: hours at work have changed so i dont have time to get on the lake for awhile!!! i think i have a coil going out under load and wana get it fixed before i get time to get it on the water. any help out there?
 
ross said:
do any of you guys know of a way to put an actuall load on a outboard without it being out on the lake? i want to try to do this on the muffs in the drive but dont think i can:sick: hours at work have changed so i dont have time to get on the lake for awhile!!! i think i have a coil going out under load and wana get it fixed before i get time to get it on the water. any help out there?
Click to expand...


You are out of luck. About the closest you could come short of buying a dyno, making a test wheel and going to the lake. This would allow you to wind it up on the trailer and not have to drive it around...But if you are at the lake then......
 
what is the proper way to test the coils on a 87 200 black max? i ohmed them out on a 200 sclale and they all ohmed between 2.6 and 3.2. i swear this thing is losing spark on one cylinder under load:brickwall:
 
ross said:
what is the proper way to test the coils on a 87 200 black max? i ohmed them out on a 200 sclale and they all ohmed between 2.6 and 3.2. i swear this thing is losing spark on one cylinder under load:brickwall:
Click to expand...

If you don't have one and plan on doing this yourself, make sure you have a factory service manual. It walks you through the testing process pretty well. My advice on electrical stuff is take it to a dealer. It is way to easy to be wrong in your diagnosis even following the manual and it gets really expensive throwing parts at it. Based on your description, it's proabably a switch box. If it is replace them in pairs. The best way to check spark is using a timing light. You'll see the miss or lack of fire.
 
xsive said:
If you don't have one and plan on doing this yourself, make sure you have a factory service manual. It walks you through the testing process pretty well. My advice on electrical stuff is take it to a dealer. It is way to easy to be wrong in your diagnosis even following the manual and it gets really expensive throwing parts at it. Based on your description, it's proabably a switch box. If it is replace them in pairs. The best way to check spark is using a timing light. You'll see the miss or lack of fire.
Click to expand...


it's not a switch box....been down that road a few times already. when you lose a box you lose 3 cylenders.....it feels like only 1 dropping in amd out. i will have my hands on a temp gun tomarrow so when i get a chance i will run it to the lake(proley in the dark) and check the temps of the cylinders. what should the temp be? and what should i expect for the temp on the head next to each spark plug?
 
all the boxes i have gone through have failed and stayed that way- no load on the motor or should i say you can see there is no spark on a hole bank on the muffs...i have always been told when a box goes its done! this issue consitantley comes and goes- say every 5-10 seconds.
 
I am not versed in your situation, but with a simple thought, could you
have a problem with any of the plug wires. Could there be a crack in the wire?
Vibration from the engine could cause intermitent weak spark or spark loss.
 
JT Patroni said:
I am not versed in your situation, but with a simple thought, could you
have a problem with any of the plug wires. Could there be a crack in the wire?
Vibration from the engine could cause intermitent weak spark or spark loss.
Click to expand...

you are on the right track! my only guess would be that it would do it on the muffs also.....and it does not. but its not outa the question:irked:
 
i too have to disagree with what your saying on the swith boxes.
my 87 blackmax 200 had a similar problem, seemed to be due to heat, it would only do it after running for a while... i bought a dva adapter for my fluke meter and determined it to be one switch box loosing one cylinder. i had also gone through a stator and a trigger prior to that. the service manual will step you though checking both of those.
find someone with a box to try, the swap, as you know, is pretty easy swap actually.
also, i think, if you determine which cyl is ddropping, you could swap inner and outer to see if it changes.
 
xsive said:
Did you ever get your boat fixed?
Click to expand...

it was fixed for a day......or half a day:lol: replaced the stator and all seemed fine- went out and ran ine for awhile then when the weather got hot(95) it seemed to act up:irked: and it was sitting almost all day:brickwall: still not sure whats up with it:poke: i figured i would leave it alone for the week as i am sick of working on it:sick::popcorn:
 
Ross,

Many years ago when I was into drag racing Corvette's I ran into
a similar situation. After warm up and under load I got a intermitant
misfire. After much testing, replacing coils etc, I had the plugs tested under pressure load. Found one plug would misfire at temp under load.
While the plug was still firing, it lost enough of its intensity to cause
a loss of power.

I don't know if a 2 stroke will react the same way. As I said before I am
not well versed on outboards, YET!

Jim
 
test tank????

you could make a test tank like they have at the marina's.... Go to a farm supply place like tractor supply or whatever it is that you have in your area and buy a large plastic feed tank. make a wood cover that sits on top and put a brick on it to hold it down and put a plug in the bottom.... and presto test tank. Ive been meaning to make one myself.
 
ross said:
it was fixed for a day......or half a day:lol: replaced the stator and all seemed fine- went out and ran ine for awhile then when the weather got hot(95) it seemed to act up:irked: and it was sitting almost all day:brickwall: still not sure whats up with it:poke: i figured i would leave it alone for the week as i am sick of working on it:sick::popcorn:
Click to expand...
Wow im sorry to hear this buddy:brickwall:
 
zstevens said:
have you rechecked your timing ? max timing adv. ? over looked the obyious ?
Click to expand...


yea check the timing if it hasnt been monkeyed with i doubt it would get out of adjustment on its own...

also!!!
definately look into fuel delivery problems... i had a problem where the motor would cut out erratically at speed but run fine on the lower rpms, i went through all the electrical stuff on my motor and the fuel pump. only to find i had a couple check valves that went bad!!!!! what a headache troubleshooting that was. So definitely check out your CHECK VALVES. when you take em out they should work like a one way valve.
try blowin one way through them and then the other. if air goes both ways its shot. and when those go you loose your crankcase pressure and it wont drive your fuel pump.

gettin the bugs out of a motor can make you crazy, but once your done youll have a sweet reliable ride.

goodluck man
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top