Last year I bought an enforcer with a soft floor around the front seat pedastals,I was able to make it through the entire season without the seat ripping out of the floor but its time to fix before the season is here.I replaced a rotted floor once before and swore i wouldn't do it again but once i saw the boat the bad hassle faded away.Anyone have any suggestions or warnings on replacing a floor in an enforcer.
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rotted floor
- Thread starter 2003cobra
- Start date
Last year I bought an enforcer with a soft floor around the front seat pedastals,I was able to make it through the entire season without the seat ripping out of the floor but its time to fix before the season is here.I replaced a rotted floor once before and swore i wouldn't do it again but once i saw the boat the bad hassle faded away.Anyone have any suggestions or warnings on replacing a floor in an enforcer.
Are you going to replace just the bad section or do the whole floor. If its just a section thats easy.
Get the carpet up, find out how far the rott goes.
Draw a line about 3" out from where the rott is.
Cut out rott. There are a bunch of ways to do this. The trick is to not go to deep. I found that a skill saw with the gaurd off, tipped on a 45 deg angle allows you to cut as deep as you need to while maintaining control of the depth.
Once the rotted area is removed I bevel the remaining edge at about a 45 deg angle. I installed some small "L" brackets for the new floor to sit on. Cut out new piece of wood of the same thickness, put the 45 deg angle on the edge and trim to fit the opening.Once the fit is good. Coat the board with just resin to seal the wood. Test fit again. Mix up some resin of your choise, goop the inside endges and install the new wood. (One thing you can do prior to installed the new part is drill the mounting holes for the pedistall, install stainless steel cap screws and then glass them in so they don't move.)
Once the floor has set. Then use fiberglass cloth and resin and glass in the hole board. Build untill its the same height as the rest of the floor and reinstall carpet.
Good luck and have fun.
1975 Checkmate Tri-mate 2, 2.4 200+ / Sky jacker 6" plate / 25p Laser 2 prop, Currently the boat is undergoing overhaul.
Get the carpet up, find out how far the rott goes.
Draw a line about 3" out from where the rott is.
Cut out rott. There are a bunch of ways to do this. The trick is to not go to deep. I found that a skill saw with the gaurd off, tipped on a 45 deg angle allows you to cut as deep as you need to while maintaining control of the depth.
Once the rotted area is removed I bevel the remaining edge at about a 45 deg angle. I installed some small "L" brackets for the new floor to sit on. Cut out new piece of wood of the same thickness, put the 45 deg angle on the edge and trim to fit the opening.Once the fit is good. Coat the board with just resin to seal the wood. Test fit again. Mix up some resin of your choise, goop the inside endges and install the new wood. (One thing you can do prior to installed the new part is drill the mounting holes for the pedistall, install stainless steel cap screws and then glass them in so they don't move.)
Once the floor has set. Then use fiberglass cloth and resin and glass in the hole board. Build untill its the same height as the rest of the floor and reinstall carpet.
Good luck and have fun.
1975 Checkmate Tri-mate 2, 2.4 200+ / Sky jacker 6" plate / 25p Laser 2 prop, Currently the boat is undergoing overhaul.
unfortunatly i am going to replace about 3/4 of the floor due to when you unscrew the plastic access panels in the floor the right side has water in it.The level of the water never changed throughout last summer and when you stuck your hand in the hole the underside of the floor was getting deteriorated as far as i could reach and the flotation foam was very brittle.MY thoughts were that one of the chanels that drain the water to the back of the boat is clogged from some debris.i wanted to make sure that this problem is fixed thats another reason for taking up so much floor.the left side has no water in it at all.my main concern is where is the gas tank located ,directly under the floor touching it,or is it reccessed an 1" or 2 below the floor I don't want to hit while removing the floor. Any thoughts?
Not real sure where it is on your boat. Mine sat above the floor.
I am sure someone will know.
1975 Checkmate Tri-mate 2, 2.4 200+ / Sky jacker 6" plate / 25p Laser 2 prop, Currently the boat is undergoing overhaul.
I am sure someone will know.
1975 Checkmate Tri-mate 2, 2.4 200+ / Sky jacker 6" plate / 25p Laser 2 prop, Currently the boat is undergoing overhaul.
Cobra,
Going through the same scenario with my Convincor. The gas tank was foamed in and sits about 1" below the center floor section. The floor was laid in three sections. Center sections was screwed into the stingers. With mine the seam was visible so I used a grinder to locate the screws and removed the center section to acess the tank. Tank was leaking so that was part of my redo anyway.
The side sections were really shot. A previous owner had screwed mounting blocks for the rear seat to the floor without sealing the holes. Ran the boat all summer too knowing I would have to do something. I used a 4-1/2 grinder to cut along the side/floor joint and removed an 8' section on both sides. Worked out best to remove the whole sheet of plywood and duplicate the factory seams.
After years of leaking the floor just desintegrated under the glass. As I removed the wet foam and cleaned the bilge found that the last 18" - 24" of the stringers were soft too. I have cut new stringers and knee braces and hope to be glassing soon. Unfortunately with rot it is usually worse than expected. I'm down to solid base now and have no problems with the transom or coring.
Take your time and you won't have any problems. Good luck!
Here's a link to my redo.
http://checkmate-boats.com/groupee/forums?a=tpc&s=8626072361&f=3506095561&m=838006446
Going through the same scenario with my Convincor. The gas tank was foamed in and sits about 1" below the center floor section. The floor was laid in three sections. Center sections was screwed into the stingers. With mine the seam was visible so I used a grinder to locate the screws and removed the center section to acess the tank. Tank was leaking so that was part of my redo anyway.
The side sections were really shot. A previous owner had screwed mounting blocks for the rear seat to the floor without sealing the holes. Ran the boat all summer too knowing I would have to do something. I used a 4-1/2 grinder to cut along the side/floor joint and removed an 8' section on both sides. Worked out best to remove the whole sheet of plywood and duplicate the factory seams.
After years of leaking the floor just desintegrated under the glass. As I removed the wet foam and cleaned the bilge found that the last 18" - 24" of the stringers were soft too. I have cut new stringers and knee braces and hope to be glassing soon. Unfortunately with rot it is usually worse than expected. I'm down to solid base now and have no problems with the transom or coring.
Take your time and you won't have any problems. Good luck!
Here's a link to my redo.
http://checkmate-boats.com/groupee/forums?a=tpc&s=8626072361&f=3506095561&m=838006446