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Skegs

NF22

New member
I noticed last fall when I put my boat in storage that the skeg was splitting from the bottom all the way up. I had it patched up mid season with some fiberglass, but it looks like I may need a new one. For performance purposes, are there any skegs that may be better then a generic one?

Also, I know this may be a very stupid question, but how can I avoid future damage to the skeg when pulling the boat up on shore to enjoy a few hours at a beach?

Thanks
 
What do you mean by skeg? The skeg is usually on the lower unit, and I dont think you would have that repaired with fiberglass. :o
MK Hammer a vendor on here has a hull guard that you can put up front to protect it from hull from damage. I looks like about a 6" wide rubber strip that you glue to the hull.
Cantact him, they make them in colors so they will match the hull.
 
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Thanks for the response.

The skeg is the rutter looking thing at the end of the lower unit. Mine was chipped so my mechanic repaired it with what he said was fiberglass. When I looked at it when I pulled my boat and I actually took pictures of it the fiberglass was separating.
 
Here's something from overtons. I'm sure you can get similar things elsewhere.0 y:0
100 / 180 %

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SkegGuard™


$99.99
SkegGuard can be used to protect and prevent damage to your motor skeg, as well as to repair or replace an already broken skeg.

  • High-quality 316 stainless steel
  • 2.5mm thickened lower plate
  • Can be installed in less than ten minutes
  • 3-year warranty
 
Also, I know this may be a very stupid question, but how can I avoid future damage to the skeg when pulling the boat up on shore to enjoy a few hours at a beach?

stop pulling the boat in to the point where the skeg touches the bottom
 
Anyone know if the skeg guard will have an effect on my speed? If so, what can I have done to fix the problem?

Thank you for any help.
 
ive had new skegs welded on before not a big deal i think last time i had it done it was 100 bucks
 
Many years ago when I lived up in Bergen County I had a welding/fabricating business. Many times marine dealerships would bring me lower units that had the skegs broken off or badly cracked. I had a
oven to pre heat the casting (Lower unit completly disassembled and dechromed) to avoid any distortion from the welding and added whatever was necessary to restructure the skeg/lower unit. They are rebuildable.
Now you just have to figure out which is the cheaper method - rebuild or
buy new. Don't let anyone tell you they can't be fixed.
 
With nicks the size of dime, nickle and up to half of quarter. I just build it up with J B Weld and a little sanding its like it never happened or have shop fix it if its that bad.
 
Anyone know if the skeg guard will have an effect on my speed? If so, what can I have done to fix the problem?

Thank you for any help.

Yes the gaurd will effect the performance, but on the other-hand you will never notice it because your skeg already has a clown repair job done on it.
 
I'm wondering how the the bottom looks if the skeg is this funked up?
Trim the motor all the way up and just ease on to the beach!!!
 
Trim it up. If it's shallow comming in trim it all the way up get out of the boat and walk it in. Oh and shut off the engine before you get out .
 
What do you mean?

The lower casing and skeg are Aluminum, not fiberglass. A fiberglass patch is a poor repair from someone who did not know better.

They need to be aluminum welded for a proper repair. With out seeing it, I would guess the split you see is the fiberglass patch peeling off the aluminum. Most/many of the propeller repair guys who weld Stainless and Aluminum props will also weld damaged skegs. As others here have said it's not that expensive($100-200) to have them repair it. You will need to check that the damage is not into the gearcase causing leakage of water into the oil. Skegs can usually be welded without taking them apart as the oil and gears are enough mass that they do not get that warm during the welding process. To be safe change the oil after the repair.

Good luck
Rob
 
Thanks Karzrus

There was some minor chipping on the skeg and I believe that my mechanic was doing what he thought was best to repair the minor damage and get me back out on the water. He is a very reputable mechanic, so I am a bit surprised to hear these negative comments....

So I assume that I should try and get skeg fixed properly if possible rather then put on a skeg guard...

Thanks for all the help.
 
So I assume that I should try and get skeg fixed properly if possible rather then put on a skeg guard...

Yes get it welded, then you won't worry about performance loss as it will be back to origional shape/size and it will be durable and not start peeling off after a few uses.
 
Thanks Karzrus

There was some minor chipping on the skeg and I believe that my mechanic was doing what he thought was best to repair the minor damage and get me back out on the water. He is a very reputable mechanic, so I am a bit surprised to hear these negative comments....

So I assume that I should try and get skeg fixed properly if possible rather then put on a skeg guard...

Thanks for all the help.
Their is a big differance between a boat mechanic and a welder. If it was only minor chipping it should have been left alone. But for somebody to take and smear fiberglass all over a skeg seems like the problem was more than minor.

My negative comments about your mechanic are based on the fact that you said he stuck the fiberglass on the skeg. Thats just plane ignorant and makes me wonder what else he does when your not looking. You can defend his stupidy all you want, but 99% of this board will say he was wrong.

Like me or not I tell it the way I see it :bigthumb:
 
I am not defending him by any means and I appreciate your honesty.

I was, I guess a little taken back by the negative feedback I received on the job he did. I certainly do not have the ability to critique his work, as I am not knowledgable about the cosmetics or mechanics of the boat.

I am very grateful for the feedback.
 
Their is a big differance between a boat mechanic and a welder. If it was only minor chipping it should have been left alone. But for somebody to take and smear fiberglass all over a skeg seems like the problem was more than minor.

My negative comments about your mechanic are based on the fact that you said he stuck the fiberglass on the skeg. Thats just plane ignorant and makes me wonder what else he does when your not looking. You can defend his stupidy all you want, but 99% of this board will say he was wrong.

Like me or not I tell it the way I see it :bigthumb:


being a welder/fabricator for 19 years now. i would haft to agree with the not so good feed back on the glass over aluminium. i have fixed a few skegs over the years and that is a delicate procedure if its done right. you must realy keep it strait and the heat that is aplied is great. i have done a few nose cone's also. if you would like, i would do it for a cheap price if you want to pay for shipping etc. you would also need to gut the foot. you must keep a towel on the bearing case packed with ice. that is to keep from warping the housing. i have replaced the whole skeg because a friend hit a floating log and broke it off. if i remember correctly, it is 6061 grade aluminium that we used. the acuatul foot(lower casing) is a poured casting. it is realy dirty and trashy to weld. you must clean it well and then when welding it, it will bug hole from the inside out. so then you must stop and grind a thousand times to do right. i would only tig weld it. ( heliarc.) stonger weld with less chance of cracking again.
 
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