Welcome to the Checkmate Community Forums forums.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited
access to view most discussions, articles and access to our other FREE features.
By joining our free community you will be able to:
Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact support by clicking here or by using the"contact us" link at the bottom of the page.
Canadian's take their prop discussion pretty seriously! lol
I appreciate the offer. Right now I got a bunch of props to test out too.
21P Mirage
23P Tempest+
22P RX4
24P Bravo 1 FS
26P RX4
26.5P Bravo 1 FS.
So far my best has been the 26P RX4 ( I think...I need to review my posts and see for sure) but I expect the best result will be this spring or fall with the 26.5P Bravo.
Ummm.... "blacktruck" gonna come and get you.
My all original, probably somewhat wet Liner went 75 with a 99 Merc EFI 250 on it.
To make outboard boats run quicker we run the motors high on the transom jack so that the top third of each blade of the propeller is piercing the surface of the water all the time. This puts a lot of stress on the blades as they exit the water briefly (no load) and then submerge again (full load) 50 to 60 times per second at WOT.
Okay back to the Starliner, looking forward to seeing this thing go!
On my Starliner I am running the prop shaft even w/the bottom.
So w/a 3 blade wheel, one blade is totally uncovered and two are partially uncovered, every revolution.
The loading/unloading of the blades is dramatic.
I have cracked several including a Mazco RE series which are known to.
Well there are lots of reasons for that (thin blades + heavy boat + running too high = bad setup). The props were obviously not good for your setup. Were they stock, tampered with?
You can run a Starliner with a stock 250 indefinitely with the right prop, without the fear of it breaking. Running ultra thin racing props on semi-heavy boats that don't fly, is hard on the prop and you won't get the most out of the prop, not to mention dangerous. I don't think we are disagreeing on much, maybe just semantics.
I agree with you that the Bravo would be interesting to see. Looking forward to the results.
Would love to know what the boat weighs too.
Call any of the hi perfect prop mfg's and ask them if their props live as long when surfaced. They will laugh at you.
Last two I cracked were on a 750 lb tunnel boat.
Half the weight of a typical Checkmate.
Yes weight and HPs are part of the equation but is far outweighed by surfacing the lower unit.
I run OMCs and if you surface them, their cases become time bombs.
Only way to make them live is to through bolt the prop shaft carrier.
Top line race teams have their props checked for cracks between races.
The Merc Sportmaster is the best unit available (accordingly, I adapt them to my OMCs), they still break and most guys change oil at 20 hrs.
Go to YouTube and search the videos of a surfaced case at speed. It is scary.
That being said, let's not muck up (any more) Sams thread by debating the effects of surfacing a case/prop.
blacktruck, rather than correcting us on someone else's thread, you need to start your own thread on "surfacing prpellers and how they break" that way you can enlighten us all once. Instead of having keep doing it over and ruining other guys threads.
I also think the guys over on "screamandfly.com" would appreciate a little help and would benefit from your researched understanding of propellers.
I also think the guys over on "screamandfly.com" would appreciate a little help and would benefit from your researched understanding of propellers.
Not just you, go with youtube.![]()
Okay...I figured out youtube.
https://youtu.be/fycqcWulyX0
https://youtu.be/vhd3DJycc40
https://youtu.be/1giUejnHHjc