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Stereo Setup

Boston Predictor

Boston Predictor

Well-known member
well the time has come to start thinking about some tunes for my mate. This is a first time deal for me so any help would be great.
I am installing a clarion deck with 4 speakers (havent decided which brand yet)
Im also going to be using a 400-600watt amp.
I have no idea how to run a second battery but thats what you guys are for right???
If anyone has a diagram on how to run everything that would be awsome.
Thanks you guys are the best;)
 
are you using the amp for the four speakers or a sub? I can tell you how to wire the amp stereo and speakers but I dont know about the double battery
 
Hi taz, the amp will be for the speakers. If all goes well I might add a subwoofer later on.
I want to wire the system up with a kill switch also.
thanks
Geoff
 
Double battery wiring

I can tell you how to wire the double battery. It is recommended that you use a battery switch so that you can use #1, #2, both, or none. I would post a picture if I could do attachments, but I think the system will not let me do now. If you send your e-mail I can send you the schematic.
 
stereo and amp

ok bp here you go. For the amp hook the hot of the amp to your battery with 8 gauge or less wire. The negative to the ground. The acc. will come from your stereo a blue wire. This will turn the amp off when the stereo is off. The speakers will then be wired to your amp. The stereo Yellow wire is constant hot. The red wire is acc. Hook this wire to your switch. Either install a switch or I used my fuel switch. The black wire is your ground. You need to get a set of rca jacks and run from the output of the stereo to the input of the amp. That pretty well somes it up any other questions just ask. But I am leaving for vacation in the morning so I will get back to you before then. Dennie:bigthumb:
 
checkmate150 said:
I can tell you how to wire the double battery. It is recommended that you use a battery switch so that you can use #1, #2, both, or none. I would post a picture if I could do attachments, but I think the system will not let me do now. If you send your e-mail I can send you the schematic.
Click to expand...
Thanks that would be fantastic. gk414@yahoo.com


Thanks Dennie, that will be a big help. Now I just have to order the amp and speakers. It should be at least two more weeks before I get started. Thanks guys:thumb:
 
Something to look for when ordering a head unit, to make things easy, order one that has rca preouts for you front, rear, and subs, that way its pretty much plug and play to your amp. I have it that way running to my speaker amp. The from the amp I have it going to 3 way 6x9 speakers up front and in the back I have 4x6 speakers with crossovers going to separate 1 inch tweeters. The systems is brutally loud, I have a panasonic head unit with flip down face, a cheapy Profile Baja 80x4 watt amp, and really nice Polk audio speakers. The head unit was like 199, the speakers were 169 front and 199 rear, and the amp was cheap,120. The system just absolutely rocks, I can hear it clearly when I am WFO, and my boat has no mufflers. I did have a 2 ten inch subs in a ported bandpass with a separate amp, but it was way to big and killed my storage space under the bow. My speakers without the subs generate pretty good bass as it is, and if I get the urge, I will just use a bazooka tube for space saving sake. When I had the two subs and two amps with my 6 speakers, it would ripple the water :) None of the stuff is marine spec, I jsut take care not to get it wet. When doing water sports, I cover the rear speakers with plastic bags to keep them dry when entering and exiting the boat from the water.
 
If possible run the stereo of one boat off another so when your at the sandbar you got enough oomph to start your mota, pulling a v-6 sucks. And alot of guys are not running head units in boats anymore just using mp3 players. No hole in dash and easier to conceal from wandering eyes at the pier..
 
tazfinz said:
ok bp here you go. For the amp hook the hot of the amp to your battery with 8 gauge or less wire. The negative to the ground. The acc. will come from your stereo a blue wire. This will turn the amp off when the stereo is off. The speakers will then be wired to your amp. The stereo Yellow wire is constant hot. The red wire is acc. Hook this wire to your switch. Either install a switch or I used my fuel switch. The black wire is your ground. You need to get a set of rca jacks and run from the output of the stereo to the input of the amp. That pretty well somes it up any other questions just ask. But I am leaving for vacation in the morning so I will get back to you before then. Dennie:bigthumb:
Click to expand...

Hey BP, a couple more things to consider...

1. The wire you run to your amp needs to be large enough to handle the potential load of the amp. The best way to determine this is simple, check the fuse size on the amp and run wire large enough to handle that many amps. The amp lead also needs to be fused at or near the battery to prevent fire potential. This is probably more of an issue in motor vehicles because of the wire running through the engine compartment and passing through the firewall and such, but still, it's always better to be safe than sorry.

2. If you switch the red wire as Taz suggested, you run the risk of your radio clock, if it has one, drawing current and running your battery down. If you are doing a dual battery setup, realistically, this is probably not a concern until you put it away for the winter. Personally, I switch the red and yellow, which unfortunately kills the clock setting as well as radio presets, but most of the time I am listening to a CD's anyway. It's just matter of personal preference.
 
Hey bp you can go to circuit city or walmart and they do sell amp wiring kits they are made by wattage of amp and already have an inline fuse. Just a thought
 
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