What motor oil do you use?

[wca_tim]

Is zddp for the cam lobes during break in, if it is comp cams says it only needs to be used for 20 minutes. The additive does not need to be put back in after break in

I put the lucas stuff in with every oil change in order to get zddp levels up to what they used to be for performance oils. It is a very effective lubricant in preventing wear on grey iron surfaces (like lifter / cams) and increases antiscuff properties dramatically.

 

[wca_tim]

I guess people run what they are use to and what works for them, I have been told by some of my oil reps that Mobil one does not have the anti corrosion agents needed for marine use. Merc precision 25-40 is not the same and would be my pick if I were to run synthetic. Like JW said every body is not changing oil in race engines, And I can see that guys run what they know. But me as a shop If a boat owner blows his boat up because I put in oil that was not recommend for his application I may be held liable.

What I use in my personal engines and what I recommend I my high performance engines is what has been working for me.
Not all engine are created equal Machining varies, I find some production engines are looser than other,

point(s) taken...

for a crate engine or one from the factory, i will run whatever is recommended, and the merc stuff is a safe bet. When I spend the extra coin to have an engine custum built by a pro, I run what they tell me to - and it's been different for motorcycles, street rods and now the boat engine (which I understand is set up very similar to a circle track engine to handle sustained rpms under load). I was also told run an oversized thermostatted oil cooler on it and then run it hard for as long as i wanted to...

on a different front Hammer, and I'll send a pm too, what can you do for me on a roots blower kit? either a 142/144 or a 177 to put on top my 383... I'm not trying to go nuts and want to use pump gas still. so will swap heads to drop compression to 8.5:1 and boost reference the carb. I'm thinking I can add what, another 100 horsepower maybe? Joey said no problem on doing it when he checked the heads out for me, but doesn't buy "little blowers" any more and said the folks he used to buy them from for small blocks went out of business. I'm going to drop my risers and stainless bungs for wideband sensors off next week and would tune it that way rather than pull it to have it done on the dyno...

 

[mkhammer]

point(s) taken...

for a crate engine or one from the factory, i will run whatever is recommended, and the merc stuff is a safe bet. When I spend the extra coin to have an engine custum built by a pro, I run what they tell me to - and it's been different for motorcycles, street rods and now the boat engine (which I understand is set up very similar to a circle track engine to handle sustained rpms under load). I was also told run an oversized thermostatted oil cooler on it and then run it hard for as long as i wanted to...
Tim
I have to agree with you on the oil issue,
I was talking to Justin my mechanic and asked him what they ran in their blower motors and stock motors from the previous shops he worked at., He said they ran mobil one but not 20/50/ he said production engines Quality conventional oil, He put it well, Some people swear by synthetic and some won't use the stuff no matter what.

Have you gave a procharger any thought? I can give you a price on a roots style blower,
The procharger may have some benefits, you can run slightly high compression ratio, run a small andvance curve in your distributor, ambient engine compartment tempeture is only raised by about 25 deg. fits under your hatch, little easier out of the hole on your drive, puts out the same boost as the roots blower,has a much cooler boost delivery. A whipple is a very clean and effecient way to go but cost almost double of a procharger, But if you like the looks of a roots blower sticking out of you hatch which many do, I can price one.

 

[Big Red]

I've used 15W50 Mobil 1 for over 10 years and hundreds and hundreds of hours.

mobil delvac 1300 super 15w40 wally world 12 dollars a gallon. I run that in my power stroke too.

run Amsoil 15/40 Marine.

If your engine is 2000 and newer i would use synthetic or mineral but if your engine is older than 2000 i would stick to either mineral or synthetic only!!

There are many people here running synthetic oil in their pre 2000 boat. Mobil 1 15-50 is very popular.

Only amsoil 25-50 high zinc formula for my hydraulic flat cam 420hp's!!!

use walmart brand SAE10. The thinner oil gives me 500 more rpm and 10 mph.

I've been running Mobil 1 15-50 for several years in my old flat tappet Pachanga with zero issues.

Mobil 1 15w-50 is an excellent lubricant. Well respected in racing.
V-Twin is another great oil. A bit more robust than the 15w-50.

Two biggies to pay attention to in a marine engine is oil pressure and oil temperature. Get the gages and pay attention. They will tell you what kind of oil you need for the type of driving you do. The harder you run and the more HP you run the hotter things get and the better oil you need so that the oil will survive and adequate pressure will be maintained. A general rule of thumb is 10 psi oil pressure per 1000 rpm and from the engine/crankcase 220f max oil temperature best and 260f-280f slow down and cool down. Bigger oil coolers, oil lines/fittings and such can help.

A good synthetic like Mobil 1 can handle sustained temps over 300F for hours. Amsoil or Redline can do the same among others. Mobil 1 in particular handles high temperatures very well.

As mentioned before I run Amsoil in my 29' Fountain with a 500 EFI, in Havasu with ~110* ambient temp and have never seen my oil temp above 180*. As mentioned the synthetics can sustain much higher temps.

 

[wca_tim]

I do like the whipple idea the best, but I don't want to go that far on cash. I've given a procharger a lot of thought... for the car... what kind of money are we talking for one for a carb? On the car, it's a whole different deal and I'm thinking I'm going to do the bottom end at the same time so it's a lot more expensive proposition...

point(s) taken...

for a crate engine or one from the factory, i will run whatever is recommended, and the merc stuff is a safe bet. When I spend the extra coin to have an engine custum built by a pro, I run what they tell me to - and it's been different for motorcycles, street rods and now the boat engine (which I understand is set up very similar to a circle track engine to handle sustained rpms under load). I was also told run an oversized thermostatted oil cooler on it and then run it hard for as long as i wanted to...
Tim
I have to agree with you on the oil issue,
I was talking to Justin my mechanic and asked him what they ran in their blower motors and stock motors from the previous shops he worked at., He said they ran mobil one but not 20/50/ he said production engines Quality conventional oil, He put it well, Some people swear by synthetic and some won't use the stuff no matter what.

Have you gave a procharger any thought? I can give you a price on a roots style blower,
The procharger may have some benefits, you can run slightly high compression ratio, run a small andvance curve in your distributor, ambient engine compartment tempeture is only raised by about 25 deg. fits under your hatch, little easier out of the hole on your drive, puts out the same boost as the roots blower,has a much cooler boost delivery. A whipple is a very clean and effecient way to go but cost almost double of a procharger, But if you like the looks of a roots blower sticking out of you hatch which many do, I can price one.

 

[bountyhunter]

Then which one?

O.K. I have read all the threads on motor oil, but I didn't find one about Pennzoil. Is it not do good for marine engines? I have run Pennzoil 10W40 & 20W50 in my truck for years with no problems, so what about in a '71 455 Olds engine?
Thanks

 

[Big Red]

O.K. I have read all the threads on motor oil, but I didn't find one about Pennzoil. Is it not do good for marine engines? I have run Pennzoil 10W40 & 20W50 in my truck for years with no problems, so what about in a '71 455 Olds engine?
Thanks

It will be fine just keep it changed regular