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What to go with man or hyd jack plate?

wark2

Member
This winter I am looking to get a jack plate for my predictor. Does anyone have any suggestions about manual vs. hdraulic? I understand the baisics like price and the ability to constantly adjust a hydraulic one, but do you have to constantly adjust the height when boating in different water conditions or once you set it for max top end (for example) can you leave it there?
 
hydraulic

Go with the hydraulic, go low to launch and then run her up for top speed.
You can jack the motor down to tow waterskiers, tubes, etc.
Then to scratch the need for speed itch, take off with no slippage with the motor jacked down and raise her up for those extra few mph.:surf:
Either way make sure to get a water pressure guage you DO NOT want an expensive anchor and a lack of water pressure can cause that in a very few seconds!!!:mad:
 
I have manual JP's on both of my Mates and I just set 'em and forget 'em. I don't think you need hydraulic for most applications unless you are doing a lot of prop swapping where each prop needs to run at a different height.
 
Ive had both and by all means a hydraulic is better.
Mark is right to a degree but having a hydraulic alows you to raise or lower the motor while you are driving, and thats the key. Diffrent engine heights have dramatic results in terms of how the hull will handel the water conditions you are in. If it is choppy you want the engine deep so the hull plows through the watter better, and if it is calm then jack it up for a looser hull. If you are on a budget than get a manual, but hydraulic is the way to go.
 
Hydraulic all the way!!!

Definately go with hydraulic if you can spend the extra cash. It is true that once you get a manual set up properly it will work good, but for the reasons mentioned by the other guys, definately go hydraulic. I have a hydraulic jack on my Predictor, great hole shot and once im up and going a quick press of the botton on my steering wheel and up she goes.
 
I wish I had a hydraulic, but at the same time, my 10" CMC manual is pre-set to it's max height and the motor is bolted on as high as it will go and it still comes out of the hole great and top speed is pretty good also (76 gps). The only thing is, I don't use the same prop for pulling skiiers as I do for busting bass boats and baja's. But both work great at the same engine height. It's like the other's have said, if it's in your budget, go hydraulic and you won't be wondering which is better. If not, the manual will work just fine. Either way, I can get you a pretty good price on a new one if you are interested. boatman
 
I can get CMC manual or hyd. and Bob's hyd. I will have to check current pricing and get back to you. thanks, boatman
 
Price's are as follows. CMC 5" manual, $225-Hyd, $635. 10" manual, $234-Hyd, $690. Bob's Machine 4" or 6", $700. 8", $785. 10", $790. These are off season prices which will go up in the the spring. All prices are plus shipping and must be pre-paid. thanks, boatman
 
Either Way Get A Gauge

Make sure to get a water pressure gauge!!!! Either plate you go with!!! You DO NOT want an expensive anchor!! Low water pressure can cause damage in very few seconds!!!
 
Can't imagine a manual J/P on my Pulse 186...

Definately go hydraulic. While I don't prop swap and constantly tune for top speed I do rarely have the same number of people and same weight people in my boat. While the Pulse 186 (closed bow) is on the small side for seating people, everyone ends up adding their weight to the stern half of the boat. Add to that the variable water/wind/tubing conditions and I end up almost always having both the jackplate and trim in a different position.

My 2 cents,
Glenn
 
Just to chime in on this a bit I originaly started with a 10" cmc jackplate from BOATMAN,you wont find a better man to deal with, first class all the way. But after an extensive summer of testing and multiple spacers attempts I ended up with a 12 inch jackplate now I got from a freind. If I was to do it all over agian i could of gotten a hydrailc right from the get go for what ive spent between the two and the different spacers. The one thing I would say is if your waivering between two sizes error on the one that may be a lil more then ya think ya need, and do an extensive amount of research in here itll save you alot of time for sure, then give BOATMAN a call. As far as my new one its a manual and it works great onceits been set I havent had to mess with it much at all weather im running with 5 people or myself. Im sure the hydraulic would be nicer but nake sure you get it right the first time.:bigthumb:. Aaron
 
Just to chime in on this a bit I originaly started with a 10" cmc jackplate from BOATMAN,you wont find a better man to deal with, first class all the way. But after an extensive summer of testing and multiple spacers attempts I ended up with a 12 inch jackplate now I got from a freind. If I was to do it all over agian i could of gotten a hydrailc right from the get go for what ive spent between the two and the different spacers. The one thing I would say is if your waivering between two sizes error on the one that may be a lil more then ya think ya need, and do an extensive amount of research in here itll save you alot of time for sure, then give BOATMAN a call.
Good advice. But, I would think on a Predictor, too much would be worse than too little. I would try to get some setup info fom the Predictor guys. 5-6" is probably where they are at.
 
If it's in the budget go for the hydraulic Jack. It gives you something else to tinker with while driving and makes it much more fun when trying to eek out that last mile per hour!! Also, it comes in handy when pulling tubes, skis, etc. You can bury the plate low for better holeshot and trim the motor in to keep the bow down at slower pulling speeds.
 
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