-
Welcome to the Checkmate Community Forums forums.
» Interact with over 10,000 Checkmate Fanatics from around the world!
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions, articles and access to our other FREE features.
By joining our free community you will be able to:
» Post topics and messages
» Post and view photos
» Communicate privately with other members
» Access our extensive gallery of old Checkmate brochures located in our Media Gallery
» Browse the various pictures in our Checkmate photo gallery
Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact support by clicking here or by using the"contact us" link at the bottom of the page.
Who wants to play Good News / Bad News?
- Thread starter Vandalizer
- Start date
Vandalizer
Well-known member
I was hoping that maybe mine wouldn't be too wet. Every time I've thought - maybe it's not that bad - you guys set me straight. That's what I'm looking for though, trying to figure out what I'm up against.
In other news, my jackplate has been delivered!
teamhart2
Well-known member
Yea, you should be fine to go ahead with the jackplate install, assuming, and hoping that it hasnt gotten its way into your transom, either way, i would do the jackplate, but when you tear into it later this year, definitely check your transom out real good. You can cut into the floor with a circular saw, if its as wet as it looks, cut a few inches in from the seam with the hull and set your blade way shallow, you can pull it out pretty good with a hammer claw once its loose, same goes for the foam, then you can just muscle out the few inches of wood and the overlaying glass around the edges.
Dont worry about the stringers much, in your enticer its a single middle stringer that, if yours is like mine, isnt even really attached to the hull, you can just cut it off up to where its rotted and scab a new one in pretty easy to lay the new floor over. Heres to hoping you dont have to go very far forward
I would leave the foam out, its ridiculous to have foam in and under the floor in the back of a boat and pretend its not gonna get wet. If you are really worried, find another place to put the equivalent amount of foam.
Good luck, its not nearly as big of a job as it seems!
Dont worry about the stringers much, in your enticer its a single middle stringer that, if yours is like mine, isnt even really attached to the hull, you can just cut it off up to where its rotted and scab a new one in pretty easy to lay the new floor over. Heres to hoping you dont have to go very far forward
I would leave the foam out, its ridiculous to have foam in and under the floor in the back of a boat and pretend its not gonna get wet. If you are really worried, find another place to put the equivalent amount of foam.
Good luck, its not nearly as big of a job as it seems!
Vandalizer
Well-known member
Did you tear into yours? I don't remember a resto. That would be especially helpful!
groundloop
Active member
That's standing water in that pic, isn't it!I hope my foam isn't that wet. Then again, I hoped that I'd never have to do anything like this, and look where that got me.
What did your foam feel like when you first pulled some floor up? Mushy, or still hard and crunchy?
My foam wasn't really mushy, it was still fairly firm. It's just that when you pressed on it water came out. There were a few spots where it was deteriorated, like the cutouts in the deck for cup holders, but other than that it was structurally intact (just soggy).
Look at the bright side - your boat should be faster after it loses a couple hundred pounds. Plus you're about to learn some new skills.
Oh, for when you start grinding fiberglass - being in Georgia I never liked working in long sleeves or a sweat drenched tyvek suit. I read somewhere about rubbing talc powder on your arms to reduce the itching, and it actually seems to help. I think it must fill your pores and keeps the fiberglass dust out. Someone else mentioned cutting up panty-hose and wearing them on your arms, seems like it might help but I haven't tried that one yet.
Vandalizer
Well-known member
I found it... and if I see any of the darkness in the core that you had I'll probably hurl. All that was left of the stringer by the bilge was mush... I didn't realize it was the stringer until I saw your pics- I thought it woulda been beefier. I think I'll leave the foam out under the floor... I still have the foam boxes intact on either side of the motor. I've knocked all over on em until my fingers were about to bleed, and I can't find any dull or soft spots.
That's exactly what I keep replaying in my head!
I'm just about ready to put my new deck into my Enforcer. I started out just replacing the carpet, but you know how that goes.
It had an unglassed patch job over the old deck and the, I assume original, cross members outside the stringers were not glassed and were moist, so I decided to rip it all up and do it to last. Fortunately, the stringers are sealed and solid and the transom is rock solid.
Anyway, a Sears 3" mini circular saw has been the absolute perfect tool for cutting out the deck. It's much more precise and controllable than my regular circular saw. Cuts up to 7/8" deep and easily went through 3/4" plywood.
The deck was glued to the stringers, so I had to use a pry bar to get it up.
I used a dollar store butcher knife ($3/set of 3) to cut out the foam. It was just like cutting cake. I stabbed down from the top and cut.
I also coated my new cross members and deck with 50/50 antifreeze. It's part of a home-grown method to help prevent rot.
I bought my resin, cloth, mat and foam from US Composites. They seemed to be far cheaper than elsewhere.
However long you think it's going to take . . . double it. Double the money too.
It had an unglassed patch job over the old deck and the, I assume original, cross members outside the stringers were not glassed and were moist, so I decided to rip it all up and do it to last. Fortunately, the stringers are sealed and solid and the transom is rock solid.
Anyway, a Sears 3" mini circular saw has been the absolute perfect tool for cutting out the deck. It's much more precise and controllable than my regular circular saw. Cuts up to 7/8" deep and easily went through 3/4" plywood.
The deck was glued to the stringers, so I had to use a pry bar to get it up.
I used a dollar store butcher knife ($3/set of 3) to cut out the foam. It was just like cutting cake. I stabbed down from the top and cut.
I also coated my new cross members and deck with 50/50 antifreeze. It's part of a home-grown method to help prevent rot.
I bought my resin, cloth, mat and foam from US Composites. They seemed to be far cheaper than elsewhere.
However long you think it's going to take . . . double it. Double the money too.
bigredinohio
Active member
Could you explain further...I've never heard of that before.
justincase
Well-known member
Yeah i gotta go with Matt on this, sounds like a plan! sorry to hear about your floor! are you really going to try and spin that 26p with a 115? not being smart just asking.Put the jack on it and run it! Its been running all year with a wet floor so.......... At least you will have a base line to go on for next year.
you have all winter to worry about the bum floor.
teamhart2
Well-known member
glad you found the resto thread, hopefully itll help ya out. yea the stringer in mine from the factory was mush, and there was about an inch of foam under it in most places haha. At least the new one I have I know is attached to both the hull and the floor, is sealed up and is quite a bit burlier
Yea I was pretty sick for a week or two when I realized how bad my core was, and then again for a week or so when I realized the pad needed to be redone after Id finished all the core work
Yea I was pretty sick for a week or two when I realized how bad my core was, and then again for a week or so when I realized the pad needed to be redone after Id finished all the core work
On some boat building forum I came across a very informative post by Dave Carnell. That led me to a bunch of other posts and articles about antifreeze and its effect on rot and finally to an article written by Carnell himself.
The antifreeze is usually mixed with boric acid and cooked for maximum effect, but I'm not going through all that.
http://www.simplicityboats.com/chemorot.html
Vandalizer
Well-known member
I'm gonna see what it will do. I think 26 is too big, but it should give me a much better idea what a 24 would do. Just something to try!
justincase
Well-known member
Did you try a 23 yet?
Vandalizer
Well-known member
Can't fit a 23 Laser II, need a small hub. We'll see how the boat likes the 26, and go from there.
justincase
Well-known member
Ok cool, just wondered, i was thinking about a 25 im sure i can spin it ok, but i know i will end up buying a 23 tempest.
Will30
Well-known member
Vandalizer
Well-known member
Update!!
So after three hours, I get to see the core and where it butts up to the transom...
I guess it's kinda redundant to have all four pictures, oh well.
So, I'm pretty happy. Even the worst areas of the foam didn't seem to have much water. The stringer obviously took some damage, but just as TH2 said, the stringer sits ON TOP of a small amount of foam.
In the area where I still have foam it does have a small amount of water, but it doesn't seem to be very much. The pieces that I took out of the back of the boat weighed maybe 2# for a 1 sq ft section down to the hull. I expected it to be much heavier. I was also pretty surprised at the color, but I'm just glad it's not dark brown!
Over the winter I'll cut more of the floor out and remove more foam, then lay floor back down... but for now I'm throwing the jackplate on there to get her out again!
Thanks again for the help, I'm sure I'll need more pointers during the winter when I have to make it pretty again.
So after three hours, I get to see the core and where it butts up to the transom...
I guess it's kinda redundant to have all four pictures, oh well.
So, I'm pretty happy. Even the worst areas of the foam didn't seem to have much water. The stringer obviously took some damage, but just as TH2 said, the stringer sits ON TOP of a small amount of foam.
In the area where I still have foam it does have a small amount of water, but it doesn't seem to be very much. The pieces that I took out of the back of the boat weighed maybe 2# for a 1 sq ft section down to the hull. I expected it to be much heavier. I was also pretty surprised at the color, but I'm just glad it's not dark brown!
Over the winter I'll cut more of the floor out and remove more foam, then lay floor back down... but for now I'm throwing the jackplate on there to get her out again!
Thanks again for the help, I'm sure I'll need more pointers during the winter when I have to make it pretty again.
justincase
Well-known member
Not as bad i guess? what jackplate did you go with?
Top enticer dont feel alone I recently purchased the exact same boat in red and gold metalflake. I mounted a very strong running inline pushed a 16 rally sport to 63+. I mounted this engine on the new exticer with a 6 inch jackplate and a 22 smallear chopper 53.7. Brought the boat home and pulled the drainplug and its been draining for over a week. The boat is heavy and really don't want to attempt the job so it will get run like that. I purchased an 18 chopper and its gonna run fast to 50
good luck with the removal. Rick
good luck with the removal. Rick