The big picture on towing
JD,
I have done some research prior to your post and have come back with some of the same points raised in other post, plus a few others when considering towing.
1. Background:
I purchased a new SUV this summer and I wanted something fuel efficient (oxymoron). My wife uses the SUV on the road for commercial sales (hauling lots of samples behind the 2nd row). We do ride sharing (needed a 7 or 8 seater) and also wanted something we could use to tow the boat on a long trip once a year (not to mention pulling it in/out of the water locally).
There are multiple issues that came up related to towing and the most important is safety.
Even if your front vehicle can tow 15,000 lbs, you have to account for extra braking distance, wider turns, slower acceleration and strong cross winds affecting your drive.
2. Get your specifications:
In order to know what your limitations are, you need to do some homework.
Towing Capacity: What is the maximum weight your vehicle can tow based on the manufacturer’s specification? Note 2WD are usually not rated the same as 4WD.
Trailer with boat Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR): What is the maximum weight your trailer is designed to handle?
Actual weight of trailer with boat and gear: My boat was listed on the Checkmate web site as 3,000 lbs. Trailer is listed as 1,050 lbs for a total of 4,050. Doing some math to adjust for the bigger engine, bigger outdrive, full tank of gas (6 lbs per gallon), plus gear puts me pretty close to 4,500 lbs. If you are going long distances hauling the boat, try to leave with the boat tank empty and fill up at your destination. Seventy (70) gallons of gas weighs 420 lbs!!!
You can go to a local weighing station to find out your actual weight. In Vermont, the local dumps will charge you $30 to weigh you and give you an official certificate.
Tongue weight: This is the weight that is transferred from the trailer to the hitch. Most small towing vehicles have a limit of 500 lbs or 750 lbs. Tongue weight is a big problem with many utility trailers because people don’t think when they are loading them with all the heavy stuff closest to the hitch. Fortunately, most boat trailers are balanced so that when the boat is properly loaded (not sitting 2 feet back from where it is supposed to), the tongue weight is 10-15% of the total trailer weight. C-Hawk uses a 10% rule when they manufacture their trailers.
Gross Combined Weight Rating: Here’s a gotcha that many people do not consider. Load a small SUV with a beer cooler, food, change of clothes for a day, attach the boat, pack your 3 or 4 buddies into the SUV and head down the road to the boat launch.
If your SUV is full and has an extra 500 lbs of tongue weight, it might be close to exceeding its GVWR. The bigger issue though is that you will have definitely exceeded the Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR) maximum weight!!! This is the total weight rating for both the SUV/truck and trailer. This is usually found on page 237 of the owner’s manual. The key here is to keep gear/passengers to a MINIMUM when towing near the MAXIMUM towing capacity. Hence the suggestion to drive with the boat fuel tank empty when going on long trips, because that 300-400 lbs less of fuel could make the difference when you are loaded up with the spouse, children and gear for 1 week.
3. Manufacturer's /warranty point of view:
Manufacturer’s offer a warranty period on a vehicle often including longer warranties on the powertrain like 5 years/60,000 miles. If they find out that you exceeded the towing specs of your vehicle, they could void the warranty when your transmission fails.
Make sure you purchase a vehicle that can do the job. Trying to tow a 5,000 lbs trailer with a vehicle rated for 1,500 lbs might “seem to” work, but it can definitely do some damage.
Hybrids: I did not experience this first hand, but Hybrids are VERY BAD boat towing vehicles especially in the V6 category. The problem is that when the road is slippery (wet/leaves or ice) and you are stopped on a slight incline, when you try to move, the electric motor senses resistance and slippage as it tries to move the vehicle forward. Apparently, towing anything over 1,500 lbs and most of the smaller hybrids will literally shut down the vehicle… at a stop light, in the middle of the road… where ever you happen to be. I read a bunch of posts about this elsewhere. The local Vermont dealer said they don’t carry Hybrids in VT for that reason (just about everywhere in Vermont is a hill).
4. DMV/Police/Transport authority point of view:
There is not much enforcement of trailers towed by SUV/trucks unless you are in an accident. In the USA, there is a limitation of 6,000 lbs for GVWR for most city roadways, though I have never seen the authorities pull over the H1 Hummers in the city.
If you are in an accident, they will look over the GVWR of the trailer and truck/SUV to see if anything looks strange. They might ask you how much your boat and trailer weigh given that most boats of comparable size to Checkmates weight a LOT MORE.
If you are in an accident, they can give you a ticket for going too fast if you were doing 40 MPH in a 40 MPH zone or “following too close” ticket on account that you did NOT leave enough stopping distance when the bozo in front of you decided at the last minute to turn left without signaling his/her intentions and slammed on the brakes to wait for oncoming traffic to pass. *BANG*
5. Safety point of view:
I had my utility trailer inspected and though the tires were like new from a thread wear point of view, they said they had to be replaced because the walls of the tires were dried out/cracked from old age. That could have lead to a failure on a long trip.
Also, if towing your trailer/boat and you get a flat tire on the towing vehicle, make sure you replace a flat tire with a FULL SIZE replacement, not those “mini replacements”.
When pulling the boat out of the water or putting it in, use the lowest gear (D1) and if you have a “low-traction button” activate it. Be sure you only use the “low traction” within 200 feet of water. Driving down a highway with your low-traction button on will destroy most transmissions (towing or not towing anything). The newer vehicles don’t let you drive in any gear except D1 in low-traction. Even then, try to keep your RPM below 4,000.
If going long distances, especially places with long or steep hills, learn how to downshift when going down steep grades. Also keep the vehicle out of overdrive.
Brakes:
Most boat trailers are equipped with Hydraulic or Electric brakes. Learn how these work and make sure they are in top shape. They could save your life/vehicle. Note: most hydraulic brakes have a “back-up” position that allow you to “push the trailer back” without having the brakes lock up. Raise your hand if you have tried to back up your trailer in a bumpy area to see the trailer wheels lock as you try to go over the bump. That button/lever is a great little option… You can put your hands down now.
I am sure I have missed a bunch of things, so as the old saying goes, “If all else fails, read the manual”.