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540 EFI Build-up Thread

looks good...hope you are going to go for full Hyd steering soon !!!!
I don't think it is in the budget this year however I am not messing with changing props at all this year or going for speed runs. It will be carefully broken in and debugged first. I just want to be back on the water and going to run a 25p Rev4 for now. I am also tightening my gimbal ring and tiller arm up before motor goes back in. It is new but was replaced using the merc "plug and punch" method to tighten the top nut and I noticed it has worked loose a bit.

Boat looks good but what's up with the POS in the yard? Loose a bet?:confused:
That is my old dodge I built in High School. I once was not as smart as I am now. I need to do a little rust cover-up on the rockers and send her down the road. It is an 01 with 69k miles.
 
Got the shortblock all assembled last night minus the timing chain. Was missing the woodruff keys for the crank. Got the oil pump pickup installed (welded too) and the standard pressure spring installed. I am using the Melling Racing anti-cavitiation high volume/standard pressure pump.

Last night wound up being what can we do without $5 worth of locator pins that don't come with new blocks but aren't included in the block plug kits either. It was frustrating. I was hoping to have a long block to bring home but that will have to wait until next Tuesday as my builder is going to MIS for the big race this weekend.

Until then, I will be using my old junk block and head casting to mock up things in the engine compartment for fitment (sea strainer, fuel/water separator, etc.) and finish buffing/waxing the hull. I am making use of as much non engine time as I can so once the engine gets lowered in, it can be ready to fire.

Here are the pics of the pistons going in and the completed rotating assembly:
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Ahhhh, this thread is rolling along nicely, -- really enjoying following this build.

Great stuff Ron....
 
I almost have my engine compartment repaint/re-rigging complete. I think it turned out nicely! I mounted the Bravo Drive Fluid Reservoir on the transom along with the shift bracket to clean up the engine and make installation simpler. I installed new trim tab hydraulic lines easily enough and improved on the factory routing and hold down of wires a bit. Now, I just need to install the new bilge blower hose and it is about ready. The sea strainer is nicely mounted with a shutoff valve so it can be cleaned with boat in the water if necessary. I also installed a flush system and used full 3/4" NPT valve and fittings so I can get the most volume a garden hose can carry to run the engine on land without frying an impeller by using muffs. The sea strainer I have is way oversized but the price was right and makes a good reservoir for the sea pump. I did have to move my trim pump and one bilge blower motor a bit to make room for the strainer.

0616142117b_zpsdr8gpbyt.jpg

Here is a close-up of the strainer setup:
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I hope so. I have a few things right on the verge of being finished. I can't wait until I have everything in my own control hopefully this week and am no longer subject to the limited schedules of others.
 
You got a month to get her all finished up! you are moving right along and i think you can make it!! If not then you will have to hitch a ride for LC! :cheers:
 
Long block is almost all assembled! Was able to get the timing set, oil pump, pan, and heads on last night! We even were able to get measured for pushrods that I am ordering this morning. Should be all assembled early next week once i get the pushrods installed and studs/guideplates adjusted. My intake should be done this weekend with porting and having injector bungs welded on. EFI system should be showing up in another week I am told.

Look at these beautiful CNC runners and chambers on these AFR heads:
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Here the timing set is on:
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Oil pump and pickup installed along with windage tray (yes there are lock nuts on the windage tray now):
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Cometic MLS head gaskets going on:
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Long block is almost done, oil pan is on:
0618142141_zpssm4jgddv.jpg
 
Made some more progress this weekend. I got my fuel pump system figured out and mounted to the old factory Cool Fuel brackets. I even figured out I can use the stock Cool Fuel system cover to hide the Aeromotive pump from the Coasties. I don't think they will notice.

The Cool-ER Fuel system:
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Sneaky sneaky cover up:
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Fuel/Water separator that will get mounted to the boat versus on the engine like stock, set up to accept regulator return line:
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This will be my oil filter setup. They are two NAPA filters in parallel and are the largest ones I could find that fit the mount. Each one should hold about 3/4 of a quart. With doing full flow filtering, these will handle the flow volume well and filter nicely:
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Here is the 180 degree Oil Thermostat I will be using. Working on the plumbing and bracket setup for that and the monstrous 3"x24" oil cooler tonight:


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On Friday I was able to pick up my intake after having the fuel injector bungs machined in and welded on. Local guy I found who did a fantastic job and I had it back 3 days later:
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I spent most of Saturday with a die grinder in my hand finishing the port matching, shaping the bottoms of the injector ports, and cleaning everything up with cartridge sanding rolls. It is not perfect nor did I get ridiculous with smoothing and polishing, but I think it came out darn nice for an amateur like me:
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Things are really starting to move now. I should have my new pushrods this week and then the motor should be home with me. The EFI system components should also be arriving within the next week. Not too much longer now.
 
Coming along very nicely Ron.......

I'm curious, what are you gonna use {and recommend} for a break in oil?
If we are talking Hydraulic Roller cams.....

I am going to use 10W-30 Valvolene VR1. Good stuff and performs right up at the top in most oil tests I've read. Has a bunch of zinc and other stuff that has been stripped out of most street oils. Once broken in I will more than likely go to a 15W-40 synthetic (Valvolene or Mobile 1). My hydraulic lifters have high rpm valving and bleed out much quicker with the 10W-30 Bob tells me. You also cant go wrong with some 15W-40 Shell Rotella T oil for break in and general use period. Great endurance oil there. Mobile Delvac is similar to Rotella.

Flat tappet cams are a whole different ball game. I don't mess with those.
 
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