'85 Predictor floor coming out!

[85Predictor]

Thanks, sounds like that's the way I will go also.
I figure if I take care of the boat (Cover it) the materials you mentioned above should last a very long time.

 

[bdusted440]

Here is a good site for you http://www.fibreglast.com/
alsohttp://www.minicraft.com/

 

[Derrick]

Heres where i got my foam and epoxy i used West Systems it was easy to work with and and did a great job be sure to get the pumps it makes measuring a lot easier.I just finshed my floor and floatation box in my Inticer and Iam now installing new steering and motor.

US Composites
http://www.shopmaninc.com/index.html

 

[85Predictor]

Thanks for all of the info/links!
Below are the latest pictures. I am done ripping the old stuff out!! Need to do some shopping next.

 

[Mark]

Stringers in Mates are 3/4" ply. The floor is 1/2". You don't need any more weight than necessary. One layer of mat on each side of the floor and it will be as stong as steel and completely waterproof. Two layers on the stringers. Mat is easier to work with than cloth and a lot heavier. Invest in a glass roller though. You won't regret it. Epoxy is very expensive. The rest of the boat is polyester resin anyway.

 

[85Predictor]

Mark,
Do you mean to completly cover both sides with resin and mat? I had planned to cover both sides and ends with resin then use mat/cloth to join the new floor to the hull. But, if that is not right then I will change my plans. The floor area will only be 2' X 7.5'

Thanks!

 

[175checkmate]

Cover both sides with resin then when you lay down the floor hit the edge with a layer of matt. Make sure you get all the air out of the matt for a better bond.
When I layed down my floor I also used a small section of matt to bond the part where both sections meet. Once it had flashed I ground down the top part untill it was flush then bonded the seam with glass. I feel sorry for the person that has to take it apart in another 20 years. lol

 

[Mark]

The reason these floors rot in the first place is they are only resin-coated on the underside. Think of it this way, by the time you are done you'll have invested days of labor, why not spend an extra $50 and do it right. This is what I would do: Glass in stringer with two layers of mat. Leave the top edge bare for now. Cut a cardboard template for the floor or stringers if you need to. The stringers have to follow the curve of the hull and are not likely perfectly flat on the bottom edge. Using a straight edge make sure that your floor will come into contact with the edge all around. Glass both sides of floor using 6 oz mat and merely wet out the edges for now. Wet out two 1" strips of mat along the hull edge and on top of stringers(left bare earlier). Carefully place floor in place and weight it down so that the strips come into contact all around. Later glass seams with two 3-4" stips of mat. You now have a super stronger water-tight floor with no staples or screws to compromise the structure.

 

[85Predictor]

On vacation and getting ready to put the floor in! Was side-tracked working on a truck engine. As you can see, I do not always work. I do find time to relax. By the way, the pager on the left is not on!!
Will post pictures as I put the floor back together.

 

[Boston Predictor]

cool
looking good can't wat to see this baby back in action!
whats up with the pager? i didnt even know they still made em

 

[85Predictor]

Well where I live, the mountains and lack of towers does not make great cell phone reception!
I end up using both.

 

[illMATTic]

man i love that shine

 

[85Predictor]

Well,
Here are some updated pics.
Not done yet but getting there!
Sorry to say it will not see water this year.

I decided to use insulating rigid foam for under the floor. Did not want to pay the price for the 2-part foam but also did not want to leave it empty.

The new center beam is cedar 4"X4". A friend of mine has a portable sawmill and made this for me.

All comments are welcome!
Great site!
Thanks!

 

[175checkmate]

Looks good, a 4x4 is a bit much for a center stringer. But should be strong. Did you rember to cut holes in the cross stringers so water could pass through.
Remember to seal all wood with resin to keep the water out.

 

[85Predictor]

I will post a thread concerning drain holes for the sub-floor. Some people try to seal the sub-floor I guess to prevent water from entering through the drain hole. Others say to put in drain holes including Mike at Checkmate. I could not find evidence of a drain hole when I pulled the old floor out. I will have the Fall and Winter to ponder this issue.

Thanks!!

 

[Mark]

When I did my Starliner I left the foam out. I could have put it back in since I removed it intact. I decided if water ever got in again this way I could hear it sloshing when on my trailer instead of being absorbed by the foam. I built three water tight compartments running down length of hull. If water ever gets in I could drill in from bilge and drain it. Plus since everything is encased in fiberglass there is nothing to rot. I don't actually think it will happen however since there are no mechanical perforations thru the floor. Honestly, I don't ever want to do that job again so I took the time to make sure it was bulletproof.

 

[imaboaterg]

88 checkmate predictor here! Bone white w grey interior checkmate stripe down side w grey checkmate emblem ,turn key, mint,closed bow, sharp and sleek yamaha 115 w 23 pitch stainless, low low 70's and not for sale.4 foot chop, nothing in the water but the prop. (Watch out for the cross chop though it can be hard on the back and jewels). Aptly named Sea ya. New here and need to fill in pict still. Hard work and plenty of hours but enjoy it cause when your done youre going to look back and think it was all worth it. Cant wait to see it posted and gook luck to you! May the store gods sense your coming and post a sale before you get to their door.


Im a Boater........ G

 

[wickedrister]

Your Predictor is lookig good! Lots of hard work but it will all be worth it in the end. I left the foam out of my boat when I did the floor and stringer last winter. I wanted water to run on out if any got under the floor. The thing I didn't expect was sound of the water slapping the hull. It's really loud on choppy days at low speed. That's OK just another reason to speed up

 

[85Predictor]

After pricing a few supplies, I have decided to get an estimate to have the new floor glassed in. I will need to finish fabricating the rest of the plywood before the estimate is done. One of my options will be a non-skid surface instead of a carpet. Any thoughts on that one??? It would dry out alot faster!!

 

[Boston Predictor]

Its up to you. I would stay with the carpet however.
I would glass it myself If I were you. its not hard at all.
If you need any help let me know I have alot of experiance with glass.