'87 Predictor Resto

[LukeWilson]

Hey guys, I'm new around here and i just picked up a Predictor project last weekend. I've had my eye on the boat for as long as i can remember (since i was about 10) and it finally popped up for sale for a great price. Picked up the boat, trailer and a very clean 120 Evinrude for $1000.

Now for the bad:

1) Floor was completely shot, the P/O had tried to repair it by unloading about 36 cans of spray foam into it and covering it with carpet.

2) P/O claims the transom is solid, i have my doubts given the condition of the floor.

3) There was a 3" hole chewed through the bottom of the hull, about 2 feet from the stern. One again repaired with more spray foam and bondo.

4) 3 small patches with bad balsa.



After towing it home from the cottage 4 hours (an adventure in itself) i started stripping it out the next day. I have about 8 hours over 2 days into it so far and everything but the transom has been stripped.



Now for some pictures:

http://i.imgur.com/yRWfp.jpg

After:

Since i have about a million other projects on the go, i am trying to get this one back into usable condition asap, but i don't plan on taking shortcuts either. I don't care about the the outer aesthetics too much right now, just trying to get a solid floor in it and a decent interior.

That's all for now,


Luke

 

[Enticer1]

Core

Luke, from looking at the pic's the core looks great. Thats gonna make your restoration much easier. Nice find on a Cool boat.

 

[JT Patroni]

It probably would be good to drill a small hole in the front bulkhead close to the floor to see if there is any water in that foam. If it is ok, you can glass the hole shut. If you find water, now is the time to remove the bulkhead and the wet foam.

 

[Melvin]

Congrats on you rig. Ill be following your build. I too picked up an 87 predictor w/ a 120 this year.

 

[LukeWilson]

I think the foam is good, but you're right, now's the time to check. It took me about 4 hours to remove the foam under the bow because it wasn't water logged and soft.

I think putting some floatation boxes back in is probably a good idea. If i were to only put them in the back corners like stock, would that be enough or do i need to do the floor as well?

While i think of it, i am looking for a new prop because mine is pretty mangled. The P/O claimed the boat has done 65 mph, but i highly doubt that with no jackplate and a 13x19 prop. If i am looking for an all around prop, would a 21P work alright?


Thanks,

Luke

 

[Melvin]

I highly doubt 65. My 120 on my predictor with a 20 raker was good for 55 gps. Two people loaded down.

 

[Rob B]

I think the foam is good, but you're right, now's the time to check. It took me about 4 hours to remove the foam under the bow because it wasn't water logged and soft.

I think putting some floatation boxes back in is probably a good idea. If i were to only put them in the back corners like stock, would that be enough or do i need to do the floor as well?

While i think of it, i am looking for a new prop because mine is pretty mangled. The P/O claimed the boat has done 65 mph, but i highly doubt that with no jackplate and a 13x19 prop. If i am looking for an all around prop, would a 21P work alright?


Thanks,

Luke

The floatation boxes should be good enough. I removed the boxes and the floor foam on the Pulse170 resto and didn't add it back. I left the foam underneath the gunnels for floatation.

 

[LukeWilson]

Well the transom is coming out next, i was kinda thinking it would be given the condition of the floor. I think the general consensus is to split the cap off of the hull to get to the transom, i think i'd rather do that then fight with it the whole time. It might be a couple weeks till i get there as i'm trying to finish some trim work on my cedar strip so i can sell it.

My motor has a doel-fin hydrofoil on it, assuming i am running a modest prop and no jack plate, should i keep it or not?



Thanks,

Lucas

 

[TimSki$]

I am currently doing the transom on my Enticer, which is the same hull as your Predictor, and I did not split the deck from the hull. I cut out the splash well to get to the top part of the transom. I did not feel like splitting the boat, but I will have to fiberglass it back together. I did not have any trouble getting the transom out, but mine was pretty wet. Good luck!

 

[LukeWilson]

Started drilling out the rivets holding the boat together tonight. It went fairly quick and easy, just a few left.

Some questions:

I've done some searching and i still can't find an answer about rub rail. Mine was baby blue and beat up pretty bad, so i need to get a new strip for the re-assembly. I haven't been able to find an exact profile match, any suggestions?

Here's what i've found:
http://www.iboats.com/15-16-x-3-8-F...2585890--session_id.677930014--view_id.271929

What rivets should i use to stick it back together? They don't look like standard pop-rivets.


Next thing, how structural is the floor and rear foam boxes? I was thinking about doing something a little different for the floor, but if it is a structural member i'll just replace what came out (minus all the the spray foam).

Thanks guys,

Luke

 

[JT Patroni]

Rub rail replacement

Try giving Mike at the factory a call. There is a good chance that
they can sell you the insert you need.
As for the rivets. I replaced mine with #10-24 stainless steel flat head machine screws. Cost a little more than rivets, but easier to buy.

 

[jbodensteiner]

Luke,

I'm jealous! I'm looking for a Predictor right now, but don't have the guts (or knowledge) to attempt a full restoration. It looks like your making great progress. Best of luck!

Joe

 

[LukeWilson]

Thanks! Sometimes you have to just dig in and learn along the way, this forum has a huge amount of knowledgeable and talented people to help you along. To be honest this is my first big fiberglass project, i have only done small jobs before this. Fairly new to boats too, i do have about 400 hours into a full restoration on a cedar strip runabout though.


Also found some rivets i think will work:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#rivets/=cjrt0w

The ones for "soft material" look exactly like what came out of the boat. I think i might give them a shot.



More to come!

Luke

 

[LukeWilson]

Update:

I've been picking away at the boat as much as i can, I'm trying to split my time between a bunch of projects i have on the go. I finally borrowed an engine hoist to lift the engine off and split the hull. I ended up using a small floor jack to lift pop the top half off at the back of the splash well, the bondo-ish stuff was really holding it together. Cutting the transom out took a fair bit of work, i think it took me about 4 hours once i got to it. It wasn't anywhere near as bad as some peoples have been, but now is the time and it will give me some piece of mind. I cut the wood for the transom tonight, hopefully i'll get it finish sanded tomorrow and get some resin on it.

Sorry for the crappy pictures, I was getting eaten alive by mosquito's.

And i tried buffing a section on the bow with some swirl remover at 2000 rpm, really brought some of the shine back:

More updates in a few days, so far it's been going pretty well.


Luke

 

[mikestrobe201]

That blue is gonna look awesome on the water

 

[LukeWilson]

Update:

I have a lot to learn about fiberglassing. I cut and fit the new transom, stuck the two halves together with PL premium construction adhesive and screwed it all together with stainless screws. I wanted to encapsulate the transom with fiberglass before i put it in the boat so i attempted to use some fairly heavy mat. I did get it down, but i used a pile of resin and it was a huge pain in the butt to work with. From a little bit of reading, i should be using fiberglass cloth as it is stronger and will wet out easier. Thoughts?




Some questions:

1. If i want to encapsulate all of the wood before i glass it into the boat, can i just give it a coat of straight resin or should i put at least a layer of glass with it?

2. How structural is the plywood floor?

3. What is the correct way of sealing holes after running screws into wood that has been glassed or where the drain plugs are?



Thanks guys, I'm getting there slowly but surely.


Luke

 

[atc250r]

Whenever I put a screw into the boat that is anywhere that has even a slight chance of getting wet I put a sealer like 4200 on the threads and/or in the hole. I took some of the screws out of some stuff inside the boat but near the transom and before they went back in they all got sealant put on them.

John

 

[JT Patroni]

I used 4oz glass tape and covered any screw holes with that. I was careful to keep the head of the screws flush with the top of the wood.

 

[bigredinohio]

Update:

I have a lot to learn about fiberglassing. I cut and fit the new transom, stuck the two halves together with PL premium construction adhesive and screwed it all together with stainless screws. I wanted to encapsulate the transom with fiberglass before i put it in the boat so i attempted to use some fairly heavy mat. I did get it down, but i used a pile of resin and it was a huge pain in the butt to work with. From a little bit of reading, i should be using fiberglass cloth as it is stronger and will wet out easier. Thoughts?

Some questions:

1. If i want to encapsulate all of the wood before i glass it into the boat, can i just give it a coat of straight resin or should i put at least a layer of glass with it?

2. How structural is the plywood floor?

3. What is the correct way of sealing holes after running screws into wood that has been glassed or where the drain plugs are?


Thanks guys, I'm getting there slowly but surely.

Luke

I would add a layer of glass to your wood to encapsulate. It doesn't have to be a heavy glass but if you are going to add the resin, why not take the extra step to add the glass. I used a 9 oz. cloth with epoxy or used 1.5 oz mat with poly.

A little trick with fiberglassing (especially with mat) is to wet out your wood with the resin, then wet out the fiberglass on a piece of wax paper then transfer the fiberglass to the wood and check on it until it cures. Mix up only enough resin that you're comfortable with otherwise it could cure on you too fast and you run the risk of making a mess which will require extra sanding.

I removed all my screws before glassing and filled the holes in with either PL Premo or peanut butter (thickened resin). For my drain plug, I'm going to use 3M 5200.

 

[LukeWilson]

Thanks for the advice guys.

I'll try and get some more pictures up tomorrow, i got the transom glassed in and the floor supports built and glassed out of the boat. Hopefully going to get the floor support glassed in tomorrow. I found the cheapest place to buy resin was at Lowes, its $35 a gallon for 3M polyester resin.

On another note, i have decided to reupholster the interior. The seat bases were all rotten and the covers aren't great, so i figure its kind of a waste of time to fix the bases without doing the covers. I am going to give it a shot myself, i have done small stuff before so hopefully i can pull it off. I found some nice heavy marine vinyl in the clearance racks at jo ann fabrics for $3 a yard. I'm going to do plain white seats with navy blue piping. I'm going with KISS on this one.

Pics soon,


Luke