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'88 Starflite Resto (SOLD)

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BADBK

BADBK

Well-known member
Thought I'd consolidate to all one thread.... :o

Time to put it in gear, gotta get it done by spring.

Here it is when I brought it home.

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Starting ripping stuff out, seeing what I got myself into.
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Rubrail off... what a PITA...
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Rub rail off, transom area
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Floor out.
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Transom removal
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Transom OUT!! Whole bunch of awesomeness! :brickwall:IMAG0580.jpg
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Tools very helpful in the removal process... Skill saw a MUST. RotoZip saw helped a bit, pry bar, big fuggin hammers, air chisel was also pretty useful.
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When removing the transom cmpulse170 told me to try to "pop" or seperate the rear skin from the transom. Worked AWESOME, thanks cmpulse170! Put 1/4" wood shims in, set the skill saw and made it work! I did a lot of extra work trying to chip it out, next one would be muuuuch easier!
 
Splitting the boat was pretty tough too, I chipped, scraped, chiseled, etc trying to get it split. I finally had enough pissing around.... got my floor jack and braced it in, lifted up on the splashwell w/big 2x8's. POP! Did the trick.
 
Sam I am said:
Are you going to make it a lipless splash well?
Click to expand...

I've asked myself that a dozen times.... what's a little more a$$ pain/work eh?

Don't know quite yet.

Also not sure what I'm going to do ply vs. composite. 520 miles one way to fargo.... 16-20 hrs rd/trip. Did you see if they had any more 2" 30 lb pieces and 1/2" 5x10's?
 
Glad it work out for ya!!!:thumb: I should have told you to cut the glass inside the transom with a cut off tool.:o That way the only thing holding the transom against the skin was the glue. Those wood wedges come in handy when trying to remove the transom.
 
BADBK said:
I've asked myself that a dozen times.... what's a little more a$$ pain/work eh?

Don't know quite yet.

Also not sure what I'm going to do ply vs. composite. 520 miles one way to fargo.... 16-20 hrs rd/trip. Did you see if they had any more 2" 30 lb pieces and 1/2" 5x10's?
Click to expand...

I can look for you. I won't be able to until Friday. After that I'm gone for 2 weeks again.
 
Keep it Going!

BADBK, keep going!!
Here is my thread from years ago......
http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10477
And that is where it still sits today:(.

I'm fixing it this year for sure (yea, right).

Tell me about the "popping the transom" trick? I wasn't going to replace mine but I think I might have to after looking at yours.
Also, what are you going to do with the spider cracks, i have a ton on the top of mine. Are you going to paint it or try and bring it back to life as is?
Take lots of pics
Thanks for the motivation!
 
Sam I am said:
I can look for you. I won't be able to until Friday. After that I'm gone for 2 weeks again.
Click to expand...

Would be great if you had a few extra minutes to check it out, if not, no biggie.

pony3xp said:
BADBK, keep going!!
Here is my thread from years ago......
http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10477
And that is where it still sits today:(.

I'm fixing it this year for sure (yea, right).

Tell me about the "popping the transom" trick? I wasn't going to replace mine but I think I might have to after looking at yours.
Also, what are you going to do with the spider cracks, i have a ton on the top of mine. Are you going to paint it or try and bring it back to life as is?
Take lots of pics
Thanks for the motivation!
Click to expand...

Scrape/chisel as much deck/hull putty out/away as you can, put a floor jack in it, jack up on the splash well gently using some plywood and 2x8's to spread the load and give'r hell! I jacked mine up and down a few times out of concern I was going to make myself more work, but gave it one extra pump and it popped right off.

I'm going to dremel out the spider cracks to 1/4" - 1/2" width then fill with either dyna-glass or west system 410. Anyone recommend either or?

It will be a full custom paint. I'm going to give metal flake a shot, wish me luck!
 
Forgot how awesome grinding fiberglass, putty and funk was... 4 1/2" grinder with 36 grit wheel sure helps get the job done though!

More work/pics tomorrow.
 
BADBK said:
Forgot how awesome grinding fiberglass, putty and funk was... 4 1/2" grinder with 36 grit wheel sure helps get the job done though!

More work/pics tomorrow.
Click to expand...

Been there done that!!!! :D The 36 grit makes quick work when grinding!!:thumb: You got a good respirator?
 
cmpulse170 said:
Been there done that!!!! :D The 36 grit makes quick work when grinding!!:thumb: You got a good respirator?
Click to expand...

On order yes... :shakehead: I use the el cheapo paper masks but have a well ventilated garage along with a shop vac going strategically placed to try and eliminate a lot of the dust.

cmpulse170 said:
Forgot to ask did your boat have those floatation boxes in the back corners?
Click to expand...

Since I have no idea what that is, I'm guessing no.... :rof:
 
BADBK said:
On order yes... :shakehead: I use the el cheapo paper masks but have a well ventilated garage along with a shop vac going strategically placed to try and eliminate a lot of the dust.



Since I have no idea what that is, I'm guessing no.... :rof:
Click to expand...

Looking at the pictures again it seems your boat didn't have them. The boxes were located in the corner of transom and hull filled with foam. They held water because of not having tops. I think the smaller boats have them.
 
BADBK said:
I'm going to dremel out the spider cracks to 1/4" - 1/2" width then fill with either dyna-glass or west system 410. Anyone recommend either or?
Click to expand...

You're doing a great job!

I would recommend that you add some glass reinforcement on the back side of the cracks to help prevent them from coming back. I haven't used any of the products you listed above so I can't offer an opinion.
 
Badbk have you removed you windshield yet is so can you explain how I'm in the middle of the same build
 
Itchy itchy itchy...

Transom ground out, few more spots need a little more attention and will be ready to start glue'n. Most of the floor has been ground clean as well. Dirtiest part is almost over :)

transom.jpg

Transom2.jpg

Transom3.jpg
 
cracks in the glass

BADBK said:
Would be great if you had a few extra minutes to check it out, if not, no biggie.



Scrape/chisel as much deck/hull putty out/away as you can, put a floor jack in it, jack up on the splash well gently using some plywood and 2x8's to spread the load and give'r hell! I jacked mine up and down a few times out of concern I was going to make myself more work, but gave it one extra pump and it popped right off.

I'm going to dremel out the spider cracks to 1/4" - 1/2" width then fill with either dyna-glass or west system 410. Anyone recommend either or?

It will be a full custom paint. I'm going to give metal flake a shot, wish me luck!
Click to expand...

Hi im restoring my 86 Starflite and this is a issue of mine as well, are cracks in the gel coat or do they go through into the fiberglass, I have no clue to this or the method of repairing them on my boat, was going to sand them down and use bondow glass will this work? any info would help and I plan to re-gel coat the entire boat, never done it befor so any info would be of great help, thanks.
 
windshield

berto said:
Badbk have you removed you windshield yet is so can you explain how I'm in the middle of the same build
Click to expand...

I have a 86 Starflite I am rebuilding, My first rebuild, do you need to know to remove the glass or the entire windshield? on mine the left side glass was broke, under the bottom of the frame there are mounting bolts that go through the top half of the boat and are secured by nuts, half of mine were rusted out and I had to use a dremel to grind them down to the bolts, I then used a putty knife to seperate the two way tape under the entire windshield, it is hinged in half so I pulled mine off in two pieces, to remove the glass that was broke, I had to remove the 1 screw to seperate the front half from the side that is hinged as well, if you have caulking it will have to be removed as well as the rivets will to there are glass shims in the frame that come out easy, hope this helps.
 
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