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Engine height on 2400

Mercaholic

Mercaholic

New member
Hi all,
I'm rigging my new 2400 BRX. I have everything done on the boat and still working on the motor. I have a Detwiler hydraulic jackplate mounted as high as it would go on the transom. When it comes time to mount the motor I'd like to make certain I mount it high enough, but not too high that I'll have problems pulling slalom skiers out of the water. What's the highest that the 2400 likes to run at? Also, should I plug some of the water pickup holes?.. I have a 300HP Verado so it has the front-water pickups.

thanks much.
 
Mercaholic said:
Hi all,
I'm rigging my new 2400 BRX. I have everything done on the boat and still working on the motor. I have a Detwiler hydraulic jackplate mounted as high as it would go on the transom. When it comes time to mount the motor I'd like to make certain I mount it high enough, but not too high that I'll have problems pulling slalom skiers out of the water. What's the highest that the 2400 likes to run at? Also, should I plug some of the water pickup holes?.. I have a 300HP Verado so it has the front-water pickups.

thanks much.
Click to expand...

Randy (wildman) rigs his at 3" below the v-pad from centerline of prop.
 
With that jack plate you will be able to see where it likes to run best while on the fly. My guess is it will be around the 3" below area. I never measured mine after as i move it up and down all the time. I know it is a lot lower than i thought it woud be. The sweet spot is likely to change depending on load also. I like to air mine out at around 55mph and move the motor up and down at the same throttle setting to find the where it likes it the best(most mph) and let her eat from there.
 
I had a hyd plate on my first one. Raising the motor higher than 3" above the bottom just slows it down. If the motor is too high, the prop looses bite and drops the nose which then slows the boat down. It won't "fly" like a 21 will.
 
Based on what I've read here I'm thinking of mounting it so that at it's highest it will be even with the keel. For top speed that will be too high but it may come in handy in shallow water (at no wake speeds). Then for pulling skiers and tackling real rough water I can put it as low as 5.5" below the keel. Is that low enough? Finally, by avoiding having the jackplate fully extended when the loads are highest (WOT) the stresses in the jackplate will be lower.
Also, any thoughts on plugging some of the gills in the gearcase?

thanks all for the feedback!!
 
You should mount it so that with it fully down, it's about 3.5" below the bottom. 5.5" is too much. Also, by having it higher, you won't need to tilt the motor up much to tow it.
 
I have a manual plate on mine and I run the prop centerline right at 3" below the bottom. I have no problem whatsoever pulling out a double high-wrap slalom skier.
 
88Mate said:
I have a manual plate on mine and I run the prop centerline right at 3" below the bottom. I have no problem whatsoever pulling out a double high-wrap slalom skier.
Click to expand...

That's pretty amazing... I think... I don't know what double high-wrap means, but since you said slalom skier and 3" below the bottom I am impressed that the prop didn't vent.

Another question has come up thanks to a friend of mine: at this height will I need a thicker prop shaft than the standard Verado?

thanks.
 
WILDMAN said:
A Verado does not come with the fat propshaft.
Click to expand...

There's an HD version available on the 300 that has a 1.25 propshaft and 1.75 gears. I can't imagine there would be need for that since this height isn't really any different than what bass boats run at.
 
Mercaholic said:
Based on what I've read here I'm thinking of mounting it so that at it's highest it will be even with the keel. For top speed that will be too high but it may come in handy in shallow water (at no wake speeds). Then for pulling skiers and tackling real rough water I can put it as low as 5.5" below the keel. Is that low enough? Finally, by avoiding having the jackplate fully extended when the loads are highest (WOT) the stresses in the jackplate will be lower.
Also, any thoughts on plugging some of the gills in the gearcase?

thanks all for the feedback!!
Click to expand...

Although 3" below will likely work for almost everything, if you can rig from even to 5.5" under that is what I would do. You will never go that high but you might want to go that low. Here's why. The Verado is already very quiet but they do get louder when the motor is higher as it is exhausting above the water. Burying the prop can quiet it right down when out for a family cruise.
 
88Mate said:
I have a manual plate on mine and I run the prop centerline right at 3" below the bottom. I have no problem whatsoever pulling out a double high-wrap slalom skier.
Click to expand...

Mercaholic said:
That's pretty amazing... I think... I don't know what double high-wrap means, but since you said slalom skier and 3" below the bottom I am impressed that the prop didn't vent.

Another question has come up thanks to a friend of mine: at this height will I need a thicker prop shaft than the standard Verado?

thanks.
Click to expand...


I assume he's talking about a type of slalom ski. Front and rear boots as opposed to a rear toe.
 
Mark said:
Although 3" below will likely work for almost everything, if you can rig from even to 5.5" under that is what I would do. You will never go that high but you might want to go that low. Here's why. The Verado is already very quiet but they do get louder when the motor is higher as it is exhausting above the water. Burying the prop can quiet it right down when out for a family cruise.
Click to expand...

Nice catch. I forget if it's the 4 cyl or 6 cyl Verado (or both) that dumps the thermostat dump water (and with it some exhaust) out just above the gearcase. This bowrider is intended for 90+% family use... even when it's in the driveway.
 
Last edited:
MindBLOWER is correct. Double high-wraps refer to a ski that has two boots on it, as opposed to a boot in front and the tow loop in the rear like you would see on one of the skis in a combo pair. It takes much more grunt to get a competition type slalom with the boots out of the hole because it forces the skiers weight back farther tipping the ski straighter-up. Sorry for the confusion.
 
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