Setting up a new Pulsare 2100

[PA-Checkmate]

If all works out next spring I will be getting a new Pulsare 2100 and starting with my 300xs w/1.62 sportmaster what would be a good setup?


1- hydraulic jack plate 6 or 10inch?
2- hydraulic steering- which cylinder does checkmate use?
3- how high to run the SM above/below the pad?
4-Props I currently have, has anyone ran them and what were the results?
14.5 x 28 merc ET 3 blade
14.5 x 28 merc pro ET
14.5 x 28 Drag-4
14.5 x 30 merc lab cleaver
5- what speed shold I see?
6- open for other suggestions

 

[JUPITER PULSARE]

PA, You will run better with at least 12 inches of setback. Buy a 6" setback bracket and a 6" Hyd. jackplate for a total of 12 inches..you could even do an 8" bracket for 14" of setback (even better). Some people buy 10 inch jackplates but I believe in using the largest setback bracket with the least amount of jackplate setback (less torque movement in the jackplate). Stainless Marine makes a great 7" negative tuck setback bracket with a splash deflector that fits their 4" Gorilla Jackplate perfectly...that's what I would use with a 300. Seastar Pro steering with the 6345 ram will be more than sufficient. The Pulsares run well with Trophy Plus props and choppers. I've had some good success with DAH choppers.

 

[BagMan]

Get it from Wildman, have him rig it, and throw your motor on back, can't go wrong. Heck, you could even pick it up on Spring Break and enjoy the Daytona "sight seeing"...

 

[Check This]

Get it from Wildman, have him rig it, and throw your motor on back, can't go wrong. Heck, you could even pick it up on Spring Break and enjoy the Daytona "sight seeing"...

You can buy the boat cheaper from him then you could from the factory. I am about to order my new one from him. As I said before anytime you order from dealer out of state you have to handle al warrantee issues yourself.

 

[hotbeek]

These are "MY" 2100 recommendations. 2400 would be a different animal(not familiar with the best setups for these)

1.) I agree with Jup on the bracket+jackplate. Did I mention I have an 8" Heavy Duty Hydro Dynamics bracket for sale (perfect for the Pulsare) I would shoot for 12"-15" range for setback. As Jup stated keep a small hydraulic+larger bracket.

2.) Mines rigged with a Sea Star Pro hydraulic cylinder and helm. I'm sure there's other out there.

3.) Myself and other Pulsare owners seem to be getting some very good results in the 1"-1 3/4" ABOVE pad range.(All depends on setback, low water pickups, prop etc.)

4.) I'm pretty sure Bluehealer here had produced some good topend speed numbers with the Pro ET but they seem to be prone to throwing blades. I have got my best speeds with a stock Turbo TXP OT4 29. I turn some 1.75's to 6100+ for 89.6mph GPS. I'm sure with a lab job it will be in the low 90's.

5.) You should expect to see speeds in the 88-92 range when dialed in.

6.) I know Eric Simon has some tricks for the 300XS. I'm sure he'll have more in the next year. Spend some time in the seat. These boats can be a handfull(chinewalking) when speeds reach the 70+ range.

 

[ROLAND]

I purchased a 21 Pulsare with a 225 optimax. 25 pitch 3 blade Temptist plus.Hyd steering. 2007 model. The boat has a factory manual jack plate 6" .With the nose of the lower unit a 1.5 below the pad it runs 63 MPH, above 63 the boat chine walks terrible. It will make your butt pucker. I was thinking about additional set back of 6" between the jack and transom but dont want any porpus at low speed {pulling my kid on a knee board etc.}. Any body have any advice. Thething is a dream to drive until 60MPH. Then gets scarry. I cant picture getting full use of a 300xs on this boat as others have mentioned.

 

[WILDMAN]

Roland, if your boat chinewalks at 63, then it's setup very wrong. 70 should be very easy to drive, and a top end of 74-75 is normal with a 225 Opti.

 

[JUPITER PULSARE]

I purchased a 21 Pulsare with a 225 optimax. 25 pitch 3 blade Temptist plus. 2007 model. The boat has a factory manual jack plate 6" .With the nose of the lower unit a 1.5 below the pad it runs 63 MPH, above 63 the boat chine walks terrible. It will make your butt pucker. I was thinking about additional set back of 6" between the jack and transom but dont want any porpus at low speed {pulling my kid on a knee board etc.}. Any body have any advice. Thething is a dream to drive until 60MPH. Then gets scarry. I cant picture getting full use of a 300xs on this boat as others have mentioned.

Roland, I've been right where you're at with my Pulsare a couple of years ago. You need about 12" of setback and your jackplate should be hydralic so you can take advantage of the optimum settings. I also have a Tempest Plus 25 and it's a chine walking banshee!!! (although I haven't tried it since I increased my setback to 13.5") Try a Trophy Plus 26, increase your setback to at least 12", make sure you have tight steering (SeaStar Pro hyd. steering helps alot). You'll find big gains in top end and overall performance. I've GPS'd my boat at 77.0 MPH with a stock 225 XRi (full tank/two adults), Trophy Plus 26, 13.5" setback...

 

[ROLAND]

Roland, I've been right where you're at with my Pulsare a couple of years ago. You need about 12" of setback and your jackplate should be hydralic so you can take advantage of the optimum settings. I also have a Tempest Plus 25 and it's a chine walking banshee!!! (although I haven't tried it since I increased my setback to 13.5") Try a Trophy Plus 26, increase your setback to at least 12", make sure you have tight steering (SeaStar Pro hyd. steering helps alot). You'll find big gains in top end and overall performance. I've GPS'd my boat at 77.0 MPH with a stock 225 XRi (full tank/two adults), Trophy Plus 26, 13.5" setback...

I borrwed a 25 trophy 4 blade with the current set up of 6" set back at 1.5 below pad at nose cone. It didnt help. Randy "wild man" seems to be running 12-14 set back where I have 6". The set back and adding hydro jack may help top end but before spending another $1500 how will this effect low speed around 22-25 mph, will the boat porpus ? Still trying to keep family happy at knee board and tube speeds also.

 

[JUPITER PULSARE]

I borrwed a 25 trophy 4 blade with the current set up of 6" set back at 1.5 below pad at nose cone. It didnt help. Randy "wild man" seems to be running 12-14 set back where I have 6". The set back and adding hydro jack may help top end but before spending another $1500 how will this effect low speed around 22-25 mph, will the boat porpus ? Still trying to keep family happy at knee board and tube speeds also.

I've had no ill effects at all with the additional setback...any "bouncing" can be corrected with the trim and jackplate settings. Spend the money and do it right...you'll enjoy the results!

 

[WILDMAN]

If you're running a 225, then a jacking the motor up will make minimal speed difference. Additional setback and a Trophy will help handling alot.

 

[eboch]

Roland;

I have the same problem. Pulsare 2100 with 225 promax, Sportmaster LU, Seastar, 6" hydraulic jack. with a Tempest+ 25 It'll start chine walking in the high 60mph range. I've had it to ~ 74 mph with 2 equal sized adults. Seems to need to be just perfectly balanced. I've been out for hours trying to find the trim/jack sweet-spot combo ... no success. I have a 24P Trophy+ on there now ... doesn't change a thing as far as the chine walking goes ... albeit this prop is noticably better out of the hole than the Tempest.

I've been thinking about adding setback.

eboch

 

[claupie]

Roland;

I have the same problem. Pulsare 2100 with 225 promax, Sportmaster LU, Seastar, 6" hydraulic jack. with a Tempest+ 25 It'll start chine walking in the high 60mph range. I've had it to ~ 74 mph with 2 equal sized adults. Seems to need to be just perfectly balanced. I've been out for hours trying to find the trim/jack sweet-spot combo ... no success. I have a 24P Trophy+ on there now ... doesn't change a thing as far as the chine walking goes ... albeit this prop is noticably better out of the hole than the Tempest.

I've been thinking about adding setback.

eboch

more set back would definatly help a lot..I have 10 in on mine,it will chinewalk in the mid 70's (but not very bad)..12 to 14 in would be better handling..

 

[eboch]

Wildman;

Can you explain a bit more about why more set-back will help out with a chine walking problem on the 2100 Pulsare hull? not sure i understand this.

Thanks
eboch

PS: I put Smarttabs (with adjustable extensions) on this hull ... thinking that it would help the hull to balance when its right up on the pad ... to reduce the chine walking .... it did nothing for the chine walking ... but did improve the holeshot.

 

[WILDMAN]

If you have a 5" setback, your gearcase is about 2ft from the back of the boat. That means the boat can pivot, or chinewalk, side to side on a 2ft fulcrum. If you extend it back 10 more inches, then it can't pivot as easily on a 2ft 10" fulcrum, or axis. I'll try to think of a good analogy, but I drank too much at dinner tonight. I'll think of it later!

 

[Sam I am]

If you have a 5" setback, your gearcase is about 2ft from the back of the boat. That means the boat can pivot, or chinewalk, side to side on a 2ft fulcrum. If you extend it back 10 more inches, then it can't pivot as easily on a 2ft 10" fulcrum, or axis. I'll try to think of a good analogy, but I drank too much at dinner tonight. I'll think of it later!

I will in no way pretend to know what I'm talking about, but that theory stands up to basic physics. The chine walk is being caused by a force that is being exerted on the hull. That force is a result of the Torque being produced by the motor on the hull. The motor makes a fixed amount of torque (given a constant throttle setting, assume WOT) and the basic torque equation is Torque = Force X Distance. So if you derive the Force component of that equation you get Force = Torque/Distance. So the only way you're going to make Force smaller is to divide it by a bigger number (larger distance...MORE SETBACK.)

The above is a very simplified version of what's happening, but I think it's solid. Also, that would explain why at certain speeds (think throttle settings) the mass of your hull, basic steering skeg forces and other forces like friction between the water and the hull are enough to over come the force from the torque and keep the hull tracking straight and stable. But when you get to a certain speed (once again, think power setting) the torque being generated is enough to produce a force that can overcome all that other stuff and make the hull move...chine walk.

I hadn't put the connection together until I read Wildman's post. Then again I might be AFU.

 

[Sam I am]

Which leads to another question...

...I only have 6" of setback on my 2000 Pulsare with the 225 Pro XS and it chine walked like a Mo-Fo. Pretty scary really. So, if I simply add another 4 inches of set back with a bracket, should the order from the transom be Setback bracket, jackplate, motor or Jackplate, set back bracket, motor? I think the first? Other wise the force on the jackplate might not let it function. Of course the easiest answer (also most expensive) is to get a 10 or 12 inch jackplate.

 

[Sam I am]

Found some good info...

...on chine walking in another thread.

http://www.bassboatcentral.com/new_page_2.htm

 

[JUPITER PULSARE]

The least complicted way to improve the Chinewalk would be to install one of the new "all in one" 12 inch hyd. jackplates. Setback will help the handling quite a bit. Chinewalking happens for many reasons...the first is the torque of the prop trying to turn the boat on it's side and knocking it off the pad. Loose steering can also contribute to chinewalk. Having solid motor mounts to prevent the motor from moving back and forth will also help control chinewalk.

 

[xsive]

...I only have 6" of setback on my 2000 Pulsare with the 225 Pro XS and it chine walked like a Mo-Fo. Pretty scary really. So, if I simply add another 4 inches of set back with a bracket, should the order from the transom be Setback bracket, jackplate, motor or Jackplate, set back bracket, motor? I think the first? Other wise the force on the jackplate might not let it function. Of course the easiest answer (also most expensive) is to get a 10 or 12 inch jackplate.

Sam,

Simply buy the 4" extension that Hydrodynamics makes. I've attached a link. If it chine walks badly, your motor is too deep. This is especially true if your are running a tempest plus. I have helped people set up a few Pulsares with these and they work well. If you have any questions PM me your number and I'll call you. I am in Winnipeg.

http://hydrodynamics-usa.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=27&Itemid=49